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Removing Grizzly bandsaw Spring Pin

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Forum topic by Steven H posted 07-15-2010 02:06 AM 2211 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


07-15-2010 02:06 AM

For those who has the grizzly G0555, how do you remove the Spring pin on the table insert?
The pin is locking the table insert.

I am installing the blade.

Should I use a pin punch and hammer?


14 replies so far

View lew's profile

lew

11348 posts in 3223 days


#1 posted 07-15-2010 03:58 PM

My band saw is not a Grizzly (it’s a Bridgewood- made from the same mold). The spring pin on mine is more of a locator pin that keeps the insert form spinning. My insert is removed by pushing up, from the underside of the table, right at the blade removal slot in the table. I thought the spring pin was to remain in the table.

Hope this helps.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5609 posts in 2699 days


#2 posted 07-15-2010 04:05 PM

My HF Band saw is set up the same way as Lew’s. Mind you, most of these 14” “C” frame band saws came off the same molds, so it should be pretty similar…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View vicrider's profile

vicrider

179 posts in 2366 days


#3 posted 07-15-2010 04:14 PM

Do you mean the pin at the side of the table? I pry mine out with a claw hammer. Just don’t tap it in too hard when you are replacing it.

-- vicrider

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#4 posted 07-15-2010 07:18 PM

I feel like complete retard.
I pushed the table insert from under table, it pops out.
Thought the pin was connecting to the insert.

View Jack Barnhill's profile

Jack Barnhill

366 posts in 2833 days


#5 posted 07-15-2010 07:39 PM

I installed the table on my new G0555P last night. The table insert was a very tight fit. So tight that I couldn’t push it back in by hand. I took a file and gently cleaned up the edges until I could push the insert back into the table with a little but not too much effort.

-- Best regards, Jack -- I may not be good, but I'm slow -- www.BarnhillWoodworks.com

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#6 posted 07-16-2010 01:57 AM

Jack how is your band saw doing?

I had trouble with tracking the blade, but eventually I solved the problem.
Now I have to adjust the guides, etc…

View Jack Barnhill's profile

Jack Barnhill

366 posts in 2833 days


#7 posted 07-16-2010 02:25 AM

HI Steven, How’s it going? My saw is completely together. The basic saw that is. I still have the riser block to install. The basic configuration works fine. The stock blade is just ok but I didn’t buy any premium blades for the standard configuration.

I may install the riser block tomorrow and one of the Timber Wolf blades. Then I’ll complete the fine tuning and try various test cuts.

I was surprised how quite and vibration free this saw is compared to my old 12” Delta ShopMaster.

How’s your new saw so far?

-- Best regards, Jack -- I may not be good, but I'm slow -- www.BarnhillWoodworks.com

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#8 posted 07-16-2010 08:45 PM

I really like the bandsaw, worth the money than ridgid bandsaw.
Grizzly blade that came with it barely can cut oak. Ill get a better blade.
I am also surprise its quite and no vibration.

View Jack Barnhill's profile

Jack Barnhill

366 posts in 2833 days


#9 posted 07-17-2010 09:28 AM

I knew the Grizzly blade wouldn’t be any good going into this so I ordered 4 new Timber Wolf blades for use with the riser block the same day I ordered the saw.

I made a few test cuts on 1-1/2” red oak. It cut a 3/32” and a 1/16” slice and, another slice at about 1/20” with no hesitation and a consistent thickness for the 7” scarp I had.

I also made a few test re-saw cuts on 10-1/2” X 24” soft maple. The board was not flat (cupped) to begin with and I don’t have a true re-saw fence yet (I used the 2” fence that came with the saw) and I had to take these cuts slower but. I was quite pleased with the cuts.

Tomorrow, I may order a WoodSlicer blade. I understand they make an even smoother re-saw cut.

-- Best regards, Jack -- I may not be good, but I'm slow -- www.BarnhillWoodworks.com

View Kathy's profile

Kathy

210 posts in 2389 days


#10 posted 07-18-2010 01:12 PM

As long as this subject is on here I have a question too. We ordered the G0555P and expect it to arrive this week. As rookies, beginners, non-mechanics, etc. how much trouble are we going to have putting this thing together?

And also it dawns on me that we ordered the riser kit to go along with it, but will we need a different saw blade for that since it is going to be higher?

Oh boy, not looking forward to this!

-- curious woodworker

View Jack Barnhill's profile

Jack Barnhill

366 posts in 2833 days


#11 posted 07-18-2010 04:42 PM

IMO, it shouldn’t be difficult to set up the saw in the standard configuration. Just read the instructions thoroughly. I believe they cover everything, albeit not in quite as much detail as they could but, the assembly is pretty straight forward.

The only things that I remember that was not covered by the instructions were for installing the fence. The large rail that mounts on the front of the table should be mounted using the lower pair of holes on the table. And, the instructions do not mention to install the Adjustment Screw at the far end of the fence. It glides along the top of the small rail at the back side of the table and keeps the fence from dragging along the top of the table.

You will need a longer blade (105”) for use with the riser block. The Riser Block Kit comes with a blade. It’s just not a very good blade.

Installing the riser block was also straight forward. I was able to manage it easily by myself but would highly recommend having someone to assist with the removing and replacing the upper arm. One thing I might mention is that the riser block comes with the word “UP” and an arrow cast into one side. That is self explanatory. The riser block will fit with with “UP” on either side. But, because of how the block is pinned to fit on the saw, it will look and fit much better if the Riser Block is installed with the word “UP” on the side where the motor is located.

I first installed mine the opposite way and when I noticed that the Riser Block was offset from the saw frame I have to remove the upper arm again and turn the block around.

The biggest challenge I had was getting the saw blade on the wheels after I installed the Riser Block. The blade is 105” and the distance around the wheels on my saw was 105-1/2”. I called Grizzly but they couldn’t help since they had never encountered the problem. I ended up having to adjust the tensioner as indicated in the instructions as if I had a blade of the wrong size. I checked, the blades were all correct.

I hope I didn’t confuse you or make you worry unduly. It is really pretty straight forward.

If you do run into problems, Grizzly Tech Support is usually very helpful, or you can ask questions here, or you can PM me and I will see if I can walk you through it.

-- Best regards, Jack -- I may not be good, but I'm slow -- www.BarnhillWoodworks.com

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#12 posted 07-18-2010 07:33 PM

Jack Nailed it down

I did some studying before buying my first bandsaw, I suggest you getting these books.

View Kathy's profile

Kathy

210 posts in 2389 days


#13 posted 07-18-2010 11:22 PM

Thanks for the tips on books. I have a couple others that have been recommended on my wish list at Amazon.

We do have a friend nearby who can help with the saw if we get stuck.

And I know I can come on here. You guys know it all!!!! ( and I mean “guys” as generic woodworkers. :)

-- curious woodworker

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 2390 days


#14 posted 07-19-2010 12:42 AM

Kathy: I have a grizz 555 extreme and love it. My only suggestion is to follow the instructions to the letter and be sure to double check the set up for the blocks. Do this and you will be very happy with your choice.

-- Life is good.

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