I was looking through some of the wood scraps in my storage bin and heard a sound . I couldn't make it out so I turned off the radio and listened. "If you build it, they will cut on it" That's right some cutting boards are in that bin, I just have to make them. I've seen some real works of art on this site and I'm wandering what kind of glue is best for cutting boards. Due to the function they perform, it seems like they can come in contact with water on a regular basis and I don't want to make something that looks great but self destructs when someone leaves in in a sink with hot water for a couple hours.
Sawdustmaker
Best glue to use for cutting boards
I'm a fan of that Gorrila glue stuff. Mainly bacause of the open time, having only to spread the glue on one surface, and water on the other, and its real easy to sand off after it has dried. I have used Titebond III also. I have used the old standby Weldwood Plastic Resin. Practically all of the adhesives will work, however when in doubt I use good ol West Systems Epoxy. I kinda stay away from that two part Resorcinal stuff though. Most of my clamps have a deep red color on them since. Hope this helps.
Same here, Titebond III is what I use not only for cutting boards but all my woodworking projects.
i agree across the board, titebond III, I like if its small and i have enough time, for bigger i like the polyurethane,for the open time
Well, it sounds like I need to go down to Wood Craft and pick up some Titebond III. I'll have to put on my isle blinders and head straight for the glue section. Maybe I can get out of there without having to drop $60.00 at the cash register…....and that's on a good day. Thanks for the wisdom.
I've build a number of cutting boards using both Titebond III and Ployurethane (gorrilla) glue. I have found that the Poly glue will not hold up over time. I have had two boards that have failed due to the glue. One of the magazines recently conducted stregth tests on various types of glue and the Poly glue came out as the weakest of all the glues. I now use Titebond III on all of my boards.
TB3 again. Urethane doesn't hold up. You are better off using just about any PVA glues. I warranty my boards for life. Never replaced one with PVA but all the poly's have been re-done.
I always use a Watco butcher's block finish too- seems to hold up well.
It was a short learning curve, but a painful one.
I always use a Watco butcher's block finish too- seems to hold up well.
It was a short learning curve, but a painful one.
Wow, glad this popped to the top. I'm planning on making some end grain cutting boards and I researched the various glues and chose Titebond III because it had a Type 1 rating. I wasn't sure if it was rated safe for food so I was going to look into that but now I don't have to.
I jumped on the Gorilla Glue bandwagon too when it first came out but have since fallen off. Get it on your hands and they're brown for days, or on anything else. Wearing gloves my hands sweat and they're dripping by the time I take the gloves off. And, last but not least, it's not that great. I made a bird feeder a bunch of years back with it because it was so good. Even sealed it with a marine rated urethane. The glue joints eventually failed. No advantage to it. I'm going to try Titebond III on the next one.
I jumped on the Gorilla Glue bandwagon too when it first came out but have since fallen off. Get it on your hands and they're brown for days, or on anything else. Wearing gloves my hands sweat and they're dripping by the time I take the gloves off. And, last but not least, it's not that great. I made a bird feeder a bunch of years back with it because it was so good. Even sealed it with a marine rated urethane. The glue joints eventually failed. No advantage to it. I'm going to try Titebond III on the next one.
I like TB3 best, but I do use gorilla glue as well. Someone purchase some gorilla glue for one of their projects I made and had lots left to use on other projects. It seems to spread a long way. Good luck.
TBII here. In regards to self destructing if left in hot water for a couple of hours…not sure any board will stand up to that soak. I don't think its really a glue issue but more an issue of the wood soaking it up, releasing it and moving all over/splitting.
On the board I use at home, there is a small check on one end that opens up when it is dry and closes when we wash it. It was freaking me out at first because I would see it…and then go back later and I couldn't find any trace of it.
Good luck…can't wait to see the results!
Greg
On the board I use at home, there is a small check on one end that opens up when it is dry and closes when we wash it. It was freaking me out at first because I would see it…and then go back later and I couldn't find any trace of it.
Good luck…can't wait to see the results!
Greg
HA!!! ...I didn't even see the number of days ago this was posted. Oh well….don't I feel like a dufus…
"Good luck on those boards you probably already built 2 and half years ago"....Dooh!
"Good luck on those boards you probably already built 2 and half years ago"....Dooh!
I just delivered an end-grain cherry wood butcher block to my sister in Oxford UK which I glued up with Tightbond II. On the third day of my visit she hosted a huge party at which several of her women friends helped out in the kitchen. One of them thought the butcher block at 24Ă—36 would make the prefect trivet for the huge soup pot simmering on the stove. Three hours later as I helped with clean up I lifted the pot to return it to the kitchen from the buffet and found my gift beneath it. I was horrified! Outlined on the block in steam sweat beads was the shape of the ten gallon pot which had gone from boiling to room temperature on my cherry block. I wiped it off and after close inspection could find no damage whatsoever. Each day for several days I again inspected it. It was good as new. I would have used Tightbond III had I the time before my trip, but went with II because it cured faster and in the past had worked so well. I will likely go with III on my next block but I am satisfied that II passed the hot-pot steam test. By the way, I finished the block 1 1/2" thick block with two coats of salad bowl varnish from Rockleer cut about 30% with mineral spirits and a top coat of food safe mineral oil, a small bottle of which I left behind for future monthly dressings.
I am just making one myself, and am using Gorilla Wood glue. it's marked water resistant , and food safe approved.
I currently use TBII. As mentioned above, it is approved by the FDA for food applications. I use that as a selling point and keep a copy of the FDA document with me during the shows I attend. I just tell everyone…. "Yep, buy that boards at walmart that is made in China. Heck, if they are willing to put toxic paint on kids toy, I can only imagine what is in the glue they used!"
I use both II and III.
Tried to get more assemble time.
It didn't make much difference to me they were both too fast for my eyes.
Tried to get more assemble time.
It didn't make much difference to me they were both too fast for my eyes.
Titebond II is definitely my glue of choice for most projects (great for veneering). Just a note, PLEASE don't buy at Rockler or Woodcraft! Go to your local ACE or Home Depot and pay $5 less per gallon!
Gorilla has a new FDA approved white wood glue that works great it got me away from TBIII after many many years.
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