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G0690 TS Zero Clearance Insert -- Incorrect?

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Forum topic by HorizontalMike posted 07-25-2010 05:33 PM 5130 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HorizontalMike

7152 posts in 2379 days


07-25-2010 05:33 PM

Topic tags/keywords: zero clearance insert tablesaw

I have been enjoying and learning more about my new TS and was just getting ready to install a zero clearance insert when I made, what appears to me, an odd discovery. Take a look at how this insert is supposed to fit over the riving knife support bracket. What’s wrong with this picture?:

http://www.horizontalheavens.com/GarageWorkshop/ZeroClearanceInsert1.jpg

http://www.horizontalheavens.com/GarageWorkshop/ZeroClearanceInsert2.jpg

Looks like I’ll have to route out on the “correct” side for the riving knife bracket relief. Also, the insert nubs don’t even touch the walls so the insert is completely loose on the TS table and that will also need shimming.

Has anyone else ran into these issues with the Grizzly Inserts?

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."


16 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2840 days


#1 posted 07-25-2010 05:43 PM

The Grizzly literature shows for a G0960 and G0961 instead of the G0690…are they planning a right tilt version?

If those are made by Leecraft for Grizzly, there should be a screw on the side that’ll help snug up the slop.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ChrisCarr's profile

ChrisCarr

196 posts in 2363 days


#2 posted 07-25-2010 07:47 PM

Set screws on the side will snug it. If you don’t have any you can tap some with a drill bit and the set screw itself (as long as the insert is plastic)

View Headgeek's profile

Headgeek

6 posts in 2308 days


#3 posted 08-14-2010 02:42 AM

I also recently bought a G0690 and purchased 2 ZCIs for $29 each. It seemed like a lot for a ZCI but they were specifically desinged for G0690. Like the original post, I rapidly discovered that they slopped around in the saw. Obviously, I could have put some screws in to snug it up for $29 they should fit so I called Grizzly and complained. The tech researched it and said that they had had other compaints of the same thing and that they had a bad batch. He gave me an RMA and I sent it back. After two weeks I called and was told that they tested it in their saw and all I needed to do was sand down the bumps. I explained to them that was the opposite of my problem. I am now waiting for the replacements. We will see but I don’t hold out much hope. I really will be happy if it is backwards as in the picture. At that point, I might as well make my own and save the money.

View sergeantrecon's profile

sergeantrecon

33 posts in 3104 days


#4 posted 08-19-2010 11:31 AM

Wow, that is crazy…I thought about getting one of those inserts, but think I may just make my own. Anyway, I just started putting this saw together tonight and lo and behold, the set screw on the worm gear for the angle rod sheared off and the rod moves freely in and out with the handle attached to it! The gear just dropped like a bomb on the dust pan and I wanted to scream. Its late and I haven’t called Grizzly yet, but I wondered if any of you had pictures from the insides of how the whole gear is supposed to look put together…mainly I want to know if I did something wrong when I turned the wheel or if there are faulty/missing parts. If its just a bad set screw, I can go buy one of those, but I don’t know how to reset the gear in the right place. Any ideas? Thanks for any help you might have and I hope everything with the throat plate comes along better!

-- Scouts Out Front!

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sergeantrecon

33 posts in 3104 days


#5 posted 08-19-2010 11:35 AM

Also, forgot to ask if you guys wiped off all of that grease on the gears etc. when you first got it…I know most of it shouldn’t be on in order to not gunk up with sawdust, but I just don’t want to remove any that is supposed to be there. The manual seemed kind of vague as to what should be cleaned. Thanks!

-- Scouts Out Front!

View CiscoKid's profile

CiscoKid

335 posts in 2338 days


#6 posted 08-20-2010 05:29 PM

Just put my zero clearance insert in my brand new G0691 and, sure enough, the nubs don’t rub as they are supposed to. I love the saw so far, but I hope they fix these inserts in the future. I’m thinking of shimming mine with some tape. Or maybe taping it in place with some two-sided carpet tape.

-- Al, Culpeper VA

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CiscoKid

335 posts in 2338 days


#7 posted 08-20-2010 06:34 PM

I went out to my shop to mess about with tape. Got to thinking and ended up using one of the inserts that came with the saw as a template and located the hole in the front of the insert. I drilled a 7/32” hole clear through for the screw. Since the screw is a button head cap screw it really wants a flat bottom to rest on so I started a pilot hole with a 3/8” drill bit to find center and finished up by chucking a 3/8” upturn spiral router bit in my screw gun and carefully finished the counterbore. Works like a charm. Run the screw down until the back starts to lift and then back off a quarter turn. Won’t have to worry about the insert flying now.

Clamped a piece of sacrificial wood across the saw and ran the blade up through the insert with the riving knife off. Carefully measured for the riving knife and extended the slot with a Japanese pull saw. Took all of 20 minutes start to finish and looks great. Hope this helps you. I can take photos if needed.

