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Need a home made shelf drill jig plan/or instructions how to make it

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Forum topic by Alonso posted 07-27-2010 03:24 AM 13548 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Alonso

946 posts in 1895 days


07-27-2010 03:24 AM

Can anyone point me out to the right direction?.... I’ve been searching but I couldn’t find anything about it, I know I can buy one for a few $$ but I would like to try myself first.

Thanks folks

Alonso

-- The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me.


13 replies so far

View Max's profile

Max

55960 posts in 2930 days


#1 posted 07-27-2010 03:27 AM

You can use a piece of 1/4” tempered peg board for a jig if you have any or buy a small piece to use. The placement of the holes are, if I remember correctly, 1” on center apart.

-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT

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SouthpawCA

254 posts in 1890 days


#2 posted 07-27-2010 03:37 AM

Yep … the tempered peg board with a self centering drill bit.

-- Don

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 2354 days


#3 posted 07-27-2010 03:39 AM

Drill guide spaces holes, and keeps them in line
Make perfectly spaced shelf-pin holes with a portable drill and this simple jig.

I Like This! (3)

Because I don’t own a drill press, I wasn’t looking forward to drilling a bunch of equally spaced holes for shelf pins in the sides of a cabinet. My prospects brightened when I came up with the self-aligning, self-spacing jig for use with a portable drill, shown at right.

I made it from three pieces of oak, glued together as shown at right, and two short 1/4” dowels. I laid out three 1/4” holes on 2” centers (the size and spacing for my shelf pins) along the centerline on the bottom of the jig, with the center of the first hole—the guide hole—1” from the thick end. I used a drill guide (McFeely’s part no. DG-3637, $39, 800/443-7937 or www.mcfeelys.com) to drill the three holes perpendicular to the base.

After marking and drilling the first two holes in the series, I indexed the jig’s dowels in the cabinet-side holes, and drilled the third hole. I then simply stepped the jig up one hole each time to drill the rest.
From Jim Laine Wood Magazine

View docholladay's profile

docholladay

1286 posts in 1715 days


#4 posted 07-27-2010 03:49 AM

I made one a while ago out of 1/2” plywood. Instead of a drill or drill press, I use a plunge router with a bushing. I drilled equidistant 5/8” holes along a line in the 1/2” plywood. I then install a router bushing in the router that fits snuggly in the hole. I then use a 1/4” spiral bit in the router and set the depth appropriately. Then it is just a matter of clamping the jig to the work piece, drop the bushing into a hole in the jig and plunge, move to the next hole and repeat. It works very quickly and efficiently. I go the idea from an episode of New Yankee Workshop. I like this better than a drill because I am much less likely to drill it off perpendicular. The only downside is the limitation to the 1/4” sized shelf pin hardware, but in my area, it is commonly available.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View poopiekat's profile

poopiekat

3634 posts in 2391 days


#5 posted 07-27-2010 04:10 AM

I’ve used strips cut from old pieces of pegboard as a template. The spacing is always right-on.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 2354 days


#6 posted 07-27-2010 04:15 AM

poopiekat I just gave the same thing

View Ger21's profile

Ger21

651 posts in 1788 days


#7 posted 07-27-2010 05:05 AM

I use a jig with a plunge router. You need a drill press. You’ll need an auxiliary table w/ fence. Place the jig on the table, and drill a 1/2” hole through the jig into the table. This is your first hole. Now move the table over by the hole spacing amount, and clamp down. Now use a 1/2” pin (router bit shank works good, just don’t cut yourself). Use the pin to locate the jig to the table, and drill another hole. Slide over, insert the pin, repeat.

This will give you an evenly spaced line of 1/2” holes.

Then, use a plunge router with a 1/2” guide bushing. I use a 1/4” upcut spiral bit. Much faster than using a drill, and the holes are much more accurate and precise.

-- Gerry, http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/CNC_Woodworker.html

View UncleFester's profile

UncleFester

33 posts in 2843 days


#8 posted 07-27-2010 12:12 PM

Exactly what dochollady said. Works like a charm!

-- Uncle Fester

View lumberdustjohn's profile

lumberdustjohn

1256 posts in 1823 days


#9 posted 07-27-2010 01:23 PM

I used an old square.
Drilled holes at 2” markings.

-- Safety first because someone needs you.

View Alonso's profile

Alonso

946 posts in 1895 days


#10 posted 07-27-2010 02:13 PM

Thank you everyone, great ideas from all, I’ll keep you post it once the project its done.!!!

Thanks again

Alonso

-- The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me.

View miles125's profile

miles125

2179 posts in 2662 days


#11 posted 07-27-2010 02:30 PM

Go see a nearby cabinet shop that has a cnc 5mm line bore. Would take em 10 minutes to setup and drill a 3/4” x 6” x 72” piece of your plywood that will keep the spacing true much longer than thin plys like pegboard.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 2354 days


#12 posted 07-27-2010 02:36 PM

poopiekat I see you have changed your comment witch was the same as mine, yours works fine too and very easy to make.

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

346 posts in 645 days


#13 posted 11-20-2013 01:45 PM

I made the “WWA Shelf Pin Jig” which uses a router. I had 20 feet of upper and lower cabinets to make the holes in and this worked great and you can make it yourself.

You can do google search on it to find the instructions on how to make it.

I set mine up to make Euro cabinets so the spacing and set back accuracy of the holes was important. It worked great for me.

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