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Forum topic by Abbadon posted 10-30-2016 04:10 AM 287 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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Abbadon

1 post in 414 days


10-30-2016 04:10 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table

I just built a very basic table that I fixed to the wall. I did not think about the fact that 3M wood filler (to fill in the space between boards because i bought cheap wood) likes to get soft with water again. So now I am looking for something that I can cover my table with that is a thick coating that can handle a beating. No extreme hammering or anything. I just work with knives, stones and such so I don’t want something that will get beat up and come off easily. I was thinking a epoxy of some kind.


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JBrow

1275 posts in 759 days


#1 posted 11-09-2016 02:19 AM

Abbadon,

I think I understand that you want to fill the gaps between a series of boards that that form a table or counter top, but beyond that I am lost. For example I do not understand how the countertop boards are fastened one to the other, the size of the gaps between the boards, or how the countertop is used (for food prep or a shop utility top). Anyway and generally speaking…

If the gaps are not huge, then epoxy could probably work. But I am not sure whether you are speaking of pourable acrylic bar top resin or resin epoxy. Pourable acrylic resin would probably perform better if the wide gaps are prefilled with an epoxy resin that is then sanded flush before applying pourable bar top acrylic resin. The 3M wood filler could also perhaps work if a film finish is applied to the surface. The film finish could prevent the wood filler from drying out or misbehaving when wet. But if you are cutting on the surface, any finish will likely become damaged in short order. A finish like polyurethane is probably not a good idea if food prep occurs on the surface. I am not sure whether epoxy is food safe.

An alternative to treating the gaps with a chemical gap filler is to rip a straight groove in the top wherever unacceptable gaps exist. Then snug fitting strips of wood can be glued into the sawn grooves. The glued-in strips can then be planed and/or sanded flush with the top.

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