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Forum topic by Ted78 posted 11-02-2016 07:18 PM 580 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Ted78's profile


368 posts in 1936 days

11-02-2016 07:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question pine joining modern

So a friend of mine has commissioned me to make a stand to hold some for the best stuff for his record collection, some 45’s and LPs. Just a stand at a comfortable height with recessed area to put the records in LP’s on the left 45’s on the right, maybe a foot deep or so. You could stand and flip through the records. (Think record store)

Ok so on to my question. He wants simple flat sides, no frame and panel etc. My first thought was to build it out of oak veneered plywood or something, but that become A)expensive B) all sorts of work mitering and applying veneer to hide the edges of the plywood C) heavy He’s on a third floor apartment, and D) deep nicks and scratches that add ‘character’ to a solid piece just look bad when they dig through the veneer.

So… I’d like to make it out of pine, I’ll buy some nice straight dry stuff not twisted gnarly construction grade boards but… assuming I’m careful about to design in such a manner that allows for movement where one pieces grain is perpendicular to another, can I glue up a piece of pine one maybe even two feet wide without it twisting and warping and cracking? If not what my options for a clean rectangular box without making it a frame a panel or using plywood or mdf etc.?

-- Ted

8 replies so far

View cabmaker's profile


1707 posts in 2745 days

#1 posted 11-02-2016 09:32 PM

Ted….sounds like the method you talked yourself out of is the better of the two.

View gargey's profile


938 posts in 711 days

#2 posted 11-02-2016 09:44 PM

No. Use plywood. All signs point to your pine idea turning out like a steaming pile of crap that the guy will “accidentally” knock over and break and then burn as firewood and then take the ashes as shit on them.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10012 posts in 3988 days

#3 posted 11-02-2016 10:09 PM

Yes, I agree with the plywood…

You don’t have to get expensive stuff… you can get Poplar, Birch, or Maple faced ply at reasonable prices.

... and you can Finish them to make it look like expensive stuff…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:"

View BenjaminNY's profile


128 posts in 1338 days

#4 posted 11-02-2016 10:41 PM

One foot deep with pine can work. It is very stable if quarter sawn. Two foot deep solid wood with no web frame sounds like a recipe for disaster. If you can design the record dividers to stiffen the case that might work.

But honestly, the plywood option with reinforced miters is definitely the best choice.

View Ted78's profile


368 posts in 1936 days

#5 posted 11-03-2016 04:49 PM

Alright plywood it is. Any advice on the best way to cover up all the exposed edges?

-- Ted

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10012 posts in 3988 days

#6 posted 11-04-2016 10:24 PM

I would cut thin slices A solid wood (1/8”)... and glue / pin’em on…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:"

View Lazyman's profile


1819 posts in 1323 days

#7 posted 11-05-2016 02:49 AM

If you use a nice plywood with minimal voids such as Baltic birch or even a finish grade of pine plywood the edges can actually be decorative. Might not look good if it has a surface veneer that is different than the core though. Also, if you use box joints, that not only gives you stronger joints than metered corners but can can add another level of craftsman where the exposed plies will look nice. If you go with a veneered plywood and want to hide the edges, you can either cut and apply some thin strips from a solid board of the same wood as the surface veneer or just get some edge banding of the same wood to cover the edges.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View DirtyMike's profile


637 posts in 838 days

#8 posted 11-05-2016 02:55 AM

Ban gargey 2016?

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