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Forum topic by Pete Mohr | posted 07-27-2010 03:47 PM | 7353 views | 0 times favorited | 19 replies | ![]() |
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07-27-2010 03:47 PM |
Does the quality of alcohol make a difference in dissolving shellac flakes? I’ve been using DNA from the BORG and have gotten poor results. (as in the flakes don’t dissolve thoroughly). I’ve ground the flakes and stirred regularly, but no go. I don’t know if it’s the flakes or the alcohol. Woodcraft sells “Pure Anhydrous Alcohol. Is it worth the extra $$$ (14.99/qt)? pete -- "Man is so made that he can only find relaxation from one kind of labor by taking up another." -Anatole France |
19 replies so far
#1 posted 07-27-2010 03:57 PM |
I put mine in a mason jar and shake the living heck out of it, on and off for about an hour or so. Sometimes those flakes (I grind mine in a coffee grinder first) don’t want to dissolve… Keep at it, they’ll go eventually (as long as the shellac is fresh). As far as I know, you can use any sufficiently pure alcohol – even Everclear (it’ll just cost you twice as much in taxes!). Your DNA should be fine (as long as you’re talking about Denatured Alcohol… I’m in no position to judge your deoxyribonucleic acid… lol). |
#2 posted 07-27-2010 04:15 PM |
Alcohol is hard to come by in Canada, at least the shellac mixing kind. I successfully use Methyl Hydrate that I get at the local hardware store. I too use a coffee grinder on the flakes first. Mix up a 1# cut in a mason jar, shake it up every once in a while, by the next day it is all disolved. -- my blog: http://watertoneworkshop.blogspot.ca/ my You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA?view_as=subscriber |
#3 posted 07-27-2010 05:21 PM |
The shellac resolves slowly in alcohol. It may take couple of days for it to resolve completely. In Canada, I buy Isopropyl alcohol 99% to mix the shellac. They don’t sell DNA in Alberta but Methyl Hydrate (much more toxic) is readily available. |
#4 posted 07-27-2010 05:33 PM |
ive never actually done this, but I’m also a chemical engineer, so i know something about solvents: make sure the alcohol you get from the borg is close to 100%. usually the balance is water, so if it’s 70% you might have problems. they should all be adequate grades for shellac, since impurities just tend to be other volatiles in very small amounts. usually other types of alcohols like methanol, propanol and butanol, all of which will work just fine with shellac. |
#5 posted 07-27-2010 11:41 PM |
In Canada, methyl hydrate is the same as methanol (wood alcohol). Denatured alcohol will work well as long as the water count is very low. A blended ethanol, with other alcohols, product for shellac is available under the name Behlen Behkol. -- 温故知新 |
#6 posted 07-28-2010 02:38 AM |
I use denatured alcohol, but even though it appears to disolve quickly, it does take a bit. I usually shake it up good, then let it sit for a day or so before using. Then mix well again just before applying. -- Wayne - Plymouth MN |
#7 posted 07-28-2010 03:10 PM |
I echo the 99% Isopropyl, but it can be difficult to get. Last time I used shellac flakes I ground them using a mortar & pestle. Great way to use an old turning project! -- Alan Van Art |
#8 posted 07-28-2010 03:22 PM |
I use the Behlen product but any denatured alcohol works for me. I (like others) grind the flakes in a coffee grinder. Shake the jar several times over 24 hours. -- Bruce from Central New York...now, if you'll pardon me, I have some sawdust to make. |
#9 posted 07-28-2010 03:27 PM |
Pete, standard DNA is likely ~95% ethanol, with the balance being water with a few other alcohols (like AaronK said). This is because most industrial alcohol is made from corn (or sugar cane, etc.), and it takes extra processing to remove the last 5% of water, which adds cost (I’m a chemical engineer, too). The anhydrous ethanol shouldn’t have a much different effect as a shellac solvent. |
#10 posted 07-28-2010 03:49 PM |
i use everclear or some local moonshine to mix mine,no water in that alcohol so all the shellac desolves.it does cost alittle more but seems to work better. -- Roper - Master of sawdust- www.roperwoodturning.com |
#11 posted 07-28-2010 05:00 PM |
Actually, Everclear and moonshine typically will have higher water content than industrial alcohol, especially moonshine. Through conventional distillation, you can’t get more pure than ~95% ethanol. To do better than that, you need something to ‘break the azeotrope’ – get the water to come out, if you will. |
#12 posted 07-28-2010 08:48 PM |
I have had excellent results with the denatured alcohol they sell in the paint department at Menards. Never tried mixing it with anything else (unless you count the Miller Lite in me while I am mixing it! LOL). -- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!" |
#13 posted 07-28-2010 09:33 PM |
I’ve had real good luck with denatured alcohol from the local Ace hardware. I also grind the flakes into dust using a coffee grinder and then stir it a number of times before actually using it which is at least a day or so after mixing. Has anyone purchased shellac flakes or DNA from shellac.net – just wondering? -- Don |
#14 posted 07-28-2010 09:35 PM |
Ditto on the coffee grinder. -- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!" |
#15 posted 07-28-2010 10:39 PM |
Just an update . . . pete -- "Man is so made that he can only find relaxation from one kind of labor by taking up another." -Anatole France |
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