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Delta 36-725 fence WOBBLE

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Forum topic by optimusprimer92 posted 11-11-2016 02:11 AM 1442 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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optimusprimer92

21 posts in 400 days


11-11-2016 02:11 AM

I just purchased a new Delta 36-725 and got it assembled. The only thing I am concerned about is the fence system. The rails are aligned as well as I can get them but when I lock down the fence, I am able to wiggle the back of the fence about 1/8” to either side with moderate effort. My Ridgid R4513 never did this and it is a jobsite saw. Also, when I move it back and forth across the table, it is SUPER sloppy. It doesn’t slide in a nice smooth motion like I would expect it to but there is a ton of play. It moves a lot when I lock it down and it seems like I can’t get it to slide in a straight line…ie it wobbles back in forth in the groove from end to end. Has anyone else seen this happen with this saw?


17 replies so far

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#1 posted 11-11-2016 03:10 AM

Are you sure the little metal clip is hooked over the angle iron on the back? If you can figure it out, I would call Delta customers support.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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optimusprimer92

21 posts in 400 days


#2 posted 11-11-2016 03:46 AM

Yes, the clip is angled over the back rail. When the cam is not engaged, the fence has about a half inch of play between where the front of the fence sits on the square tube. When it is loose, there is enough room between the rail and mounting angle bracket that the fence just wobbles around when I move it. Then, when locked down, I can push the back of the fence back and forth if I give it some force. Also, I am getting a positive lock on the clamp on the front of the fence.

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hotbyte

989 posts in 2813 days


#3 posted 11-11-2016 11:56 AM

The rear of mine will also wobble when the lock lever is fully released. As I get near final set point, I simply apply pressure on lock lever which pullls it back into square. Then make final adjustment with slight pressure on lock. I’ve never tried to force rear movement in locked position but have had no issues with it moving while using fence.

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#4 posted 11-11-2016 10:33 PM

I just went out and looked at my fence. When locked down, I can only flex the fence about 3 thousandths of an inch one direction and 5 the other , measured at the back of the fence, with more than what I would consider moderate pressure. I cannot see anything in the way my fence is made that would allow it to flex 1/8” unless there is a broken weld or something loose. Where exactly does it flex or move? Does the entire fence including the T move? When you press on the side at the back can you see the T that locks against the front rail move? If so, try sliding some sort of shim between the cam and the fence to see if that makes it tighter.

At the risk of insulting your intelligence (not my intent) I will just throw out the obvious things that come to mind:
- You might try redoing the adjustment that squares the fence to the blade. Tightening them (nearly) all the way down will make the fence tighter when it is locked and then back off the one needed to make it square. Make sure that they didn’t forget to install the plastic (UHMW?) pads that prevent metal on metal contact between the T and the rail. There is one between the locking cam and the rail too.
- Is it possible that the bolts that hold on the extruded aluminum sides aren’t tight or the sides themselves are warped and flexing while the center stays rigid? Make sure they aren’t over tightened causing the sides to distort and flex away from the center. (You might need them to send you a new fence or at least new sides in this case)
- Make sure that the front rail doesn’t flex or move at all and that you used the right bolts for the front and back rails. I seem to recall that at least some of the bolts on the back rail are different than the ones used to attach the front rail.

If none of that works, I think your only remedies are to contact Delta customer support or return the saw.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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WhyMe

910 posts in 1399 days


#5 posted 11-11-2016 11:33 PM

You must have something setup wrong. My fence has only 1/16” of play pushing and pulling back and forth from front to rear with the lock handle held in the full upright unlock position. Is the metal clip at the back rail perhaps bent out of shape where it’s not getting a tight grab on the rail. Do you have the rear clip pulled forward towards the locking handle as far as it will go?

Edit: Just for a reference the distance from the back of the square tube to the outer edge of the back fence on my saw is 29-1/2”. The distance between the face of the nylon slide pads on the “T” to the inside of the rear clip is a little less than 29-5/8”. When I tighten the lock handle the rear clip pulls tight to the rear rail. The fence is going to have some play in it when unlocked because the “T” only rides on one side of the tube. I think part of the problem may be you don’t understand how the fence is suppose to work. It’s just not a simple slide and clamp, you will need to finesse it into place at times.

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knotscott

7787 posts in 3213 days


#6 posted 11-12-2016 12:00 AM

The movement at the end of the fence is likely a non-issue, and comes up quite often. Yanking a t-sqaure front locking fence from the back end only proves the laws of leverage. Your Ridgid fence was a dual locking design that’s very different than the Delta’s (and has a different set of disadvantages). The real world lateral forces on your fence will occur just before the blade….not at the back end. If you want to test real world movement of your fence during a cut, try pushing laterally on the fence just in front of the blade (with the fence locked down)....odds are good that it’ll barely move, and you’;re good to go. If that’s not the case, then there are some other issues to address.

