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Refurbishing a 2003 5hp Delta Unisaw Left tilt saw 34-855

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Forum topic by WooDR67 posted 10-28-2016 02:48 AM 1642 views 1 time favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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WooDR67

65 posts in 2150 days


10-28-2016 02:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: delta unisaw 34-855 delta t2 delta t3 rust removal unisaw table saw tablesaw referbish cabinet saw refurbishing delta rust t3 new saw motor cover cast iron table top x5 delta x5 question auction

I bought this saw on an online auction site for $420 out the door without seeing it in person or plugging it in for functionality, It was used somewhere at a relatively close unversity and apparently had been stored outside for at least a month. As soon as i got it home I gave it a quick once over and then plugged it into my neighbors 220 outlet. Well it didnt explode and it sounded and cut nicely with a crap Grizzly blade. I then went to work on what I hoped was only surface rust. After a few weeks of sanding ( yes sanding). I started lightly at 80 and finished at 400 I was able to get the top to almost new condition. I then stole my Delta T2 fence from my poor Rigid R4512, bought a mobile base and BAM! I have myself a fine 5hp beast of a saw for around $550. ( Well..add $140 for the 220 outlet so $690 total)

AFTER

I was very careful with my sander. ( random orbital) and I checked for flattness with a straight edge and feeler guages afterwards, so it’s still under .010”.I debated buying a Beisemeyer fence but since I decided to give my Rigid R4512 to my older brother, Bessy is out of reach for now. Any suggestions on what to look for once I open It up to give it a thorough cleaning? Also, why cant i find the factory ( or copycat) motor cover anywhere? I can make my own but it would be nice to complete the saw with oem parts.

I tried to fix the orientation without success, sorry.

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"


7 replies so far

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MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#1 posted 10-28-2016 03:05 AM

After-market covers are out there all over the place, and you can always find some on the bay (like this)... but they are pretty pricey for a piece of plastic. I just made my own for about $1.79 in hardware and scrap ply, and used the opportunity to also incorporate a cover for the VFD. The cover itself sets on cleats mounted to the saw – so you just lift up and off to remove:

Cheers,
Brad

PS: You didn’t need to spend weeks, or sand, to get that top cleaned up. There are lots of easier ways to get to the same place in just a couple hours (or less) :-)

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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DirtyMike

637 posts in 740 days


#2 posted 10-28-2016 03:21 AM

Wow, Do you happen to know the measurements of your table and wings?

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MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#3 posted 10-28-2016 03:55 AM

Wow, Do you happen to know the measurements of your table and wings?
- DirtyMike

I would hope the same size as yours, as they, AFAIK, have been the same size since the late 30’s up until sometime around 2007 when they changed the Unisaw design a bit. Stock table is 20” wide by 27” deep. Extension wings are 8” wide by 27” deep.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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WooDR67

65 posts in 2150 days


#4 posted 10-28-2016 05:20 AM

Sorry i meant to type two weeks of work between my job and the kids activities. I’de thought about electrolysis but i didnt want to mess stripping and repainting the bottom of the tabletop.

I see your saw has a dustport. Mine only has the opening for the motor and the dust chute which,I guess makes little difference if im making my own cover. Nice work on your saw by the way Unix. Is your cover made of sheet metal?

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"

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MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#5 posted 10-28-2016 05:48 AM

There are plenty of other ways besides electrolysis :)

The cover is made from some scrap 5mm plywood I had laying around. Here is what it looked like from the inside before it got painted:

Note that the bottom ‘lip’ of the cover actually protrudes into the cabinet a bit… which lets any sawdust slide down directly into the cabinet instead of getting caught between the cover and cabinet as it would otherwise.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: While mine does have a dust port on the back of the plinth, I have it covered off with a piece of sheet metal currently. The machine is sitting on a piece of plywood (on the mobile base), so I just vacuum it out now and then when it starts to get full. I guess that isn’t really a good option for you though, as yours doesn’t have a front dust door :(

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Fred Hargis

4758 posts in 2331 days


#6 posted 10-28-2016 10:58 AM

Nice job! My 2001 Uni (right tilt) had a dust port opening under the motor cover. It looks like you may have a panel under the motor that can be removed for the same thing. That’s also the way the baffle is tilted. Then a plywood replacement with an HVAC starter flange on it for the connection.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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WooDR67

65 posts in 2150 days


#7 posted 10-29-2016 06:53 PM

Here is the inside of my saw, looks bad but its all surface rust. The lower pulley bothers me because i cant easily get to it and its coated pretty good and I do not want to dissasemble. Any suggestions?

-- "It is amazing what you can accomplish when you dont care who gets the credit"

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