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Bandsaw tracking issue

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Forum topic by Ironwing_1 posted 11-04-2016 02:46 AM 551 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ironwing_1

11 posts in 1791 days


11-04-2016 02:46 AM

Hey all… My kids are finally getting big enough that I’m starting to have more time in the workshop and I’m trying to get caught up on some old projects. I’m hoping some of you experts here could give me some advice on some trouble I’m having with my bandsaw (14” delta with riser block).

In short, I’m having tracking issues. I’m trying to get my 3/4” resaw blade back on the saw but can’t get it to stay centered on the wheels. If I take down the tension all the way, I can shove it all the way to the backs of the wheels so that it’s back is almost rubbing the guards. It stays there if turned by hand but once under tension at the slightest prompting it comes back to the front and wants to ride the middle of the blade right on the edge of the aluminum wheel. The wheels seem to be in alignment using a straightedge but no amount of fidgeting with the top wheel adjustment knob in the back will persuade it to behave.

I’m not seeing this problem with my narrower blades.

I’m wondering whether the front/tooth edge of the 3/4” blade got stretched and now the blade is a smidgin bigger on one side than the other. Before anyone says that’s unlikely, I’ll own up to an embarrassing recent episode where I was too insistently trying to resaw some walnut with that same 3/4” blade that wasn’t as sharp as it should have been and I ended up actually melting the tires (since replaced). Yes, I’m a big ol’ dummy and should have known better.

I’ll gladly get a new blade if that’s whats necessary but at this point I’m interested in the answer for academic reasons.

Thoughts?


9 replies so far

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MrUnix

5990 posts in 2035 days


#1 posted 11-04-2016 03:26 AM

3/4” is really pushing that saw hard… and even more so with a riser block. I’d first check your tilt/tension mechanism first to make sure you haven’t bent or broken it. It’s a weak point on those saws and frequently go wonky when trying to use wide blades that it can’t really properly tension.

And if you haven’t already, watch the obligatory bandsaw tune up video:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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AHuxley

652 posts in 3157 days


#2 posted 11-04-2016 03:45 AM

MrUnix is referencing the tracking arm which is indeed the achilles heel of the 14” Delta it is triangular part in the lower right of this picture.

If it is indeed bent, Iturra sells replacements as well as a beefed up version he designed.

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MrUnix

5990 posts in 2035 days


#3 posted 11-04-2016 03:51 AM

MrUnix is referencing the tracking arm which is indeed the achilles heel of the 14” Delta it is triangular part in the lower right of this picture.
- AHuxley

LOL – that is a picture I took of my Delta bandsaw from when I did it’s restoration :)
I separated all the major sections and did photos like the one above for reference.

Note: The arm above was painted… they are typically not painted when they leave the factory.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Ironwing_1

11 posts in 1791 days


#4 posted 11-04-2016 04:11 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. This saw has an upgraded motor, carter bearing guides but I haven’t done anything to the tracking arm, didn’t know it still had a glass jaw. I will certainly look into it.

Any thoughts on the geometry of the blade?

Also: Recommendations on tracking down this Iturra doodad? I’ve heard great things about Iturra products but there doesn’t seem to be any convenient way of getting your eyes, let alone hands on them.

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teejk02

476 posts in 961 days


#5 posted 11-05-2016 07:55 PM

You might also want to check the lower pulley if you haven’t already done so. I think they have a tendency to loosen up and start “walking” off the shaft (mine did and I don’t think I was alone in mentioning it).

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Ironwing_1

11 posts in 1791 days


#6 posted 11-15-2016 03:22 AM

Mr Unix, great post for that video, very educational. I never knew that the teeth should be centered on the tire, I was always taught the entire blade should be centered. I got the 3/4” resaw blade thinking that would provide a straighter cut and stand up to higher tension, but if that video is accurate then a 1/2” blade is the max this saw can take.

I’ve pulled the upper wheel and the tracking arm seems fine. No cracks, doesn’t look bent. I did notice that the upper axle had a little bit of wiggle in it, but in removing the arm I see that the axle isn’t really firmly attached so maybe this is normal?

Thanks all for the help, this has been super educational.

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rwe2156

2711 posts in 1316 days


#7 posted 11-15-2016 04:56 PM

I would start with a new 1/2” resaw blade & adjust tracking with the guides totally disengaged.

And don’t kill yourself trying to duplicate Snodgrass’ “no drift” idea.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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MrUnix

5990 posts in 2035 days


#8 posted 11-15-2016 05:29 PM

I’ve pulled the upper wheel and the tracking arm seems fine. No cracks, doesn’t look bent. I did notice that the upper axle had a little bit of wiggle in it, but in removing the arm I see that the axle isn’t really firmly attached so maybe this is normal?
- Ironwing_1

Yes, it’s normal. The upper wheel shaft is held in place via the pin that engages a notch cut in the back of it (middle right in the picture above). When you put the wheel on and tighten the nut, it pulls the shaft tight up against the pin, removing any play. When the wheel is off, it will flop around like a fish out of water, since there is no longer any force pulling it against that pin.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Ironwing_1

11 posts in 1791 days


#9 posted 11-15-2016 06:00 PM

Super. Thanks guys!

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