LumberJocks

Need help with table saw....

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Keen1 posted 07-06-2010 10:52 PM 1122 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


07-06-2010 10:52 PM

While my Hitachi contractor saw (C10RA3) is not thing a beauty by any stretch, and probably needs to be replaced, it’s all I’ve got at the moment and I can’t get the #$%^#$ thing to make an accurate cut. It probably has as much to do with me as it does the saw but I’ve read everything I could find about turning up a table saw and measured, remeasured and remeasured some more…... and still get cuts that are off by , .2” I’ve tuned (or so I think) the blade to .001 with the miter slot and the fence dead on with the miter slot using a digital caliber that will measure down to .001. Measured the same tooth of the blade at front and back. What am I not looking at? The boards are consistantly cut with the end being about .2 wider at the end of the cut. The splitter does hold the wood tightly against the fence, maybe it’s too tight. There is a little (very minor, barely visible) bend in the middle of the fence. Both ends measure exactly the same, dead center is about .02 (that is .02 not .2 like the boards) deeper. Not sure if I just can’t measure correctly, if the small things I mentioned lead to bigger inaccuracies, or if I am just missing something.

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One


12 replies so far

View patron's profile

patron

13537 posts in 2806 days


#1 posted 07-06-2010 11:07 PM

i was always lead to believe that the fence needs to be slightly open in back from the front .
not by allot , but some for sure ,
i don’t work to those hundreth tolerances , so can’t give specks on that ,
i just set mine by eye about a 32nd, maybe slightly less , wider in the back ,
so far it seems to work ,
i bet some one will come along and give you the chapter and verse on this real soon .

the best to you and work safe .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3050 days


#2 posted 07-06-2010 11:09 PM

Quite correct David as usual my friend.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


#3 posted 07-06-2010 11:15 PM

With the splitter holding the board so tight against the fence I did try to “open up” the fence in the back but same results both times. I should also note I’m using a featherboard to hold the board tight against the fence in front of the blade.

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One

View patron's profile

patron

13537 posts in 2806 days


#4 posted 07-06-2010 11:23 PM

sounds like to much pressure against the fence to me ,
from the ‘slightly’ bent splitter ,
or maybe to much from the feather board .
as you have the feater board in front of the saw ,
(which is correct) maybe it is slightly moving the fence away by a schosh ?
making the front wider than the back ?

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Tomoose's profile

Tomoose

410 posts in 2838 days


#5 posted 07-06-2010 11:52 PM

Have you measured the fence to blade before and after a cut? Maybe the fence is moving during the cut. My old bench top saw had a fence that would move away from the blade if it wasn’t locked down tightly and gave me similar problems.

-- “I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it.” Pablo Picasso

View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


#6 posted 07-07-2010 04:34 PM

I thought the fence might be moving too so I clamped a board (that I believe to have a straight edge) behind the fence to prevent it from slipping back.

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One

View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


#7 posted 07-07-2010 04:43 PM

I’m considering removing the splitter that came with the saw and installing the mj splitter. Only problem is the insert is not big enough. I’d have to drill the holes in the table itself. Any thoughts on doing this? It’s an aluminum top so it shouldn’t be a big deal (I don’t think).

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One

View sawblade1's profile

sawblade1

754 posts in 2492 days


#8 posted 07-07-2010 04:51 PM

Try joining a board before you get it in the table saw!!!! Many lumber mills and others that offer S4S lumber don’t take out the inaccuracies and this can be a bow in the lumber up to .18 of which can’t be seen by the human eye or felt out , LOL I had the same problem before I got my jointer this year usually I would let this slide as a uncorrectable mistake :) but it is fixable and it isn’t your table saw after all ;)

-- Proverbs Ch:3 vs 5,6,7 Trust in the lord with all thine heart and lean not unto your own understanding but in all your ways aknowledge him and he shall direct your path elmerthomas81@neo.rr.com

View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


#9 posted 07-07-2010 04:59 PM

I wish I could sawblade. Only problem is that I don’t have a true joiner. The boards are 8” wide so they won’t fit in my thickness planer either. I did plane a test board down to 3” and gave that a try but with the same result. Still .2” wider at the back of the board.

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One

View sawblade1's profile

sawblade1

754 posts in 2492 days


#10 posted 07-07-2010 05:30 PM

actually planing the board gives you the same results as the feed rollers follow the problem this is the main reason to use jointer on a cupped board!!! !Local cabinet shops may or may not joint a board for you and check local ads people sell used equipment all the time my jointer is a 1977 Delta/ Rockwell I picked up for $100 and it saved me a lot of headache and I don’t know how I made it without one.

-- Proverbs Ch:3 vs 5,6,7 Trust in the lord with all thine heart and lean not unto your own understanding but in all your ways aknowledge him and he shall direct your path elmerthomas81@neo.rr.com

View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


#11 posted 07-07-2010 06:13 PM

Seems like I have read somewhere that you can use a router table like a jointer. Any truth to that?

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One

View Keen1's profile

Keen1

103 posts in 3311 days


#12 posted 07-08-2010 11:59 PM

Okay found plenty to read on using the router as a jointer. I’m not 100% convinced that is the problem though. I had a friend of mine that does architectural woodworking S4S’d it for me. His shop is like Disneyworld to me. Huge machines that are supposed to be dead on accurate. I feel certain that the men in his shop know what they are doing.

-- Dad to 5, Son of The One

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com