There are some techniques and adjustments you can make to deal with sloppiness when you move it.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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optimusprimer92

21 posts in 400 days


#7 posted 11-16-2016 03:52 AM

Thanks for all the help guys! I took all the advice and tested everything out. Here is what I came up with:

-I didn’t know you could nudge the metal clip on the back of the fence backwards. I did so and it rode much tighter to the rail.
-Another problem is that the front was higher by about 1/16” no matter how I set the rails. They only have so much room to give at the slots and even at the extremes, the front was always higher. This caused some binding towards the rear. I fixed this by putting a piece of plastic shim between the metal clip and the white plastic runner at the back. This caused the force from the front lever to be more in line with the fence (it was pulling up in the rear at first)

Now for the biggest problem, which unfortunately I don’t think can be fixed. When the fence is tightened down around 5” or so, the left side of the fence contacts the left rail and the right contacts the right. When the fence is tightened, the force causes deflection in the fence…the left side flexes the left rail backwards due to the 2 piece design. I have tried everything but every time I tighten the fence at a distance less than around 5”, the fence alignment skews off by about 1/64” or a little more. It is right on if it is contacting the whole single part of the rail but the other side flexes. Frustrating, but what can a guy do? Anyways, thanks for all your help!

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Runner

42 posts in 611 days


#8 posted 11-16-2016 05:11 PM

I used to have the same problem with the two piece design. I clamped a long straight edge to the rails before tightening it down. Now my fence is perfect.

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WhyMe

910 posts in 1399 days


#9 posted 11-17-2016 03:46 AM

I’m not sure what the problem is that you are having. Do you realize that the extruded sides of the fence can be adjusted? I had a difference between the front and rear of the fence to the surface of the top which was due to the sides not being attached to the main fence bar to be parallel to the top surface. I don’t think you should have to shim the back end to raise the fence off the top.

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#10 posted 11-17-2016 05:28 PM


Now for the biggest problem, which unfortunately I don t think can be fixed. When the fence is tightened down around 5” or so, the left side of the fence contacts the left rail and the right contacts the right. When the fence is tightened, the force causes deflection in the fence…the left side flexes the left rail backwards due to the 2 piece design. I have tried everything but every time I tighten the fence at a distance less than around 5”, the fence alignment skews off by about 1/64” or a little more. It is right on if it is contacting the whole single part of the rail but the other side flexes. Frustrating, but what can a guy do? Anyways, thanks for all your help!

- optimusprimer92

You may be over tightening the fence lock. It just needs to be snug and doesn’t need a death grip on the rail. You should not need to push it all the way down to get it to lock in place. I had never noticed what you described on my saw so went out and checked. On mine, the fence locks securely once the lever is about parallel to the ground. Only when I crank the lever below this can I detect even the slightest deflection between the halves of the front rail. Even then, it only amounts to about 3 to 5 thousandths at the back of the fence when comparing the T only on the right half versus straddling the joint. Make sure that all of the bolts on the underside of the rail are snug.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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optimusprimer92

21 posts in 400 days


#11 posted 12-11-2016 01:47 AM

I am at my wits end with this thing. I have been messing around with this troubled machine for the past month and still cannot get it right. I finally got the t rail wobble figured out (end closest to handle) but cannot for the life of me get the back of the fence to lock down. I have tried different mounting heights for the rails and have mated the 2 sections of the rail tube as well as can be expected with as little edge as possible. When I tighten down the cam (I have played around with the lever tension ALOT) the back of the fence comes up about 1/32” of an inch and makes a clunk sound. No matter where the cam hits in relation to preferred tension, the back of the fence keeps wanting to come up a little. This causes it to be loose at the back and move either direction at least 1/16” of an inch and in some cases up to 1/8” with slight pressure. I have adjusted the rail screws up and down as far as I am capable but cannot get the rail to lock tightly. I am about ready to scrap this stupid thing!!!

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#12 posted 12-11-2016 04:02 AM

Post a picture or two of the back of the fence when you have it locked down

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View TWDuke's profile

TWDuke

9 posts in 701 days


#13 posted 03-03-2017 11:33 AM



I am at my wits end with this thing. I have been messing around with this troubled machine for the past month and still cannot get it right.

- optimusprimer92

I had terrible problems with my split rail when the saw was new. No matter what I did, the right side of the left rail would always be about 3/64s closer to the table. I called Delta’s support and they wasted no time sending me a one piece rail. It solved that problem immediately.

My strong recommendation is to call them today, describe the problem(s) in detail and the steps you’ve taken
taken to try and solve them. If they are still as helpful, you’ll have new parts soon.

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

989 posts in 2813 days


#14 posted 03-03-2017 12:02 PM

All of the locking occurs at front rail/tube. If llocking fence causes rear to lift, something is wrong in the rail/tube orientation to the table top or in the fence head/cam mechanism. As been said in prior replies, the rear of fence does not lock…it just rides on the rail. However, when you lock the fence, the rear should not be lifting up.

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liamtoh1

47 posts in 339 days


#15 posted 03-03-2017 12:18 PM



-Another problem is that the front was higher by about 1/16” no matter how I set the rails. They only have so much room to give at the slots and even at the extremes, the front was always higher. This caused some binding towards the rear. I fixed this by putting a piece of plastic shim between the metal clip and the white plastic runner at the back. This caused the force from the front lever to be more in line with the fence (it was pulling up in the rear at first)
- optimusprimer92

I had the same issue when my front of the T-square was higher than the back. The only was it was fixed was that I reinstalled the wings and the rails. After that the issue with the T-square went away. Now the T-square can glide easily and locks down (I have to push the lever waay down) pretty well without any movement.

The wings and the rails (front and back) bolt holes have very slight (less than 1/16”) play. So, unless all of them are just right, you may see issues with your T-square fence.

Before re-assembly, all my wings and rails were perfectly level but I was still had the same issue you mentioned. So, if everything else fails, try to re-assemble the wings, rails. Make sure to re-read thetinman’s 1st review again.

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