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Clear top coat on painted surfaces, Can I do it?

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Forum topic by siouxdawgs0409 posted 1502 days ago 14060 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1730 days


1502 days ago

I have a board that I painted with some latex paint. I am putting a color laser printed “decal” on the top of it with some spray adhesive. Now the question is can I put any sort of top clear coat over the top to protect the decals from abuse? I guess the problem is that I feel I could use an oil based top coat on the decal to keep the colors from running but I feel I need to use a waterbased top coat on the latex paint. So does anyone know if water based top coats would cause the ink to run on the laser color decal on paper or if the oil based top coat would cause any problems being applied on latex paint?
Thanks


28 replies so far

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nailbanger2

960 posts in 1780 days


#1 posted 1502 days ago

Perhaps some shellac?

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

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siouxdawgs0409

107 posts in 1730 days


#2 posted 1502 days ago

How durable is shellac? It will not be out in the rain but may get a little moisture from time to time. It is being used on an outdoor game set. Will have bags full of corn tossed onto them. So I am trying to keep the decal from getting to sctratched from the tossed corn bags. Making a set of corn hole boards if you know what those are.

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CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2507 days


#3 posted 1502 days ago

actually shellac is not very durable, especially out side, and is not very abrasion resistant, also I would be concerned about it dissolving the color on the decal, shellac is a alcohol base and it can damage printed items very easily, if it were me, I would look to one of the pour on finishes, like http://www.save-on-crafts.com/enlikit8o8ys.html

which i think is available at Lowe’s as I recall, its used alot in decoupage which is exactly what you are doing , and doesn’t distort photos or printed items, like a water based or other solvent base would, and is about as weather proof and abrasion proof as it gets…not cheap , and not super easy but it works well, even a spray lacquer can distort and smear printed material, especially laser, printing, we use a trick for carving, where we make laser copies or any printer that uses a toner, to make copies of the pattern, then lay them face down on the wood and wipe the back of the paper to wet , and it will transfer the pattern to the wood, meaning it is dissolving the ink… good luck

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live4ever

983 posts in 1646 days


#4 posted 1502 days ago

Tabletop epoxy? Overkill?

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

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CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2507 days


#5 posted 1502 days ago

.>>>>>>>>Tabletop epoxy? Overkill?<<<<<<<<<<,

an alternative you KNOW works , ????? please advise

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1646 days


#6 posted 1502 days ago

I’ve never used it, but it’s the stuff commonly used for bartops etc., and I’ve seen folks put photos or newspaper clippings under it. I’m not sure if it would be the same as the Lowe’s product you were referring to, Charles, but I think it would be similar to the product you linked.

Here is one particular brand…
http://www.shopmaninc.com/kk121.html

Oh, I should clarify – I posed my response before yours popped up Charles so my “tabletop epoxy? overkill?” statement wasn’t directed at your post…

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

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a1Jim

112027 posts in 2213 days


#7 posted 1502 days ago

It’s great to have free advise from an expert like Charles 30 plus years and lots of finished outstanding work under his belt.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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wseand

2129 posts in 1678 days


#8 posted 1502 days ago

Look up Decoupage on the internet. The people that do that have it to a science. Arm-R Seal from General finishes is very hard, or a marine grade sealer. Use either semi or gloss they are harder. You can use oil based over water but not the other way around. Do a test piece to see what happens. If you get a spray on poly and spray one coat over the decal there is less of a chance of smearing than apply the arm-r-seal. remember to sand between coats and sand the paint lightly before applying sealer. If the decal isn’t to intricate can you just paint it on instead of using the decal. Post a picture if you can to get a better idea of what you are doing.

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

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live4ever

983 posts in 1646 days


#9 posted 1502 days ago

Just to reiterate again, my post was in no way directed at Charles’. I was essentially saying “How about tabletop epoxy? Would that be overkill?”

NOT

“Charles, you’re recommending tabletop epoxy? Isn’t that overkill??”

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 2764 days


#10 posted 1502 days ago

I have used waterborne polyurethane finishes over printed materials attached to wood.
We made some bar tops covered with wine and beer labels.

Cheap to test before you commit…

-- 温故知新

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CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2507 days


#11 posted 1502 days ago

live4ever, it s basically the same thing, just the envirolite is usually cheaper, as its a polymer, or better put its basically a polyester resin like used in auto body filler , and again its easy to find, Lowe’s, most craft stores, have it, I have used it numerous time’s, if I were doing a bar top or similar then I would go to the more expensive epoxies, yes its over kill no doubt, but it works and I’m not aware of anything else that does in this situation, even a glue size would distort the decal , and if the decal were vinyl or other , the shellac or lacquer would melt it, and the glue or water based would not hold.. so its a ” darned if you do darned if you don’t thing: , I was hoping someone knew of an alternative, I actually , playing around , used some mdf, and did some Faux painting on it, ( grained and made it look like marble” then did the epoxy stuff, and I have to tell you, you would have to look a dozen times to know it wasn’t marble, the reason I even share this, is well…lf you would like marble counter-tops or a table top, lets just call it a ” fun family project” , and it saves a ton, the polymer coating again is cheaper, so I used it for the base coat to get the paint covered and then sanded it back smooth then did one last coat with the epoxy.. to add more durability..

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CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2507 days


#12 posted 1502 days ago

hobo, I havent tried that ,but its worth a shot, but it depends on the ink used in the label or decal… I would also suggest a good heavy paper

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CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2507 days


#13 posted 1502 days ago

arm r seal may be an suggestion as well, all sound reasonable, I will be anxious to see how this comes out, its all great information , oh yea live 4 ever… no issue taken my friend, we are all learning here, again I hope someone here has a good solution… im certainly open…

View Drew's profile

Drew

136 posts in 1736 days


#14 posted 1502 days ago

How about a bar top varnish, or a marine varnish.

-- That men do not learn very much from the lessons of history is the most important of all the lessons that history has to teach.” ― Aldous Huxley

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1752 days


#15 posted 1502 days ago

if things is painted with an mineralmixed colour you can both use a mineralbased lack and
the waterbased lack
but if the colour is on waterbase you can´t use a mineralbased lack on the top
I garantie you will have to start all over again

Dennis

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