Ripping Quirk bead on the table saw safely

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Forum topic by AnthonyC posted 07-12-2010 03:12 PM 1889 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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50 posts in 2327 days

07-12-2010 03:12 PM

In prep for my upcoming kitchen cabinet build (what did I get myself into?), I started practicing some of the cuts and procedures last night.

My warped and featureless router table (Craftsman Pro table with a Milwaukee router) actually did a great job at routing the quirk. Even 8’ lengths were not difficult and I only ended up losing about 1” on each end due to the clearance plate not being flush. Sadly a new router table is not in the budget right now.

Anyway, the plan will call for either a rail and stile door inset to a beaded frame OR a plain face frame with a plain solid door with a bead detail around the entire edge. As of now, I’m only considering applied, although I’m looking into other options of beading the frame/door directly.

So after I have the molding cut, I need to rip it. This led to some high pucker moments as I weighed my options.

1: Offcut side for the molding. Should be just as accurate if my stock is square. Seemed to work well, but the stock I was using got pretty thin on the fence side as well
2: Very narrow cut to the fence with the GRR-ipper. The skinny push of the GRR-ipper is barely big enough to pass between the blade and fence. I usually don’t mind using the GRR-ipper, but for this skinny piece it doesn’t seem like a good idea.
3: Bandsaw + planer. Sadly my bandsaw is a very, very awful Ryobi that was a gift from the inlaws. I’d adjust the drift if it ever kept one. The one piece I cut with the rip fence (fully intending to run it through the planer) ended up looking like the Mississippi river. Freehand was a bit better, but you wouldn’t believe how much I had to turn the stock to keep it even close to straight. Considering I have ~10’ of this per cabinet to cut, that would be a job in and of itself.

I’m trying to work out if I can get some molding pieces off of wide stock and have the remnant be suitable for other parts of the face frame, so it’s not too skinny and I’m not wasting 1/3 of every board.

Any other ideas for this? Thanks.

-- Amateur woodworker, professional mess-maker.

2 replies so far

View huff's profile


2828 posts in 2705 days

#1 posted 07-13-2010 01:49 AM

Anthony, I think you have the right idea. When ripping your beading off your board, your bead should be on the drop off side of your blade. If you start with a wider board and run your bead down both edges, you can rip the bead off both sides of your board and still have a board wide enough for either doing your stiles and rails for the face frames, or it that is still too narrow to feel comfortable with, make your board a little wider so your left over is about 2 1/2” wide ( good for stiles and rails for your doors). If you do a little math before you start and size your boards first, you should have very little waste.

-- John @

View jacktheripper's profile


7 posts in 2766 days

#2 posted 07-19-2010 05:52 PM

I feel very comfortable ripping thin long pieces using the Grip-Tite roller feeder, along with the zero clearance throatplate. No kickback because the sandpaper rollers hold the wood down and against the fence a quarter inch from the blade. You can easily rip a ten foot long half inch wide stick in half.
The magnetic ones are not cheap, but the new clamp on rollers are. $20 gets you a one way sandpaper feeder wheel you clamp on a fence
Here is a thin rip video


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