45 Degree Locking Miter Bit

I think Dick had some recent experience with the lock miter bit. Maybe he can provide some guidance on this. It sounds like you are taking all the right steps so far though.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

Hi Fred, Welcome aboard Lumberjocks
I recently bought an lock miter bit, but like you I’ve only tested it on some scraps. My feeling are that it should make agood strong joint. Idon’t think it would even need reinforcement cleats, which would make a cleaner looking cabinet.

I found this PDF on Fine Woodworking. Tell me if it opens for you, sometimes they won’t open unless you’re a member, or you may have to register as a guest. Tell me if it works , or not.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I”ve the same problem. Im making a coffee table with raised panels for the ends and raised panel drawers. These are my legs. They we 2 1/2 inch square legs made of 3/4” hickory cut aat 45 degrees and made to look like a sing 2 1/2” square leg. I had a split so I cut the corners at 45 degrees and then mortise and tenon’d them.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Hi Dick – the PDF did not open probably since I am not a member.

Obi – thanks for the pictures. Definitely look strong to me.

This weekend I will square up the panels for the chest. I’ll make a small 45 cut on the ends so the 45 degree locking miter bit doesn’t have to work too hard and give it a try.

-- Fred Childs, Pasadena, CA - - - Law of the Workshop: Any tool, when dropped, will roll to the least accessible corner.

Fred
I’m sorry it didn’t open for you. FWW has so many things that I can see, & can’t share them.
I think that’s a good idea on sawing the angles first, but I wouldn’t cut them to sharp, I’d leave about a 1/16” blunt end. That article also had one good idea about protecting the finished corner. He routed about 1/4” rabbet, & glued a strip of wood into it. A person could use a contrasting colored wood if he wanted to.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Dick -

After glue up of the panels I used the 45 degree locking miter bit in my router table. It was quite an experience. It initially looked OK. The test fit looked OK too. I was not totally pleased with the corner joints after glue up. Even though I used cauls to assist in the assembly it did not meet my expectations. There are several small gaps. Tonight I will use a roundover bit for the corners to see if that will improve the appearance of the corners. If that doesn’t improve it, I will try a 1/4” rabbet and perhaps use some walnut to contrast with the cherry. Thanks for the tip.

Nothing like a little design modification half-way through a project. That’s what makes woodworking interesting and challenging to me.

It seems that the 45 degree locking bit should only be used on drawers and small boxes and not on a large chest.

-- Fred Childs, Pasadena, CA - - - Law of the Workshop: Any tool, when dropped, will roll to the least accessible corner.

One technique that is helpful for gluing 45 degree corners is to lay out the box flat as if you unfolded it. Turn the pieces over so the “corners” are touching each other. Tape the edges together so that when you fold it back up with glue, the seems will not slide on you.

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

That works great on standard miters, but would be impossible to do on locking miters because of the way they come together.

-- Ethan, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/

Ethan,

I think this will still work for locking miters. If you look at the top of the joint, I’m pretty sure that they will hinge together. However, if they don’t, you can still apply glue to the joint, put them together and apply the tape afterwards.

Ultimately, I was referring to Fred’s concern that, “Gluing 45 degree corners would be a nightmare”.

There’s also another joint that works well with miters if you’re using a chamfer bit. After using the chamfer for the 45 degree angle, you can create a spline by using the table saw to cut into the 45 degree miters of the wood to be joined. Then, put a piece of wood into the splines and glue the miters together.

See example (diagram C ): http://www.woodworkingjointery.com/page11.htm

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

Eh… you might be right there, BB.

When doing the spline method, I was taught you should use plywood if it won’t show. If it is going to show, you should try to cut the splines across the grain and not with the grain…

And I just checked your link and they go in to all of those details there, so nevermind… Go to BB’s link and read up on splines.

-- Ethan, http://greystonegreen.blogspot.com/