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My New Upgrade - TS3650

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Forum topic by DavedA posted 11-12-2016 04:13 AM 793 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DavedA

60 posts in 404 days


11-12-2016 04:13 AM

Topic tags/keywords: ts3650 table saw crosscut sled outfeed table saw ridgid

I am setting out on a large project list for the house, and some much needed hobby work, so naturally, I need to upgrade my old saw. Granted, my old saw is a Skil portable TS that I have had for about 5-7 years, and have only built wood racks for storage, and small, rough storage cabinets; nothing requiring large cuts or precision.

Now that I am getting back into building furniture (haven’t since HS), I decided something more capable, accurate, and stable would be better, and my wife agreed. After scouring Craigslist, I was about to go pick up an old Craftsman 113 series TS, but sickness kept me home for 4 days, during which a very nice gentleman listed his TS3650 – right after I complained we don’t get good deals in my region.

The previous owner kept great care of it. It’s aligned square, and had only minor surface rust, as well as some minor stains. The surface has character, but shows it’s been well cared for. All adjustments move easily and lock solidly, the lift casters needed some tightening, but it works great and moves easily. It runs smoothly and quietly, and reminds me of my dad’s old saws. All-in-all, I think it was a great deal for the same cost it would have been for me to bring the old 113 comparable with a new fence.

Next up I think is to build an outfeed table, something similar to a combination of these:
https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/power-tools/woodworking-discussion-forum/7791-3650-outfeed-table?t=7542

https://youtu.be/_JIvKYOR_bA

Also, there are a ton of ideas/plans for crosscut sleds, and I know there are opinions on one versus another for what’s best. Anyone care to share links to their favorites and why?

Lastly, here is my new addition:


12 replies so far

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DirtyMike

637 posts in 736 days


#1 posted 11-12-2016 04:21 AM

Any sled with non wood slides and t track with a stop is all i need.

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AHuxley

652 posts in 3156 days


#2 posted 11-12-2016 04:46 AM

I like the Ng sled and his process of tuning it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

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ArtMann

683 posts in 650 days


#3 posted 11-12-2016 06:58 PM

I just recently sold my TS3650 after 10+ years of steady use. It is a very good contractor style saw and the only reason I sold it is that I stumbled upon a cabinet saw at a great deal. If I had enough room in my shop, I wouldn’t have sold it. You will often hear that an expensive cabinet saw is more accurate or cuts more cleanly than a contractor saw. That has not been my experience. I have built a lot of very challenging projects with it and these things were never an issue. Someone mentioned that you should build a crosscut and perhaps a miter sled for it. I agree. If built correctly, those accessories will greatly improve the versatility, ease of use and accuracy.

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Redoak49

2890 posts in 1823 days


#4 posted 11-12-2016 10:59 PM

For sleds, I use the Incra miter sliders. When a sled wear out, I take the slider off and put it on a new sled.

I have several sleds and use the small blade and medium ones the most. I have a large one but do not use it often.

You found a good looking saw that should work well.

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Jim Finn

2575 posts in 2756 days


#5 posted 11-12-2016 11:44 PM

I have this saw and it has served me well for ten years now….and counting. I have made a few sleds/jigs for this saw. No plans, just made what I needed.

-- No PHD, but I have a GED and my DD 214

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2684 days


#6 posted 11-13-2016 03:21 PM

That saw for $200 to $250 would be a good deal. I’ve got it’s predecessor TS3612 before they went orange but as it was a floor demo and the rails were bent the tool manager gave me the fence and rails from the 3650, which were a vast improvement. All sorts of thoughts for outfeed, and they depend mostly on what room you’ve got, here's my set up I’d also recommend the router table wing as its a good space saver.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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DavedA

60 posts in 404 days


#7 posted 11-14-2016 03:39 AM

Is the preference for metal slides over wood just due to the expansion properties of the wood based on MC and climate or is there another reason? I was going to use some plywood sheets I have here to construct. I also just came into possession of a thick MDF sheet, maybe greater than 1/2” (It’s soooo heavy), and I was going to use that for some jigs or projects, but it doesn’t seem to be a popular choice for sleds. Ply seems to be the preferred.

I like the look of the NG sled in the video, and that’s kind of what I am going for when I build one. I just don’t think I want a sled as huge as that.


That saw for $200 to $250 would be a good deal. I ve got it s predecessor TS3612 before they went orange but as it was a floor demo and the rails were bent the tool manager gave me the fence and rails from the 3650, which were a vast improvement. All sorts of thoughts for outfeed, and they depend mostly on what room you ve got, here s my set up I d also recommend the router table wing as its a good space saver.

