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Drawer Slides?

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Forum topic by rhybeka posted 11-02-2016 06:35 PM 681 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rhybeka

3555 posts in 2961 days


11-02-2016 06:35 PM

Hi All!

I’ve had a minor setback in my entertainment center / lego display cabinet build and I’m wondering if there’s other perspectives on how to handle this. I have a ~7in area that includes a 70 in. long by 36 in wide 3/4” thick oak ply ‘shelf’ that will be used to hold/display legos. it will go on a set of 30” in drawer slides if/when I can find a pair that won’t break the bank and will fit the purpose. I thought maybe I’m too honed in on using drawer slides. I’m not expecting a lot of weight on this but I know the 3/4 ply by itself isn’t light. Is there something I’m not thinking of that may make more sense than drawer slides?

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.


10 replies so far

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firefighterontheside

16964 posts in 1697 days


#1 posted 11-02-2016 07:22 PM

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tyvekboy

1701 posts in 2853 days


#2 posted 11-02-2016 08:06 PM

I would consider using a shallow dado in the middle of the sides of the drawers about 1/2 way into the sides … or about 3/8 inch deep. For the guide that it slides on would be a piece of plastic 3/4 in wide (or maybe a little less) and a little less than 3/8 inch thick. You may not have the resources that I have so that may not be an option for you. A piece of oak or any other hardwood to those dimensions would also work. Then use a lot of wax on both the dado and guide.

If there is a carcass frame for the entertainment center another option would be to use little wheels just behind the front of the drawer divider (if it’s in the design). These wheels are for inexpensive kitchen drawers and are not that expensive. Because the drawer is so long, I would also put little wheels on the top back corners of the drawer.

You could also do the same thing by imbedding little homemade wheels into the carcass frame and into the back top corners of the drawers.

I’m assuming that you are dividing that 70 inch area into 3 or 4 drawers. I don’t think I would make a drawer 70 X 30 inches.

Sorry I can’t help any more without seeing a drawing of what you are building.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

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rhybeka

3555 posts in 2961 days


#3 posted 11-03-2016 04:29 PM

this might help :) it’s the piece of ply that sticks out the back is the piece I’m asking about

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

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rhybeka

3555 posts in 2961 days


#4 posted 11-03-2016 04:29 PM

Bill, you might be onto something. Asked the mentor if they would work. I don’t understand why they are called tandem. Do they not move individually?

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

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firefighterontheside

16964 posts in 1697 days


#5 posted 11-03-2016 04:59 PM

They would move individually, but as soon as they are both attached to the same drawer, obviously they work together. I believe that’s what tandem refers to. It’s a set of two and cannot be used individually. It appears they attach to the bottom of the drawer. You would need to design your drawer/shelf around them.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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rhybeka

3555 posts in 2961 days


#6 posted 11-04-2016 02:30 AM

I wasn’t really planning on making it drawer like – just facing the front of the ply with a piece of the 3/4” wormy red oak and calling it done.

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

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firefighterontheside

16964 posts in 1697 days


#7 posted 11-04-2016 02:47 AM

It wouldn’t really need sides, but it may sag in the back. The way those slides install will be seen if there are not some at least small pieces under the plywood.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

812 posts in 1281 days


#8 posted 11-04-2016 09:43 AM

Can you live with 28” of travel? These are only $17.00

You may have to build up the edges:

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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rhybeka

3555 posts in 2961 days


#9 posted 11-17-2016 12:57 PM

@Jerry it’s a good thought but I’d like to be able to reach most of the ‘shelf’ since the train track will most likely need to run most of the width of the ply.

@Bill good thought. There’s six inches of support in the front and back under the ply, but I remember Whit saying something about us leaving a 3/8” gap between the two for the front face molding. I could plane down some scrap to 3/8” and put it at intervals on the two supports so when the shelf is in (which will be most of the time) it will rest on those pieces of hardwood.

-- Beka/Becky - aspiring jill of all trades, still learning to not read the directions.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

18643 posts in 2523 days


#10 posted 11-17-2016 04:32 PM

T-track on the sides of the case, with the “T” bolts inbedded into the ends of the shelf. Two bolts on each end should do the trick. Maybe add a third bolt at the 1/2 way point.

Maybe a way to add the “T” bolts to the case’s sides, and put the T-Tracks on the ends of the shelves

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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