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Forum topic by DustyGuy posted 11-14-2016 06:38 PM 504 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DustyGuy

14 posts in 1071 days


11-14-2016 06:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: craftsman style stickley 14 sawn finishing

I’m building a pair of large bookcases ( 84”H x 60”W x 15”D) with plain sawn white oak fit the shelf and face frame edges in 1/4 sawn. The customer gave me a drawer from one of his Stickley pieces to match the stain that is a medium brown with the pores nearly black. I’ve tried a few different processes but haven’t quite gotten there. Besides the color, some of the oak is a bit lighter in color and I’d like to even that out somewhat. The bookcases will sit on either side of a large fireplace so the customer isn’t overly worried about a perfect match, but I’d still like to get it close. I’ve tried doing a wash coat of 50/50 clear shellac followed by a stain on one sample and a gel stain on another, but not quite the look I want. Obviously, I want the rays in the 1/4 saw to really pop. While there are a lot of books on Craftsman style furniture, most of the finishing info focuses on the more traditional golden look. Any suggestions would be welcome! Oh, and I just received a few packets of water soluble dye stains, but have yet to try them.

-- Norm Miller


6 replies so far

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bondogaposis

4478 posts in 2189 days


#1 posted 11-14-2016 06:56 PM

The black pores can be achieved by using Liberon black bison wax at the very end of the finishing process. Try using dyes instead of stain, it is much easier to control the color with dye.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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AandCstyle

2905 posts in 2095 days


#2 posted 11-14-2016 11:00 PM

Norm, you might find something helpful on Jeff Jewitt’s site. HTH

-- Art

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DustyGuy

14 posts in 1071 days


#3 posted 11-14-2016 11:11 PM

Art! That’s what I was looking for! Thank you! I’m also a big fan of General Finishes, both the Armor Seal and the Enduro Var

Bondo… yes, I had already determined that I needed to use a dye, I wanted to avoid using a wax due to the proximity to the fireplace, which may or may not have been a problem

-- Norm Miller

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mrbob

182 posts in 407 days


#4 posted 11-14-2016 11:19 PM

This is what I do and have pretty much perfected. It was based on info in Bob Flexner’s Finishing book. You dye the wood to get your color, then a thinned coat of oil based Poly, assuming the dye is water/alcohol based.
I then buff with a green Scotch Brite pad. Then an oil based stain to get depth and” pop the grain” . I made a cabenet and if I have the pic I will post it with QS white oak and look in my finishing note book for my notes on the dye and stain I used.

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mrbob

182 posts in 407 days


#5 posted 11-14-2016 11:46 PM

Up date, got my finish notes out that cabinet I used Minwax dark walnut on, then just oil wiped on Minwax Poly.
It was a QS WO clock I did the Trans Tint Mission Dark Brown dye, then the cut to 50% with min spirits wipe on poly, then Minwax dark walnut oil based stain. Then oil wipe on Poly.
So, no pics on the computers, I must have deleted them.

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mrbob

182 posts in 407 days


#6 posted 11-15-2016 01:23 AM

I highly recommend you get Bob Flexner’s book on Understanding Wood Finishes” Soft cover is about $25. Jeff Jewitt may have something also, just not aware if he does. Both are experts on it.
Bobs book covers different finishes, dyes, stains ect.

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