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Some questions about NYW Deluxe Router Table

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Forum topic by Vrtigo1 posted 07-15-2010 10:43 PM 2771 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vrtigo1

434 posts in 2454 days


07-15-2010 10:43 PM

I’m sure this has been covered, but I searched and only came up with one thread from a little over a year ago that didn’t answer the questions I have. Two primary questions are if you’ve built it using Norm’s plans, what was your total project cost, and how difficult was it?

I’ve been going back and forth between trying to build this and just buying something commercially available, but I think I would really rather go the custom route. Some of the reviews of the plans I’ve seen on sites such as Rockler and Amazon say that the measured drawing leaves something to be desired and the level of skill required is pretty high.

I’m just getting started at woodworking and have some projects I’d like to build, but I need a router table before I can get started on them. I’m not too worried about needing tools to get the job done, because I know I’ll always find uses for anything I have to buy, but I’m concerned about actually having the skills necessary to get it done.


11 replies so far

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 2386 days


#1 posted 07-15-2010 10:52 PM

I built my router table from a vanity I bought at Lowes. Built the tops myself. 2×4 melamine. The top raises on a piano hinge on the back for easy access. It has drawer space for the bits etc. and bottom storage. I mounted it on casters and it has served me well for several years(except I change the top every time I get some brainstorm)
It works very well. I originally built my fences but have since graduated to an Incra LS system. Without the Incra I have less than a hundred in it.
Norms table looks very nice and if you have the time to build one,go for it.

-- Life is good.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2657 days


#2 posted 07-16-2010 01:08 AM

Greetings Vrtigo1,

I built Norm’s router station about 2 years ago…. I ordered the DVD and plans from the NYW…
The measured drawing is easy to follow if you know how to read plans, and the DVD is very helpful as you
can go back and review if necessary over and over. I followed the plans to the letter and didn’t deviate much. It was a fun project to do, and I worked pretty steady on it…I think the plans and DVD was about $25(?) You’ll need about 2-3 sheets of good 3/4” ply, and 1-2 sheets of 1/2” ply..You might get by with 1 sheet of 1/2”, but I don’t remember.. The 1/2” is mainly for the drawer sides, and 1/4” ply for the bottoms. I bought the kit that they have(star knobs, bolts, Ttracks,etc.) It was around $90.00. You’ll need a sheet of laminant (your color choice) for the top and fence sections. That’s about all I can think of right now… Oh… and casters ( I used 3” on mine).... So…. I’d say around $200—250 should get you a great router that you’ll never have to re-place….. Oh…. One other change I made to Norms set-up….. I used 4” for dust collection for the top and bottom….. he only used 2 1/2”...... way tooo small. Here’s a pixs of mine finished.

This might give you some idea if you want to build it….. I think this project would be for the advanced woodworker…....

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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surfin2

51276 posts in 2599 days


#3 posted 07-16-2010 07:15 AM

If your just getting started then you don’t have scraps laying around to put this together real cheap. With all the wood, bits, t-track. t-bolts etc your better off buying the top & later building the cabinet for it.

A counter top will work just fine. Put something together & use that for awhile then check out the RT’s here & see what features you like & can’t live without & add them 2 your RT. There’s alot of great RT’s, Norm’s version here! They took his plans & varied them to fit there need’s.

I bought his plan’s, DVD & the kit & they all suck… his plans are half ass, the DVD isn’t much help either! The kit is even a bigger joke. I could only use the power switch 6 t-bolts- 4star knobs (I used t-track to slide the fence) & the miter track. I used 1/4 t-bolts (mini t-track) for the fence & I can’t find feather boards that take 5/16 T-bolts, so all the star knobs & t-bolts that are 5/16 I can’t use. Plus the plastic piece for the dust collection that goes on the back of the fence, that dosn’t fit either, its bad enough that its 2 1//2 but the holes in the plastic don’t line up with the holes for the fence… That plastic piece also has a lip on the back of it makes it not fit right. There’s nothing in the plans that tells you any thing about it except for the 3 1/2×1/2 MDF that you put behind the center of the fence. To make it fit right you have to put a slight bevel on the back piece. I went over every thing to make sure it wasn’t me & it sure as hell wasn’t, I can read but these plans just plain suck…

Nobody ever mentioned how they cut up there t-track. I used a Roto- Zip with a metal cutting blade & it cut it like a knife thru butter. When I routed for the t-track for my fence in the table I squared off the ends with my Dremel…

-- Rick

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Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2657 days


#4 posted 07-16-2010 06:24 PM

Greetings Rick, (Catchy name isn’t it?) I have to agree with you on a couple of items here regarding the router table, but beg to differ on a couple of more….Now the DVD I could of done without, cause if you watched the regular show, it’s pretty much the same….The DVD just adds a couple of things, which really didn’t matter. The plans (he called it a measured drawing) were not that hard to follow, for me anyway. I found they were pretty well spot-on as far as fitting the parts, once cut. You’re certainly correct on the kit…..I realized after I bought it, I could have got the parts cheaper by just ordering from somewhere like Rockler, or Woodworkers supply. I just used a slot cutter to make the slots in the fences, and like you, used 1/4” toilet bolts…Works good… BUT….I have to give you a +1 on the dust collection…. it sucked royaly…. I didn’t even try to use the crap they sent for that..
I wanted 4” d.c, so I built a box (look at my post and pixs above), and 4” hole for the lower d.c…..Works much better…That set-up Norm had was pretty bad, so I shit-canned that idea real quick.. I used a 3/8” spiral bit to cut the slots for the fence to ride back and forth on, and t-bolts and knobs, of course for locking the fence. To cut the miter track, I just set up my dado blades once the top was finished, and cut that on the tablesaw…easy. I did a forum topic on this about a month ago (“A new make-over for Norm’s r.t and d.c”) So.. yes and no…..Some of it was half-assed and the rest was not bad….So I guess we agree to disagree…lol