- ChefHDAN

I spent a bit more than the $250, but I compared to all the saws around me, and the old Craftsman 113s were selling for $100. Adding a better fence like the Delta to it would be another $160-$190, so i figured that was my target range with this, and I am okay with that. It’s complete, well cared for, had the manual still, and the seller was very nice, so I had not problem spending the money. I think this thing will last a long while (knock on… ... wood? ;) )

I have a Workmate so I might give your idea a try for now. I have a similar garage situation to yours, but I am trying to declutter and organize it well enough to give me space for this, a bandsaw, and working room. That also makes that router wing a good idea. Any suggestions on a plan to follow for this saw?

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DavedA

60 posts in 404 days


#8 posted 11-14-2016 03:40 AM

P.S. I waxed it down with a good coating of Johnson’s Paste wax the other night, and the small 2×4 piece I was testing the surface with almost flew off the table with barely any effort. I had the biggest smile on my face. I can’t wait to get to work on my tables and benches!

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toolie

2094 posts in 2463 days


#9 posted 11-14-2016 11:39 AM

Good luck with the 3650. It should do everything needed in a hobbyist shop.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2684 days


#10 posted 12-04-2016 04:09 PM

Hey Dave, some go for the metal slides because they cannot move much from the environment, and a few of mine are hardwood and they do get a little slop from time to time, and as it get to be enough to bother me or mess up cuts I replace them with either high density plastic, (ala propelene cutting board) or with some solid surface material i scavenged from a kitchen rebuild.

For my router wing i didn’t do a great deal of planning, sort of built it as I went; it’s a sheet of 3/4” cabinet ply with a piece of laminate contact cemented on with a 1.5” edge banding of white oak. I built the entire piece with in a 1/8” th of the opening and then used the saw to slice an edge off until it fit perfect. I used the slots in the front & back rail for the heads of two bolts at the back & 3 in the front rail, (take the end caps off) and then slid the table between the rails so that the 3 holes on the wing side could be aligned and then transfer punched to mark center. I drilled 3 holes into the wing and then put it all together tightening across left, right, & the wing. I went about 1/32” over for the holes so that I’d have a bit of wiggle room to align and flatten the top & edges. I’ve thought of putting in a slot to the top but have not as yet found an overwhelming need for one that is worth the effort of taking it all apart, when I need a feather board, i use homemade ones that are about 18” long and can clamp them to the table edge. To make the cut out I made a full size pattern from 1/4 ply with the exact size of the plate cut out and then used it to mark the wing, drilled 4 holes near the corners, and rough cut the opening with the jig saw. then using the largest template collar I had I 2x taped the pattern to the wing and used the router to finish the cut out, the template collar cut the opening 3/8’smaller than the plate, which let me use a rabbeting bit to “sink the plate into the surface.

Good luck with yours, btw, the end brace on my table is just ripped 2×4’s nailed together to make a frame so I can easily put it in place when needed and still move things around easy, it’s just held in place by the weight of the table, sometimes a shim at the floor depending where the saw is parked on the slab.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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DavedA

60 posts in 404 days


#11 posted 12-06-2016 05:29 PM

Thanks for the feedback, tips, and details for what you put together. I finally got some stuff organized and cleaned up a bit in my messy garage to allow me to line up my TS, MS, BS, and workmate to start putting some things together. I now have 2 push sticks, pieces for my first x-cut sled, and a blank for a ZCI. I had a neighbor moving out that gave me 2 sheets of ply and 1 sheet of thick MDF (OMW I forgot the weight of this!) so I am using some of this stuff for these bits. I definitely need to clean up my freehand routing skills. :-D

I hadn’t thought of using cutting board for the slides of the sled. Do you just rip them in the TS or a band saw?

Thanks again.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2684 days


#12 posted 12-09-2016 07:46 PM

Yep, in my trade the poly boards get too scored for use & I’ll only take the time to resurface the 2” thick big ones that are really expensive. The 3/4” ones I just rip with a 50t combo blade on the TS and use them for runners and keep one on the bench for things I cut with the utility knife. When you rip the runners, cut a little fat and then I just bump the fence and take a 1/64 off until they fit perfect. Put a few dimes into the slots and with some small bits of 2x tape on the runners I use the fence to square 1 edge to the table and then drop the sled onto the runners. Lift it carefully and then drill and screw the slides to the sled.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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