-- Al, Culpeper VA

View Headgeek's profile

Headgeek

6 posts in 2308 days


#8 posted 08-20-2010 08:03 PM

Thanks for the input on the inserts. I actually considered that but at that price I thought Grizzly should have something that worked. I just got the replacements in the mail (3 weeks for an RMA) yesterday and have yet to try them. If that doesn’t work I will put in the screw and be done with it. I could make a custom instert but I want to start using the saw.

View Headgeek's profile

Headgeek

6 posts in 2308 days


#9 posted 08-23-2010 03:58 AM

Well I got the “replacement” inserts from Grizzly. They sent me back the exact same ones that I sent them and told me that they worked in their saw. Great—so does that mean that my saw table has a cutout that is too big? Plus they didn’t refund my postage !!. I am just going to do what CicscoKid suggests and drill the hole. It sounds like a better solution anyway.

Justin, I didn’t have any problem with the worm drive so I can’t really help. As far as wiping off the grease, I didn’t wipe off too much. I cleaned all of the table top and parts really well with their Citrus cleaner (it worked very well) I even took off the table top (mostly to lighten the saw to get it in the basement) and thouroghly cleaned it but I left the gears pretty much alone. This month’s Wood Magazine on P. 26 has a nice article about “Get the Gunk out of your Table Saw” which you might find interesting.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2840 days


#10 posted 08-23-2010 04:43 AM

Do inserts for the Laguna platinum fit the G0690/G0691? Not that there would be a plethora of them available for the Laguna, but it could improve your chances.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View sergeantrecon's profile

sergeantrecon

33 posts in 3104 days


#11 posted 08-24-2010 09:07 AM

Thanks Headgeek, I got it all sorted out. The set screw had failed and sheared off, letting the worm gear drop. I did read that article and it helped a lot, thanks! Now the only issue i have is with the damn spotting the Boeshield Rust Free put on my table top…any suggestions for getting them out and getting the mirror finish back? I guess it’s just aesthetics and doesn’t hurt functionality, but I just got the damn thing! lol
I can’t seem to get a good reading on blade to miter slot parrallelism using a combo. square either…I don’t have the money to buy one of those fancy calipers so I wondered if anyone had a alternative method??

-- Scouts Out Front!

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7152 posts in 2379 days


#12 posted 08-24-2010 03:14 PM

Justin,
Yeah, the Rust Free also “ruined” the center portion of my new G0690. Took care of the rust, but it no longer has that “like new” milled appearance. It is and has been literally +100F in my Texas workshop over the past couple of months and if I forget to turn my fans toward me EVERY TIME I move to another machine I will drip sweat off my hands and within 20min I will see rust circles where the sweat drops hit (even with Boeshield on it). I guess that’s why we call them ”work” shops and NOT ”museums.” ;-)

As far as my insert, still haven’t installed it but will probably use it as a template to start making my own. I also like Ciscokid’s idea//method and will use on additional homemade inserts as I do not see paying $30 for these things. Besides, this will give me more fun time on the BS 8-).

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2315 days


#13 posted 08-24-2010 05:32 PM

I hope I don’t sound like a smug old duffer. I’ve been using my own shopmade inserts for years (professional shop) and they just sit in there and are loose enough that I can tip them up, front or back, to lift them out. I have never had any safety issue whatsoever with them, so I’m curious about all this effort to have set screws to make them snug. (Saw is a Powermatic 66)

I wonder if the set screw idea was a design concept on an aftermarket product, used to increase the retail price (hence profit margin), and sold as a safety feature and now we have absorbed all that as truth and so we put our own set screws in to snug them up just because we can.

I’m open to new information!

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7152 posts in 2379 days


#14 posted 08-25-2010 01:13 AM

Lee,
You may be right. However, I would think that the rear underside screw on the insert that catches the rear TS slot may still be worthwhile as it would prohibit the rear of the insert from lifting and thus kicking forward. The forward/front set screw may be as you say, serving little to no purpose other than by design.

On a followup thought, a loose “zero tolerance” insert could/would lose its “zero tolerance” after awhile from loosely bouncing back and forth against the blade IMO. Being a newbie, this is just conjecture on my part as I have no experience with that…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2315 days


#15 posted 08-25-2010 01:56 AM

Good thoughts, Mike. Anecdotally, I’ve never had the back kick up. I am not able to imagine what would cause that. If the back kicked up, the front would be held against the front lip; the insert could not go forward. The little cast iron tabs would be the fulcrum. The whole insert would have to rise for it to become a projectile.

As for zero clearance, there is enough teensy wobble in even the finest blade to enlarge the slot. The true zero clearance insert is made only of unobtainium.

It troubles me to see energy and money wasted on gizmos like this as if it will make a significant difference in the quality of the work. It just won’t. The time could be devoted to making sure that the blade is true to the table, both vertically and when it’s tilted (two different things) and right away what you do with the saw becomes more fun. And the more fun you have with the saw, the better the work.

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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