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Help on preserving a stump crosscut

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Forum topic by Garry posted 07-13-2010 04:22 AM 2013 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Garry

64 posts in 3715 days


07-13-2010 04:22 AM

Has anyone had any luck slicing (accoss the butt) a hardwood stump to use as a table?
How can the slice be preserved without cracking or is it impossible?

Thanks

-- Garry, Engadine, Michigan (Upper Peninsula)


6 replies so far

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

2633 posts in 2573 days


#1 posted 07-13-2010 04:46 AM

Hmmmm…I “inherited” a redwood slab that my father-in-law purchased circa 1960 to make a coffee table with. Now, it’s up in MY rafters! I have no interest in making said coffee table, but I can’t get rid of the wood because my wife will defecate ceramics. Oh well, maybe the garage will catch on fire one day…again. Or one of my spawn will get a wild hair and build it. I had no idea that it took so long to treat it for usability. Mine must be ultimately usable, by now.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

View JasonIndy's profile

JasonIndy

187 posts in 2899 days


#2 posted 07-13-2010 09:20 AM

Just out of curiosity, why would it take so long to dry out? I had thought of taking some crosscuts of a fairly thin tree and making coasters out of them. I had thought all the exposed end grain would make it dry out quicker…

View Garry's profile

Garry

64 posts in 3715 days


#3 posted 07-13-2010 12:44 PM

Thanks Rob, I will give that a try.
One use for the pile of saw dust that I have piled up.

-- Garry, Engadine, Michigan (Upper Peninsula)

View Gregn's profile

Gregn

1642 posts in 2447 days


#4 posted 07-17-2010 05:06 AM

I’ve heard the same thing from wood turners that turn green wood about using sawdust. Just never thought of it on that scale of a project before.
I was going to say Garry that by covering the end grain with paraffin would slow down the drying process allowing to dry at a more even rate to avoid checking and cracking. Jason, For every inch of thickness it takes about a year to air dry if properly stickered. Generally the ends need to be sealed to prevent checking and cracking. Because the end grain acts like a straw drawing in moisture and drying out of moisture quicker. Ever notice when you buy a board and the end is painted, thats why. Cut yourself a couple of samples and treat one and leave the other as cut. It won’t take long to see the effects of the drying process.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

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fussy

980 posts in 2515 days


#5 posted 07-18-2010 06:32 AM

Look at pentofin available at Lee Valley, Woodcraft, etc. It stabilizes the wood. Used for just what you want.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Garry's profile

Garry

64 posts in 3715 days


#6 posted 07-19-2010 12:57 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Looks like quite the process to dry anything with a thickness of two inches or more.

-- Garry, Engadine, Michigan (Upper Peninsula)

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