Sweat stains on band saw table

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Forum topic by Simons44 posted 07-25-2010 12:32 AM 2554 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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93 posts in 3393 days

07-25-2010 12:32 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question band saw grizzly cast iron

Yesterday I received my my Grizzly 14” ultimate band saw (love it). Today I was working with it and you can see my sweat stains on the table. You can tell where my wrists were and where sweat dropped from my head. How do I protect the table? I put a coat of Johnson’s paste wax on it, but that did not help.

I live in Houston, where it’s always super humid so not sweating isn’t an option.

I hope I didn’t ruin the table on day one!
-Jeremy! (Band Saw Table)!:

6 replies so far

View Paul2274's profile


330 posts in 3081 days

#1 posted 07-25-2010 04:55 AM

Can you rub the whole table with 0000 steel wool then reapply the Johnson’s?

If not perhaps some mineral spirits with the steel wool then wipe dry. Then to make oil free and residue free wipe down with some rubbing alcohol. then dry and apply the Johnson’s.

Since it’s new it probaly had a coating of something on it for shipping. Your sweat just ate through that coating and when you wiped over it you could still see it. I would try to remove that coating and start clean.

Good luck,


View araldite's profile


188 posts in 3373 days

#2 posted 07-25-2010 04:59 AM

I use Boeshield T-9 and reapply every month or two.

-- Failure is the road to success if you learn to learn from your mistakes - Vince, Greenville, SC

View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2883 days

#3 posted 07-25-2010 05:12 AM

Yep, Boeshield T-9. I also discovered the same “sweat” problem with my new 14”BS this summer, here near San Antonio. Tried all the car waxes and sweat went right through and rust started within less than an hour. Finally got the T-9 at Sears no less, and problem solved. FWIW, the Sears T-9 came with a rust remover chemical. The rust remover works great on old already rusted table faces but I made the mistake of using it on my new TS that and a couple of sweat stains and I did not like those results. Technically, it removed the rust but it also ruined the “new milled iron” look. Adjust your expectations accordingly.

One other thing, after letting the T-9 dry completely, you can buff it out the next day to get rid of the tacky feeling.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Simons44's profile


93 posts in 3393 days

#4 posted 07-25-2010 05:42 AM

Thanks for the info!

View Berg's profile


116 posts in 3159 days

#5 posted 07-25-2010 11:37 AM

Sounds like the perfect solution to my tool rehab problem. I just picked up a TS and DP both with light surface rust and the TS has couple of drink can rings (we must assume “soda can”, right?) on the cast iron. I was thinking I’d use an orbital sander with (600? 800?) wet/dry sandpaper then wax. Definitely going to try T-9. I just went to the T-9 web site . Looks like I’m going to have to dip everything I own in the stuff including my car. Probably start with the TS and DP though. ;)

Jeremy, Thanks for starting this thread.

-- Pete - "To every thing there is a season Turn! Turn! turn!" [Ecclesiastes and Pete Seeger]

View Eagle1's profile


2066 posts in 3033 days

#6 posted 07-25-2010 11:46 AM

Reinsanuse wax works well if you get a few coats built up on it. As far as getting the light rust. The rust remover that you get with the kit of Bio shield works great. If it seems a little pitted, use one of those fine scotch brite pads. with the rust remover. REMEMBER to have well ventelation, that rust remover is a acid based product.

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

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