My new toy: Worksharp 3000

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Forum topic by fotbr posted 07-25-2010 01:35 AM 1635 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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16 posts in 3250 days

07-25-2010 01:35 AM

I talked myself (with very little talking actually) into buying a new toy at Woodcraft since they’re having one of their 10% off sales. I’m now the new proud owner of a Worksharp 3000.

First of all, I HATE sharpening. I suck at it. I can never get a consistent bevel, or a truly good edge, so I tend to avoid any chisel or plane work unless there is absolutely no alternative. I’d tried regular arkansas stones, waterstones, and had settled on using various grades of sandpaper on a granite slab. All of which worked about equally well for me; my technique was the failure. The edges I produced weren’t dangerously dull, but they weren’t anywhere near the mythical “scary sharp” I called it “somewhat sharp”.

Enter the WS3K.

Upon unboxing it, I was greeted with a very clear manual. If it was translated, it was done by someone qualified. Drawings are very good as well. I didn’t have any real need for the manual for setup other than to make sure that you can put a sandpaper disk on each side of the glass disks (the answer is yes). There’s enough abrasive to last for a while: you won’t need to run back to the store for more right away. Two glass disks and a slotted disk were in the box; I haven’t used the slotted disk yet. The box I got also had their leather honing disk in it as a free bonus.

Setup was straight forward, attach one abrasive disk to each side of the glass disks, P120, P400, P1000, and ~3600 micromesh. Place the freehand guard in place and secure with two thumbscrews. Place the first disk on it and secure with knob. Plug in and turn on.

Lapping the backs of a couple chisels went very quickly, starting with 120. Turn off, flip disk over and re-secure. Finish lapping the backs with the 400 side of the disk.

Adjusting the guide’s angle to 25 degrees was quite simple, and adjusting for the width of your chisel is easy-peasy. The manual recommends 1-2 seconds in contact with the disk, followed by pulling the chisel straight down the guide to remove the burr. I followed that process for each of the four grades and produced an edge far in excess of what I can do by hand. I have not yet messed with the leather disk.

From opening the box to two freshly sharpened chisels was perhaps 15 minutes.

I cannot say if I’ll turn into a hand tool addict, but I no longer hate the idea of using them. It is amazing how much nicer it is to work with sharp tools instead of “somewhat sharp” tools.

The good:
It is pretty quiet.
No overheating of tools.
Even the sharpening challenged like me can use it.

The bad:
Removing adhesive sandpaper disks can be entertaining at times.

The ugly:
You can free-hand sharpen on it. This leads me right back to my technique (or lack thereof) and ugly results.

The conclusion: If you can hand-sharpen with good results, you probably don’t need this. If you’re like me, this thing is fantastic.

9 replies so far

View Eagle1's profile


2066 posts in 3063 days

#1 posted 07-25-2010 11:39 AM

I bought one a while back. I love it I to have had trouble sharping my chisels. I had just finished sharping one, when my stepson came in and asked if that was sharp or not. I told him sharp enough you could shave with it. He didn’t believe me. So I showed him by shaving some hair off my arm. All he could say was wow. Now I keep them locked up. You can probavly figure out why.

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2137 posts in 3107 days

#2 posted 07-26-2010 05:39 AM

I bought this recently as well. I agree that is an amazing product and well worth the cost. I avoided hand tools for some time because I was so irritated with my poor sharpening skills. I have to admit, though, that using this machine has actually made me more proficient with free hand sharpening on the 3000 and on the grinder. I have lathe tools so freehand is unavoidable, but getting a clear vision of how the sharpening process works and what the end results should be, really helped open the doors to me to control my sharpening freehand and work toward the ideal results.

Thanks for sharing,


-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View WorkSharp's profile


10 posts in 2859 days

#3 posted 07-28-2010 02:37 AM

Glad you guys are pleased with your Work Sharp guys!
Thanks for your kind words about our product.
Having written that user’s guide, I appreciate your feedback.
It was quite an undertaking to effectively teach people how to use the tool.

Tip for you on removing the abrasive discs –
use that old brick buster chisel that you sharpened and is now shaving sharp to scrape off any residue left by the PSA backing.

Keep Workin’ Sharp guys!

View swirt's profile


2737 posts in 2971 days

#4 posted 07-28-2010 03:27 AM

Here are a couple of questions I’ve been interested in knowing. I have a 1/2” timberframe mortising chisel that is 1/2” wide and 3/4” thick. Would it sharpen this? Or how about the blade from a Stanley 151 spokeshave?

-- Galootish log blog,

View douglbe's profile


369 posts in 3960 days

#5 posted 07-28-2010 03:56 AM

I have had one for a year and half now and I couldn’t be more pleased with the results. I sharpen my lathe tools on it and they work great. Now, if I could figure how to sharpen 6” jointer blades and 13” planer blades, I’d be all set.

Swirt: Sharpening your mortising chisel will depend on the angle, the Worksharp 3000, as 20, 25, 30, & 35 degree angles, if it is one of these it will handle it. For the spokeshave blade you would need the wide blade attachment.

-- Doug, Reed City, Michigan

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2137 posts in 3107 days

#6 posted 07-28-2010 05:15 AM

Swirt – On the portion of the worksharp in which chisels are sharpened, you can sharpen on the right or left side of the guide. For mortising chisels, I have found the left side of the guide provides plenty of clearance, while the right does not. I was able to regrind to a proper bevel a 1/4 and 3/8th mortise chisel.


-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View swirt's profile


2737 posts in 2971 days

#7 posted 07-28-2010 05:50 AM

Thanks Doug and David. Much appreciated info.

-- Galootish log blog,

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 2922 days

#8 posted 07-28-2010 10:38 PM

I’ve had one for 3 plus years and really like it. Once you do a tool on it, it takes about 10 seconds to bring it up to par.
I like to cruise flea markets looking for tools. One of the things I stayed away from was chisels because most people do not know how to sharpen them and generally make a mess. I wouldn’t buy them because of the time it would take to straighten them out. Now I can buy them and have them razor sharp in only a few minutes. Another thing is plane blades, works like a charm. Great tool.

-- Life is good.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3073 days

#9 posted 07-28-2010 10:47 PM

I have had one for some time. IMO, it does a good job of consistently giving you a sufficiently sharp edge on chisels and plane irons. It is also very convenient to use. It does not give me what I would call a “super sharp” edge. To get to that super sharp status, after using the WS 3000, I go to two water stones (1000 and 6000 grit) and guide. 90% of the time I don’t bother with the extra sharpening on the water stones, but I do if I am working on a delicate operation where I really want super sharp edges.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

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