Painting trim

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Forum topic by bdresch posted 11-01-2016 02:00 AM 716 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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148 posts in 1755 days

11-01-2016 02:00 AM

I am replacing all the junk big box casing and baseboard in my house with something of appropriate size for an old home. I had planned on using finger jointed poplar and prime/painting it white. But then a friend of mine acquired a truckload of pine 1×8 boards for almost nothing. They are #2 common grade heat treated. I was shying away from pine because I’ve heard stories of knots bleeding through. Wouldnt the fact that this is heat treated reduce knot bleed? If I were to try this for paint grade baseboard and casing, what could I do to prevent bleeding?


9 replies so far

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


5559 posts in 2556 days

#1 posted 11-01-2016 02:05 AM

I have such wood, nothing I have tried ever took out the knots bleeding through in time. Had I stained them probably would have never cared. LOL

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 739 days

#2 posted 11-02-2016 11:04 PM

But you said you primed it, no ? Knot bleeding through is not a problem at least it was not for me. The only time I see it when I stain it.
However knots is a major problem planing it as the grain direction changes sharply around knots.
Pine more often than not have loose knots that you would have to take them out and fill with something appropriate. Too much headache.
Next time you are in the big box store check out how the knots are removed from their pine “junk’ baseboards.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5095 posts in 2640 days

#3 posted 11-03-2016 11:07 AM

You might try a coat of shellac first, then paint. That may work on “heat treated” pine (whatever that means). It does seal a lot of problems out very well.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2257 days

#4 posted 11-03-2016 12:35 PM

BIN – White pigmented shellac is great stuff over knots, smoke, etc… It comes in spray bombs for small jobs, too!

Not the water based stuff, the alcohol based product. It matters…

View Cooler's profile


299 posts in 990 days

#5 posted 11-03-2016 01:20 PM

BIN – White pigmented shellac is great stuff over knots, smoke, etc… It comes in spray bombs for small jobs, too!

Not the water based stuff, the alcohol based product. It matters…

- OggieOglethorpe

That stuff absolutely works. You can even use it outdoors to spot finish the knots (but not for a full coverage coating).

MDF can also be useful, though the cut edges must be treated. Any machined edge on MDF will “raise grain” if painted with a waterbased paint.

I lightly sand the cut edges, rub on grain filler like shoe polish, and wait for it to dry. Then I lightly sand the grain filler and coat the cut edges with SealCoat shellac.

This stuff works great everywhere except in the bathroom. It does not like moisture. It is also available from the big box stores in extra long “shelves” (about 10 feet) for longer runs with no seams.

MDF paints beautifully. But remember to seal the edges or just use an oil based paint.

MDF will save a bundle of money for not much more effort. It is dimensionally stable, and takes paint beautifully. It’s weakness is in structure and the ability to take screws, neither of which matter when trimming windows or doors. My local lumber yard carries MDF in 3/4” & 5/8” thickness. They come 49” x 97” to allow for edge damage.

They weigh a ton. I always have them cut to more manageable sizes before transporting home.

-- This post is a hand-crafted natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar should not be viewed as flaws or defects, but rather as an integral characteristic of the creative process.

View UpstateNYdude's profile


917 posts in 2130 days

#6 posted 11-03-2016 01:27 PM

Go here

Best moulding advice I’ve seen, he actually makes new or stacked mouldings from big box store MDF and piecing together the normal ones. He also has great advice on the way to go about priming, filling gaps, and painting the mouldings.

Trust me and read some of what this guy has shared, he lays it out so it makes it simple and easy to follow.

-- Nick, “I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.” – Vincent Van Gogh

View HalfShirt's profile


31 posts in 1027 days

#7 posted 11-03-2016 08:34 PM

Unfortunately, I have personally experienced bleed through from knots using BIN. Just painted some knotty pine this past summer and after 1 coat BIN, light sand, and finish coat Benjamin Moore Regal I had bleed through. This is going to sound crazy but here is how I solved it. 1 Coat BIN. Light sand. 1 Coat Zinnser 123 (not the no VOC stuff), spot prime knots again with BIN, then finish Coat with BM Regal and three months later, no bleed through.

-- Why is there never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over?

View bdresch's profile


148 posts in 1755 days

#8 posted 11-03-2016 08:43 PM

This is an entry way/mud room so I want to stay away from MDF especially for the base. Ill try the BIN primer.

That site is awesome, I’ll do some digging into it.

View CopperTree's profile


53 posts in 1205 days

#9 posted 11-06-2016 05:45 AM

The new Kilz Max is also a good performing primer and is water clean up. Acts like a shellac and/or oil based primer but a bit easier to use.

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