How to hide lamp wires?

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Forum topic by Grantman posted 07-10-2010 07:17 PM 2438 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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112 posts in 3864 days

07-10-2010 07:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: floor lamps lamps wiring question

I’m designing a floor lamp and I’m trying to figure out how to hide the wires inside. As the structural elements will be solid wood (1-1/2” square walnut) and it will be 72” high, what’s the best way to put the wires inside? I obviously do not have a drill bit that long. ;-)

Should I cut a groove with a small dado blade and then glue a cover on top if it? I can’t think of any other way. Any help would be appreciated.


5 replies so far

View AaronK's profile


1495 posts in 3302 days

#1 posted 07-10-2010 07:39 PM

That would definitely work – but you might have trouble matching the grain. of course it depends if that side will be against the wall or otherwise.

another way i can think of would be to have the post of the lamp be built from two separate, triangular pieces. mill a groove into on of them deep enough for the wires, then glue it up. Does that make sense? It’s sort of a super long miter – that way the glue line/joint is on the diagonal and won’t be nearly as obvious.

another way – which is harder but would look great, particularly if you have some nice grain, is to make it a quadrilinear post. if you’re unfamiliar with that, check out here and here examples.

View Rick  Dennington's profile (online now)

Rick Dennington

5597 posts in 3032 days

#2 posted 07-10-2010 07:52 PM

Greetings Grantman,

I think what I might do is cut the 1 1/2” sq. walnut into on the tablesaw first…..
Then chuck up a core 1/4” or 3/8”core box bit in your router (hopefully you have a router table),
Adjust the fence so the bit is centered in the middle of each half… cut the groove all the way down
the length of the stock, then take and glue the two halves together with Titebond, put lots of clamps on,
let it dry, and run the wires down the center, leaving plenty at the top and bottom for wireing, and that
should do it…... worked for me once…... good luck… keep on keeping on…...

-- My grandpa used to say: "Y'all come back when you can....come after dinner, and leave before supper.."

View Grantman's profile


112 posts in 3864 days

#3 posted 07-10-2010 08:45 PM

Thanks, both Aaron and Rick. I hadn’t thought of a quadrilinear post (the second link didn’t work for some reason) and that might work but with the design I’m working on it’ll be tough to also make tenons with any strength. The I’m having the uprights “pierce” a table top. So, rather than one complete upright the entire 72” I’ll be having a 21” and a 50” tenoned into a slab. Nothing like a complicated plan, eh?

You’ve given me a great deal to think about. Thanks.

View sawblade1's profile


754 posts in 2865 days

#4 posted 07-10-2010 09:06 PM

Actually how I would do it make the blank 3/16” wider than the finished width one way and next cut the blank in 1/2 joint the blank halves then plow a 3/8” deep by 1/2” wide dado and glue back up!!! the only catch is you must be accurate !!!!!

-- Proverbs Ch:3 vs 5,6,7 Trust in the lord with all thine heart and lean not unto your own understanding but in all your ways aknowledge him and he shall direct your path

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18089 posts in 3514 days

#5 posted 07-11-2010 02:03 AM

If you are going to drill it, use a self feeding wood auger with extensions. Be sure to start it perfectly straight !!! :-))

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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