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RIDGID R4330 Planer Paddle Switch Replacement

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Forum topic by HorizontalMike posted 11-23-2016 01:31 PM 2321 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3062 days


11-23-2016 01:31 PM

Topic tags/keywords: ridgid paddle switch r4330 planer replacement

I have had my R4330 Planer for ~6yr and recently had it “smoke” the power/paddle switch. When I went to look for a replacement switch the RIDGID website said that that particular switch was no longer available. So off I went looking for a compatible paddle switch online.

Sight unseen, I found a possible replacement. Shop Fox D2751 - Paddle Switch 110V
SKU: D2751 Model: D2751
20amp

This was a double switch and the description/size appeared to be only slightly larger than what came on the R4330 so I thought I would give it a try and see if I could make it work (thought I was going to have to file the mounting hole larger, but when the Shop Fox switch arrived, I was pleasantly surprised because it was a direct drop-in replacement. And all of $5 bucks!

FWIW, this planer has been replaced by the newer R4331 model. Similar names but different planers. So for those folks out there with the older R4330 planers, I thought I would post the replacement part number for future reference, if needed.

I do NOT know if this same switch will work on the newer model R4331 planer. Does anyone know?

OEM on left & Shop Fox on right

All you have to do is hookup only one vertical pair of contacts, either the Left side OR Right side only.
NOTE: Connecting diagonally does not work.

Shop Fox switch installed

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."


13 replies so far

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10266 posts in 4200 days


#1 posted 11-23-2016 06:01 PM

Glad you lucked out!!

Do you have your planer working now?

Have a good one!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View toolie's profile

toolie

2144 posts in 2776 days


#2 posted 11-23-2016 06:02 PM

congrats on a creative fix.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

18373 posts in 3824 days


#3 posted 11-23-2016 07:59 PM

Lucky break, some days you eat the bear, some days the bear eats you ;-)

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5095 posts in 2641 days


#4 posted 11-23-2016 08:18 PM

Good deal….

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Druid's profile

Druid

1867 posts in 2943 days


#5 posted 11-23-2016 08:29 PM

Glad that you found such an economical solution, and it even comes with a spare set of contacts. ;)

-- John, British Columbia, Canada

View SignWave's profile

SignWave

451 posts in 3183 days


#6 posted 11-24-2016 12:31 AM

I’m glad that one worked for you.

-- Barry, http://BarrysWorkshop.com/

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3062 days


#7 posted 11-24-2016 01:10 AM

Thanks guys! Once I got past the frustrations with the LSA and distance to get service, I figured that I could do it cheaper myself. Especially with the advice from folks like Topomax and others…

We are good to go, and I have now thickness planed all my Claro-Walnut for a new box. FWIW, I spent a few minutes/hours setting up my Incra I-Box for 3/8in. box joints. Looks like I will have a 12” X 6” box when all is said and done. I even made a new zero-clearance insert for the TS just to celebrate!
.
. 8-)

Everything is running as new. Life is good, even without Jack (in the box ;-) if you know what I mean).

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3062 days


#8 posted 11-24-2016 01:11 AM



Glad that you found such an economical solution, and it even comes with a spare set of contacts. ;)
- Druid

You know,... I wasn’t even thinking about that, HOWEVER, you may be right! I guess it all depends on how bad the “next” burnout is, assuming that there is one! Great idea!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

18373 posts in 3824 days


#9 posted 11-24-2016 03:05 AM

Make sure the spade connectors make good, tight contact and there probably won’t be another burn out.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3062 days


#10 posted 11-24-2016 11:17 AM



Make sure the spade connectors make good, tight contact and there probably won t be another burn out.
- TopamaxSurvivor

You bet. I replaced the burnt spade connector with a new one. The others were fine. Plus, I bought a second switch as a backup, just in case… ;-)

Happy Turkey Day folks!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

18373 posts in 3824 days


#11 posted 11-26-2016 06:47 AM

I don’t like those slip on connectors for anything but light, low voltage connections. On motor or power circuits, the heat and cool cycles cause metal fatigue and loosening over time which leads a totally unnecessary failure. The heat from the deteriorating connection usually kills the device it is attached to. I saw this quite a few times on the multi-circuit emergency generator transfer switches used for 6 or 8 residential circuits. I can’t believe UL approved them.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View kowwpokey's profile

kowwpokey

2 posts in 870 days


#12 posted 05-12-2018 11:13 PM

I have the same problem so I appreciate the link for the part, but how does the old switch come out?

-- I've cut this board three times and it's still too short...

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3062 days


#13 posted 05-16-2018 05:24 PM



I have the same problem so I appreciate the link for the part, but how does the old switch come out?
- kowwpokey

Look at the right hand image and notice the plastic clip on each end. It take a little finagling, but I ‘m sure you’ll get figured out. As I recall, I had to take off the left side cover in order to have access to the back of the switch. Good luck!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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