Band Saw Trouble

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Forum topic by itsme_timd posted 01-07-2008 05:34 PM 1684 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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690 posts in 3857 days

01-07-2008 05:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question oak maple bandsaw

Looking for some help with a band saw issue. I just got a new 9” Ryobi band saw and I’m having trouble with the blad ‘shifting’ once it enters the workpiece.

When cutting, the blade enters the workpience and then crawls about an 1/8’ to the right, it is not consistent through the entire piece and leaves a convex cut when finished.

I thought it was the tension but I’ve adjusted that up and down with no luck. How tight should this feel for proper tension.

I’ve added a hi-def graphic to show what I’m getting…

-- Tim D. - Woodstock, GA

23 replies so far

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 4326 days

#1 posted 01-07-2008 05:51 PM

That’s called blade drift. It can happen on most saws. If your cutting a fairly thick piece of wood, you’ll also get that bending when your blade isn’t pulling away enough sawdust. You should be using a skip tooth blade for this, because it does it does a better job of clearing sawdust.

Check out this article on band saws.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN.

View mot's profile


4911 posts in 4063 days

#2 posted 01-07-2008 06:07 PM

I think your blade might be deflecting when the cut starts. Make sure you have your guides properly set for the blade. Dick’s link is a good read.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View itsme_timd's profile


690 posts in 3857 days

#3 posted 01-07-2008 06:28 PM

Thanks guys, I’ve downloaded that article to read.

-- Tim D. - Woodstock, GA

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

767 posts in 4200 days

#4 posted 01-07-2008 10:19 PM

Asking a 9” benchtop bandsaw to cut a straight line might be asking too much. You should consider returning it and saving up for a larger floor model. If a new one is definitely out of the budget, try to find one used from Craig’s List or the paper or an estate sale…

My two cents, based on experience…

-- Ethan,

View YorkshireStewart's profile


1130 posts in 3928 days

#5 posted 01-07-2008 10:24 PM

Bandsaw blades rarely cut parallel to a fence set at 90 degrees to the table. They’ll have a bias to one side or the other. Do a trial cut along a straight line drawn on a piece of scrap wood without a fence and then set the fence parallel to that cut.

-- Res severa verum gaudium - True pleasure is a serious business.

View rikkor's profile


11295 posts in 3901 days

#6 posted 01-07-2008 11:18 PM

Stewart said: Do a trial cut along a straight line drawn on a piece of scrap wood without a fence

I would add: with a wood of similar density…

View GaryK's profile


10262 posts in 4015 days

#7 posted 01-07-2008 11:24 PM

I have the same saw! It’s sitting up in storage above my shop. I got too frustrated with it and
got a 14” delta and haven’t looked back!

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View motthunter's profile


2141 posts in 3825 days

#8 posted 01-07-2008 11:59 PM

I also think that a 9” saw may be your problem. Even many 14” saws can create this problem if you don’t have good guides… I would return that one and save a few more bucks to get a better saw with good guides.

I hate to spend other people’s money, but I don’t see a solution for this saw without going to a better one

-- making sawdust....

View Russel's profile


2199 posts in 3966 days

#9 posted 01-08-2008 12:30 AM

I have a Ryobi 9” band saw. I bought it for cutting smaller pieces for dollhouses. When I started building furniture, it was clear that that saw what not the right one for the job.

-- Working at Woodworking

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

767 posts in 4200 days

#10 posted 01-08-2008 01:25 AM

Glad to see I’m not the only one who learned via that experience…

-- Ethan,

View neilk's profile


6 posts in 3822 days

#11 posted 01-08-2008 01:57 AM

These forums are psychic-like, twice this afternoon now. Saturday somebody gave me a 9” Ryobi because he upgraded to a 14” model. My first try of a short piece of 2×4 just to see resulted in exactly the same effect as itsme experienced. The blade twists to the right. I spent time futzing with the blade guides to little effect. I’d be scared to set the fence parallel to where the blade wants to go, because where it seems to want to go is rightward until…sproing!!

Isn’t it worth at least swapping out the blade for better quality, like Timber Wolf, before consigning it to the junk corner. It should be suitable for light work at least. So you’d think. Otherwise what’s the point of the thing. (I couldn’t see the link Dick posted without a subscription.)

-- Neil (so I don't have to remember to sign my name)

View itsme_timd's profile


690 posts in 3857 days

#12 posted 01-08-2008 07:06 AM

I was afraid that this might be too light duty for what I was wanting but hopeful that it would work. After using the saw it seems more functional for the small pieces (like dollhouses!) much like a scroll saw.

Does anyone have experience with a Ryobi 10” drill press??? I might trade the band saw in and go for the drill press but would like to get some feedback before I make the swap.

Thanks again for the info.

-- Tim D. - Woodstock, GA

View Russel's profile


2199 posts in 3966 days

#13 posted 01-08-2008 12:58 PM

Tim I happened to have purchased a few Ryobi tools, mainly because my budget was not agreeable to anything better. The one thing I’ve found is that they can be useful if their limitations are kept in mind. They generally don’t have the power of better tools, so they will not perform well when your projects grow in size. I have the 10” drill press and it does me well. I don’t turn pens or things, so I don’t need to drill deep. I do find that it does have problems with larger Forstner bits, those over an inch; it just doesn’t have the torque to drive it. Again, the Ryobi line is fine for what it does, I have a 10” chop saw that has served me well for the last 4 years, a plunge router that does what I need it to do, a few cordless drills that work just fine, and a 12” planer that makes wood flat. To my way of thinking, as long as you remember that they are more introductory tools and not for professional use you’ll do just fine with them.

-- Working at Woodworking

View Dekker's profile


147 posts in 3907 days

#14 posted 01-08-2008 01:57 PM

I recently bought a 9” (blog here, sorry pics offline at the moment). Proper blade setup and buying a proper blade for heavy duty work (such as when resawing) is essential with these little saws.

I have resawn 3-1/2 thick hard maple (the max thickness the tool will handle), with excellent results. I think the problem is most people expect things to work out of the box. With budget tools you may need to spend some time calibrating them to perform as the “big boys”.

Oh, and don’t feed the wood too fast… For thicker stock, get an agressive blade (3-4 teeth per inch), and only push lightly… The more force you apply, the greater the tendancy for the blade to deflect.

-- Dekker -

View iSawitfirst's profile


34 posts in 3838 days

#15 posted 01-08-2008 02:14 PM

I suggest you check to see if the blade is centered on the wheel. If its too far back the cut will drift to the right. Too far forward and the cut will drift to the left. Correct it by leaning the top wheel in or out.

-- The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance. Aristotle

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