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Forum topic by Franksawn posted 11-08-2016 07:03 PM 449 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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Franksawn

12 posts in 920 days


11-08-2016 07:03 PM

I have a customer who wants 10” deep floating shelves that are 4ft long and one that is 6ft long. My idea was to rip a hollow core door and screw a cleat to the wall. Is this sturdy enough or is there a better way? It doesn’t need to hold a set of encylopedias but I don’t want it to sag either. Also, the wall has metal studs. I want to avoid getting a steel bracket with protruding rods as I have numerous shelves and they are quite expensive.


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Mikenln

13 posts in 612 days


#1 posted 11-09-2016 12:57 AM

I don’t understand your “cleat”. What I imagine would hold the back of the shelf up but the front would tip down. If your shelves have a brace underneath to prevent tipping then cleats to hold them up would work. The braces would not need to be attached to the wall.
A hollow core door might be a good starting point but I think that you would have to attach some solid material where you cut the door. That would be hard for me to do.
I can easily make a hollow shelf using thin (Baltic birch) plywood shins with hardwood around the edges and pieces cut from dimensional lumber as spacers. Look for “torsion box” for the basic idea. You don’t need to be too careful about the spacers. They don’t need to touch each other. They don’t need to be very thick. They certainly don’t need to be notched. The top to bottom distance should be consistent. I cut thin spacers out of scrap material on my bandsaw, just thick enough to not tip over. The top to bottom distance is set by cutting all of the spacers and the edge material on my table saw at the same time.
Or use the manufactured edge of the door against the wall and add a decorative edge to free edge. The advantage is that the attachment doesn’t need to be strong.

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