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Router Table Miter Gauge... how the heck..

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Forum topic by Shay posted 01-07-2008 05:12 PM 5583 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shay

59 posts in 2554 days


01-07-2008 05:12 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question router

I feel like such an amature right now.

I got a new Router Table which I mounted on my Jet table saw, only to realize it didn’t have a miter gauge slot. So, I picked up a gauge track, cut the slot with my router and mounted the track. It was only then that I realized all my cheap miter gauges were smaller non-standard gauges. I have a sliding table gauge for the table saw so I hadn’t invested in anything better.

I came on here today to get some opinions on gauges when I saw posts saying they never use the miter gauge track on their router table. Well.. I’m stumped on how you get by without it. I use my router table for drawer corners and stiles. Without the miter gauge to keep the piece straight I can see problems like chipout. Is there a better solution that I’m missing?

Thanks,
BlackNoir

-- Centerville, MN - Hobbyist and DIYer


4 replies so far

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3971 posts in 2816 days


#1 posted 01-07-2008 05:27 PM

I register against the fence and push through the cut with a sacrificial backing board.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 2627 days


#2 posted 01-07-2008 05:56 PM

I use sleds that register against the fence or against the edge of the table. But lots of guys do use a slot, it’s just a matter of preference. You already have the slot, so you could build a sled or gauge that uses it – just cut a strip of hardwood to fit.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

View Mark Mazzo's profile

Mark Mazzo

352 posts in 2665 days


#3 posted 01-07-2008 05:59 PM

I would second Doug’s approach. I never use a miter gage on my router table – just back the piece with a square piece of scrap MDF or such and register it against the fence. This also has the advantage that the backer can act to lessen any possible chip out you may experience.

-- Mark, Webster New York, Visit my website at http://thecraftsmanspath.com

View coloradoclimber's profile

coloradoclimber

548 posts in 2820 days


#4 posted 01-07-2008 06:05 PM

Pretty much Douglas has it. Usually I make a jig / push block and register against the fence. The push block can be as simple as a squared up 2×4, one face against the workpiece (holds the workpiece square and acts as the backer board to help prevent tearout) and one face against the fence to hold everything square as you pass the bit. If you have a longer workpiece and you’re cutting the short end, like a drawer side, it works easier to make a square of 3/4 ply or mdf maybe 12×12 and screw a handle to it. Basically you’re making a gauge that registers against the fence instead of a slot.

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