Need Blade Suggestion for Miter Saw

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Forum topic by patcollins posted 07-25-2010 06:23 PM 1824 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View patcollins's profile


1687 posts in 3102 days

07-25-2010 06:23 PM

Hi I have a Skil miter saw that I am very happy with. I think I need a better blade on it however, it came with a Skil 40T ripping/crosscutting blade. Since I wont be doing any ripping on this saw I want something that will give good smooth crosscuts. I’m looking to be in the $40-$50 range. Not sure how the Skil blade is that came on it but I doubt its that great.

11 replies so far

View ChrisCarr's profile


196 posts in 3136 days

#1 posted 07-25-2010 07:43 PM

Check this link…

you can’t go wrong with freud or forrest, however dewalt makes good miter saw blades, most carpenters use dewalt blades for their miter saws.

However Ridgid makes good blades for around the price range you said. I personally use a ridgid combination to rip and crosscut on my TS and its just as good as freud. Check out ridgid blades…

Also you need to get a blade with the right angle teeth for miter saws to avoid grabbing. For miter saws you need a low or negative hook angle.

View knotscott's profile


8178 posts in 3613 days

#2 posted 07-25-2010 07:53 PM

I’m assuming it’s 10”? The 60T Infinity 010-060 with a Hi-ATB grind is on sale for $59.90. A little beyond budget but is a really impressive clean slicing blade with extremely low tearout. It’s also an excellent plywood blade for a TS.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 3118 days

#3 posted 07-26-2010 08:26 AM

I got a Ryobi miter saw a few years ago and it came with 10 new blades. This was before I got into woodworking and I didn’t know a thing about blades. Once I started getting into woodworking on a more serious level and started cutting smaller boards I had a huge problem with the blade kicking the small cut offs at me. Very scary. It also chipped out a lot of my cuts. Even after changing the blade with one of the others that came with it. I went out and got a new blade for 20 dollars, at that time I thought there was no way I was going to spend 50 dollars on a saw blade… Well the 20 dollar blade worked for a short while then same problem of kick back and chipping started happening again. As I got more into woodworking I learned that a good blade is everything. I ended up getting a Freud 60 tooth fine cut blade for around 50 dollars and its a whole new saw. I have never had any kickback or chip out. Even on very small boards…. I have since used several other blades that were more expensive and I honestly couldn’t tell a big difference. I think any blade in your price range will do you well.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View Cato's profile


701 posts in 3550 days

#4 posted 07-27-2010 02:36 PM

My Makita SCMS came with a nice 60 tooth thin kerf blade, and replacements sell for about $30 if I remember correctly. Makita brand blade.

Its a good enough blade that it is still on the saw, and it cuts nice and clean. I bought a Freud thin kerf 60 tooth for the saw, not expecting the stock blade to be any good so it was a nice surprise.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3312 days

#5 posted 07-27-2010 05:06 PM

I won’t get in to recommending a particular brand. However, let me suggest that you want a true crosscut blade with 60 – 80 teeth.

I know nothing about your particular miter saw. However, if it is somewhat low powered, you want a thin kerf blade. If it has lots of power, you don’t need thin kerf.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

21961 posts in 3343 days

#6 posted 07-27-2010 11:07 PM

I have a carbide tipped 60 tooth thin kerf crosscut blade and it works great ever for trimming off 1/32 for fitting. One thing you need to keep them clean. Use cheap Oven Cleaner( from the dollar store) and a brush if it looks like it is getting build up because that will rub and push the blade away from the work on thin cuts and also cause a lot of burning. I had the original Makita blade on the slding miter for about 3 years and then I bought this one and I don’t know the brand. Some day I’ll take the Makita in for sharpening so I have a spare

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View TheWoodNerd's profile


291 posts in 3429 days

#7 posted 07-28-2010 11:20 AM

Jim, oven cleaner isn’t recommended because harsh acids can attack the brazing that attaches the carbide teeth. I looked at a half-dozen different cleaners a few months ago, they’re not as cheap as oven cleaner but not really all that expensive, either.

-- The Wood Nerd --

View knotscott's profile


8178 posts in 3613 days

#8 posted 07-28-2010 03:09 PM

WN – Nice job with the blade cleaner review. Ever try cleaners like 409, Greased Lightning, LA’s Totally Awesome, or Fantastic?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View TheWoodNerd's profile


291 posts in 3429 days

#9 posted 07-28-2010 03:30 PM

I’m thinking of doing a round 2 with some new cleaners I’ve found and other’s have suggested.

-- The Wood Nerd --

View patcollins's profile


1687 posts in 3102 days

#10 posted 08-01-2010 10:38 PM

I ended up getting this blade

I went to buy the Ridgid and this one was $10 cheaper at $40 and it appears to be the same blade except in red and not that pimpin gold.

View patcollins's profile


1687 posts in 3102 days

#11 posted 08-03-2010 02:10 AM

I just made some test cuts in some really cheap pine that Lowes labels as “White Wood” and the backside had very minimal whiskers vs the chipout-tearout of the 40T Skil blade. Better pine had none as did some oak.

The blade doesn’t even make any noise as its going through the wood, unlike the 40T.

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