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Refurbishing a 2003 5hp Delta Unisaw Left tilt saw 34-855

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Forum topic by WooDR67 posted 10-28-2016 02:48 AM 2617 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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WooDR67

74 posts in 2459 days


10-28-2016 02:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: delta unisaw 34-855 delta t2 delta t3 rust removal unisaw table saw tablesaw referbish cabinet saw refurbishing delta rust t3 new saw motor cover cast iron table top x5 delta x5 question auction

I bought this saw on an online auction site for $420 out the door without seeing it in person or plugging it in for functionality, It was used somewhere at a relatively close unversity and apparently had been stored outside for at least a month. As soon as i got it home I gave it a quick once over and then plugged it into my neighbors 220 outlet. Well it didnt explode and it sounded and cut nicely with a crap Grizzly blade. I then went to work on what I hoped was only surface rust. After a few weeks of sanding ( yes sanding). I started lightly at 80 and finished at 400 I was able to get the top to almost new condition. I then stole my Delta T2 fence from my poor Rigid R4512, bought a mobile base and BAM! I have myself a fine 5hp beast of a saw for around $550. ( Well..add $140 for the 220 outlet so $690 total)

AFTER

I was very careful with my sander. ( random orbital) and I checked for flattness with a straight edge and feeler guages afterwards, so it’s still under .010”.I debated buying a Beisemeyer fence but since I decided to give my Rigid R4512 to my older brother, Bessy is out of reach for now. Any suggestions on what to look for once I open It up to give it a thorough cleaning? Also, why cant i find the factory ( or copycat) motor cover anywhere? I can make my own but it would be nice to complete the saw with oem parts.

I tried to fix the orientation without success, sorry.

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"


11 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6942 posts in 2345 days


#1 posted 10-28-2016 03:05 AM

After-market covers are out there all over the place, and you can always find some on the bay (like this)... but they are pretty pricey for a piece of plastic. I just made my own for about $1.79 in hardware and scrap ply, and used the opportunity to also incorporate a cover for the VFD. The cover itself sets on cleats mounted to the saw – so you just lift up and off to remove:

Cheers,
Brad

PS: You didn’t need to spend weeks, or sand, to get that top cleaned up. There are lots of easier ways to get to the same place in just a couple hours (or less) :-)

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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DirtyMike

637 posts in 1048 days


#2 posted 10-28-2016 03:21 AM

Wow, Do you happen to know the measurements of your table and wings?

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MrUnix

6942 posts in 2345 days


#3 posted 10-28-2016 03:55 AM

Wow, Do you happen to know the measurements of your table and wings?
- DirtyMike

I would hope the same size as yours, as they, AFAIK, have been the same size since the late 30’s up until sometime around 2007 when they changed the Unisaw design a bit. Stock table is 20” wide by 27” deep. Extension wings are 8” wide by 27” deep.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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WooDR67

74 posts in 2459 days


#4 posted 10-28-2016 05:20 AM

Sorry i meant to type two weeks of work between my job and the kids activities. I’de thought about electrolysis but i didnt want to mess stripping and repainting the bottom of the tabletop.

I see your saw has a dustport. Mine only has the opening for the motor and the dust chute which,I guess makes little difference if im making my own cover. Nice work on your saw by the way Unix. Is your cover made of sheet metal?

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"

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MrUnix

6942 posts in 2345 days


#5 posted 10-28-2016 05:48 AM

There are plenty of other ways besides electrolysis :)

The cover is made from some scrap 5mm plywood I had laying around. Here is what it looked like from the inside before it got painted:

Note that the bottom ‘lip’ of the cover actually protrudes into the cabinet a bit… which lets any sawdust slide down directly into the cabinet instead of getting caught between the cover and cabinet as it would otherwise.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: While mine does have a dust port on the back of the plinth, I have it covered off with a piece of sheet metal currently. The machine is sitting on a piece of plywood (on the mobile base), so I just vacuum it out now and then when it starts to get full. I guess that isn’t really a good option for you though, as yours doesn’t have a front dust door :(

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Fred Hargis

5095 posts in 2640 days


#6 posted 10-28-2016 10:58 AM

Nice job! My 2001 Uni (right tilt) had a dust port opening under the motor cover. It looks like you may have a panel under the motor that can be removed for the same thing. That’s also the way the baffle is tilted. Then a plywood replacement with an HVAC starter flange on it for the connection.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View WooDR67's profile

WooDR67

74 posts in 2459 days


#7 posted 10-29-2016 06:53 PM

Here is the inside of my saw, looks bad but its all surface rust. The lower pulley bothers me because i cant easily get to it and its coated pretty good and I do not want to dissasemble. Any suggestions?

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"

View hkmiller's profile

hkmiller

100 posts in 228 days


#8 posted 04-02-2018 10:00 PM



After-market covers are out there all over the place, and you can always find some on the bay (like this)... but they are pretty pricey for a piece of plastic. I just made my own for about $1.79 in hardware and scrap ply, and used the opportunity to also incorporate a cover for the VFD. The cover itself sets on cleats mounted to the saw – so you just lift up and off to remove:

Cheers,
Brad

PS: You didn t need to spend weeks, or sand, to get that top cleaned up. There are lots of easier ways to get to the same place in just a couple hours (or less) :-)

- MrUnix

Brad,

what method would you use to clean the cast top? I am cleaning up my unisaw now with wet sanding using WD40.

-- always something

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MrUnix

6942 posts in 2345 days


#9 posted 04-02-2018 10:10 PM


Brad, what method would you use to clean the cast top? I am cleaning up my unisaw now with wet sanding using WD40.
- hkmiller

I really do not like using abrasives or anything that will remove metal, so wet sanding would be my last resort. Usually, a good razor blade scrape will get 90% of the gunk and surface rust off. I usually just follow that up with a scotch brite pad and some kind of solvent, and putting it under a vibrating sander helps things a lot. If there is any residual staining, some oxalic acid (eg: Barkeepers Friend) will typically take care of that. Sometimes I’ll evaporust the table between the razor and scotch brite pad, but usually that is only for ones that have pitting where I can’t really get to with the scotch brite pad.

Note: That pile of rust in the top right picture came from the small portion just to the left of where the razor is sitting (you can kind of see where in the photo). It’s amazing at how much you can scrape off initially.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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TheFridge

10334 posts in 1632 days


#10 posted 04-02-2018 10:59 PM

Razor blade scraper then mineral spirits then wire wheel in drill and spirits. Wax after that. The scraper will get 90% of the crap off of it. You’d be surprised. Personally I don’t worry about patina because it’ll never stay perfect.

I have a large Rubbermaid tub as a motor cover :) works great.

Edit: forgot to refresh :)

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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WooDR67

74 posts in 2459 days


#11 posted 04-02-2018 11:54 PM

These are great suggestions. I wave decided to practice my ” skills” on the cover. Im using a recycled ( free) 1/2” oak ply and Im attepmting to mimic the original plastic cover that’s somewhat wedge shaped a and held on with spring clips. It will have a similar contour to the pictures photo of my saw as it was sold

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"

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