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Forum topic by Apjow posted 11-04-2016 12:57 PM 695 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Apjow

23 posts in 407 days


11-04-2016 12:57 PM

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could help me. I just bought a King Industrial cabinet saw and when I start it up without a blade it works fine, bu once I put on the blade it will stop after 1 second. The breaker has not been tripped, I’ve adjusted the v-belt correctly (as far as I know). What could be the issue?
Thanks to anyone who can help.


15 replies so far

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

910 posts in 1399 days


#1 posted 11-04-2016 02:07 PM

The only difference is the load that the blade creates so it appears you have a motor problem or perhaps a voltage drop issue. Have you checked the voltage being supplied at the saw? Are you using a long undersized extension cord? Could be a defective start/run capacitor on the motor.

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MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#2 posted 11-04-2016 06:46 PM

What do you mean by “stop after 1 second”? Does the blade stop but the motor keeps spinning? Does the motor just stop dead? Does the motor stop, but sound like it’s struggling to spin? Is it tripping the overload? Have you verified the machine is wired properly for the voltage you are using? Without knowing much more, it’s kind of hard to determine where the problem may exist.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Apjow

23 posts in 407 days


#3 posted 11-04-2016 09:44 PM

The motor just stops. I press start, the blade spins at normal starting speed, and then it stops. 1 second of run time.I rewired the saw to run at 120v, I installed a 30 amp breaker which was not tripped. I checked the voltage and everything seems alright, I’ve plugged the saw into the wall and extension chord with the same results. I’ve been adjusting the v-belt (I called the company and they said it might be due to the motor bracket being taken of and the cap screws not being put back properly). But what I don’t understand is why it would work without the blade and not with.
Thanks

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WhyMe

910 posts in 1399 days


#4 posted 11-04-2016 10:46 PM

Not related to saw stopping but a red flag is when you say you have it on a 120V circuit with a 30A breaker. A 120V general purpose circuit and outlet should be no more than 15A or 20A. Back to the motor, sounds like you rewired it wrong and is stopping because the blade is causing an overload and the motor has internal overload protection.

Back to the 30A breaker. Is that circuit wired with #10 wire and the outlet and plug rated for 30A?

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teejk02

476 posts in 963 days


#5 posted 11-04-2016 11:37 PM



Not related to saw stopping but a red flag is when you say you have it on a 120V circuit with a 30A breaker. A 120V general purpose circuit and outlet should be no more than 15A or 20A. Back to the motor, sounds like you rewired it wrong and is stopping because the blade is causing an overload and the motor has internal overload protection.

Back to the 30A breaker. Is that circuit wired with #10 wire and the outlet and plug rated for 30A?

- WhyMe

gotta be careful when you opine on electrical stuff here (and I’m sure you’ll hear about it soon)! I’m not a sparky but have been beaten around the head and neck before. The breaker and wire size is meant to protect the wiring up to the point of connection and from my several beatings I have learned that you cannot oversize that part. If the OP is getting “stalls” then I would guess it is in the motor itself.

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eflanders

219 posts in 1688 days


#6 posted 11-04-2016 11:38 PM

Is this a brand-new saw or did you buy it used? I had a similar issue once when I rewired my band saw from 120 to 240. It turned out, that despite what the manual said, the motor supplied was not truly meant for this wiring configuration and thus when I powered it up, it did exactly the same thing as your saw is doing. After trying a new start capacitor, I ultimately put in a new motor. The band saw always ran fine on 120 beforehand. But after switching to 240 per the owners manual instructions, it wouldn’t run again properly on either voltage. I was advised by a motor rewind service that the wiring instructions I was supplied were wrong. They said it is a fairly common problem with the imported motors from Asia. The motor had to be rebuilt at a cost similar to a new replacement, so I got a replacement.

View Loren's profile

Loren

9631 posts in 3486 days


#7 posted 11-04-2016 11:42 PM

Bypass the switch and test.

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

613 posts in 746 days


#8 posted 11-05-2016 12:21 AM



Bypass the switch and test.

- Loren

+1

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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teejk02

476 posts in 963 days


#9 posted 11-05-2016 12:26 AM

I’d never heard of King Industrial so I looked it up…they don’t list a cabinet saw in their product catalog (looks like mostly cordless tools). Is this a universal motor such that the brushes are bad?

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teejk02

476 posts in 963 days


#10 posted 11-05-2016 12:27 AM

dupe..

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

910 posts in 1399 days


#11 posted 11-05-2016 02:38 AM


Not related to saw stopping but a red flag is when you say you have it on a 120V circuit with a 30A breaker. A 120V general purpose circuit and outlet should be no more than 15A or 20A. Back to the motor, sounds like you rewired it wrong and is stopping because the blade is causing an overload and the motor has internal overload protection.

Back to the 30A breaker. Is that circuit wired with #10 wire and the outlet and plug rated for 30A?

- WhyMe
gotta be careful when you opine on electrical stuff here (and I m sure you ll hear about it soon)! I m not a sparky but have been beaten around the head and neck before. The breaker and wire size is meant to protect the wiring up to the point of connection and from my several beatings I have learned that you cannot oversize that part. If the OP is getting “stalls” then I would guess it is in the motor itself.

- teejk02

Duh…. that’s what I said. The 30A breaker and circuit wire size is a separate issue.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1089 posts in 3451 days


#12 posted 11-05-2016 03:45 AM

Here’s your clue…

I rewired the saw to run at 120v

Check that rewiring!

And, if the saw had a motor controller, you do realize that the saw will draw 2X current at 110V, right? Does the saw have a motor controller with overcurrent protection? You might have to upsize the current detection to prevent trips.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

8323 posts in 1324 days


#13 posted 11-05-2016 04:21 AM



Here s your clue…

I rewired the saw to run at 120v

Check that rewiring!

And, if the saw had a motor controller, you do realize that the saw will draw 2X current at 110V, right? Does the saw have a motor controller with overcurrent protection? You might have to upsize the current detection to prevent trips.

- EEngineer

He may be on to something.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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WhyMe

910 posts in 1399 days


#14 posted 11-05-2016 01:31 PM

Are you in Canada? I looked at the manual for that brand saw and see that it’s Canadian. I assume you put in a dedicated 30A 120V circuit for the saw as the manual instructs. Also the instructions say to change the saw to 120V by following the wiring diagram on the motor and does not reference any other changes are needed. The only thing I can suggest is to go back and make sure you made the correct wiring changes at the motor.

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Apjow

23 posts in 407 days


#15 posted 11-05-2016 02:48 PM

I figured it out, I think. Well the table was a floor model which is poorly set up (my fault for not properly verifying EVERY nut and bolt). So I took the whole thing apart and put it back and properly fastened everything, double checked, and triple checked. Now it works great. Worth saving 500$! Thanks so much for all your help.

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