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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surfin2

51276 posts in 2599 days


#5 posted 07-17-2010 03:53 AM

Here’s the only other person that said anything bad about these plans & they hit it right on the money…
10) Submitted by Angela , from Burbank, CA on 4/6/2008
Customer Rating: Customer Review Rating: 1.0
I had purchased a bench top router table but I quickly out grew that and I wanted to do more so I started looking at various cabinet style tables. I’m the type of person that can draw up my own plans and make whatever it is. I’ve only purchased one other set of plans. It was for a large tool storage cabinet. It was from Finewoodworking magazine and the plans very good but I never used them because it didn’t fit what I needed so I created my own plans. I searched on the web for router cabinets that others have built. This
was very useful. Then I saw Norm’s plans. I decided to purchase them from Rockler; at the time it was 50 % off for the plans and video. All I can say is I’m glad I didn’t pay full price for this. I can see why many have commented that it was challenging to make – these plans are horrible. I don’t think the video could have been worse, maybe if it was in black and white. The plans are missing things and in the video he doesn’t cover numerous topics he should have covered. Don’t get me wrong – the router table is nice it’s the plans and video that are useless. It’s better to do a search on the web and see what others have made. If you still want to waste your money and purchase this item, be advised in the video Norm uses the following tools: a router table – yes that right, special router bits(1/4” Roundover, Chamfer, T-slot), table saw, dado blade, taper jig, circular saw, jigsaw, drill press, hand drill, Forstner bit, hole saw, brad nailer, spindle sander, belt sander, laminate roller, cabinet clamps, large straight edge clamp, biscuit cutter, and several other misc. items.
Good luck and happy building!

-- Rick

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richgreer

4541 posts in 2537 days


#6 posted 07-17-2010 03:11 PM

In general, I think most commercially made router tables are over priced and not worth it. My answer is, in effect, a hybrid between DIY and commercial.

I recommend making your own table and adding a commercial fence. I think the Freud fence is great. I also recommend buying a really good router lift system with micro adjustments. I use the Woodpecker E-Z lift.

When building your own table, I highly recommend enclosing the router in a cabinet for dust and chip catching purposes.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View mikedddd's profile

mikedddd

146 posts in 2693 days


#7 posted 07-17-2010 06:03 PM

Here are some pictures of mine, not exatly a Norm table but along the same line.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/32331

-- Mike

View tooldad's profile

tooldad

660 posts in 3178 days


#8 posted 07-17-2010 06:22 PM

If you are just starting out, build yourself a bare bones/neanderthal version that won’t take you long or cost you much. This will allow you to find out what you use the most, learn how you would use it. You can always think about upgrades as you are using it. This will allow you to build a new one once your skills have improved. Plus to build a nice one, you need a router table anyway.

I have the wolfcraft tables from home depot, cost about $50. Still need a workbench to set it on. Another good cheapie to start with is the ryobi table, for about $100. Get the one without the router and add your own. It is a little better, they have one for $100 including a router. Plus you could use the fence form the purchased one before you take the time to build your own, and it keeps you routing at the same time.

I have some of both. I have been teaching for 12 years, and woodworking alot longer, I am just now getting ready to build my first norm table. When it comes to tools, get function first, then looks later.

View Vrtigo1's profile

Vrtigo1

434 posts in 2454 days


#9 posted 07-18-2010 08:07 PM

Thanks for all the responses, lots of great info! Mikedddd, looks like on yours you decided to omit the Y in the DC hose and just ran the hose from the fence down into the router compartment where you put a 4” connector. Does that work well?

As far as getting a basic commercial table such as the Ryboi or Wolfcraft, do I need to worry about router fit? I picked up a secondhand Porter Cable 698 table for $40 on Craigslist, but then realized that my Hitachi M12V’s bolt pattern doesn’t line up :(

As far as going simple first and progressing later, which do you think is better, 1) getting a cheaper commercial table for approx $100, or 2) buying an aluminum insert for my router and building a very basic table around it from MDF or melamine? I figure the cost will probably be about the same either way, maybe a bit more going the build route when figuring in hardware for the fence, but the insert from the second option could be reused down the road. Any reasons not to go this way?

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2657 days


#10 posted 07-18-2010 08:21 PM

Greetings again, Vrtigo1,

If you have the Hitachi M12V like I have in my table, you can get an aluminum plate from Rockler.
These plates are already pre-drilled to fit different routers, and they have one pre-drilled to fit the M12V

That’s where I got mine from, plus the leveling screws come w/ the plate, too…...
Once you decide which way you want to go building the r.t., just cut out the hole for the plate on the top..
As far as the table goes, I’d build the best one I could now, so you won’t have to build it over down the road.
“Build it cheap now, or build it over again, later”........

Edit: These router plates from Rockler are good solid 1/4” plates that won’t give out on you….


-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View mikedddd's profile

mikedddd

146 posts in 2693 days


#11 posted 07-18-2010 08:39 PM

Yes the dust collection works quite well on my table, here are a couple of better pictures of the inside.

Photobucket
Photobucket

After I added the door on the front I found that I didn’t need to adjust the damper on the inside, I just leave it open about an inch now and there is enough restriction through the lattice to keep good suction at the fence.

-- Mike

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