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Forum topic by romanweel posted 10-17-2016 10:48 PM 326 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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romanweel

16 posts in 707 days


10-17-2016 10:48 PM

Topic tags/keywords: advice router profile

Hey y’all,
I’m trying to match this profile and looking for a router bit or bit combination that will get me in the ballpark. I don’t mind building it up with a few different cuts, but I’ve only got a small ogee bit that looks like it’ll get the top and nothing that comes close for the bottom. Any suggestions? I’d even take a second-hand moulding handplane if the shape were close enough, but I’ve been striking out here.


10 replies so far

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

817 posts in 381 days


#1 posted 10-19-2016 12:44 AM

romanweel,

A perfect match to the moulding could be obtained with a custom made cutter in a moulding machine.

If the moulding does not need to be an exact match to the sample moulding, then perhaps you could find a close enough profile from the catalog of a router bit vendor. I took a quick look at the MLCS web site and discovered that they offer an impressive array of moulding router bits. After opening the link, scroll down to the category MOLDING.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsitesc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routerbit.html#moldinganchor

There may be a set of router bits that together could achieve the profile, but I am not sure what that combination would be.

View TheTurtleCarpenter's profile

TheTurtleCarpenter

823 posts in 527 days


#2 posted 10-19-2016 01:37 AM

That looks like an older base cap profile and they vary slightly in shapes and length and widths. Depending on how much footage you need you can make it yourself or have or have a millwork supplier cut knives and run it for you. Very often you can find a close match on Ebay or you can make a template and cut down most of the waste and make a metal scratch stock out of metal and finish scraping further down to the finish profile. On ebay, you can do a search for complex moulding planes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complex-Molding-Plane-Moulding-/361321959857?hash=item54207791b1:g:6ecAAOSwstxVfzci

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle",,,,,member MWTCA area K. Kentucky

View sras's profile

sras

4391 posts in 2590 days


#3 posted 10-19-2016 02:43 AM

If you’re willing to do a little hand touch-up, you could form the bottom feature with a couple passes on a table saw set at 45 degrees. A few passes with a plan would round off the edges and then use the ogee bit.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

688 posts in 848 days


#4 posted 10-19-2016 04:11 AM

The closest examples I could find were usually called base mounding so you might check some online mounding catalogs for examples that are close enough.
How long a piece do you need? If you just need a short piece, you can try cutting the negative profile as a sanding block on a band saw and attach some sand paper to it to shape another piece by roughing it out on table saw and router table to get it close and then sanding to the final profile. Here is where I got that idea:
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-duplicate-custom-molding

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View mike02130's profile

mike02130

95 posts in 134 days


#5 posted 10-19-2016 12:06 PM

Being that I’m a finish carpenter in Boston, I often have to replicate old mouldings. Trace the profile on the end of an oversized piece of wood. Then draw straight square lines over the profile as if you were going to cut a series of rabbets. Sit down and study it and make a plan of attack. Use a table saw, maybe a router bit or two and a small shoulder or rabbet plane to shape. If you can find a similar moulding that is slightly larger, you can shape that.

If you go that route, use a board wider than your moulding so you have a surface for your router and table saw to ride on. You may find it easier if you make it a two piece moulding. Rip it at the 5/8” mark in your picture.

Forget the moulding planes on eBay. You would be taking a guess, most people selling the planes don’t have enough sense to show the profile. You’ll just end up frustrated and upset.

If you had a cutter made it would probably run you a couple hundred bucks.

I just made a similar moulding in a 3’ and 6’ length. It took three hours and I charged $180.

-- If the tool was invented after the Depression, I don't need it.

View Carbide's profile

Carbide

210 posts in 1907 days


#6 posted 10-19-2016 03:06 PM

I had the same problem while remodeling an old house. I could not find a match for the base cap. So i made new moulding with a new profile and replaced all of the base cap. I feel that it took me less time to make new than messing around for hours trying to match the old. But if you choose to try to match the old then try here http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_multi.html
I own this bit and have used it several times for moulding profiles.

-- When it feels like a job, it isn't a hobby anymore.

View romanweel's profile

romanweel

16 posts in 707 days


#7 posted 10-19-2016 07:34 PM

Thanks, everybody. Yes, it is base cap from an old house, and I would much rather replicate it than replace it, even if it takes a while of fussing. I’m going to keep watching the planes on ebay, but none of the ones there at the moment look quite right, and in the meantime I’ll work on my table saw/router table plan of attack (no band saw…yet). I dunno why I keep looking for quick fixes…three or four hours of my time versus a new not-quite-right router bit and a wad of cash? The process should be interesting, anyway.

View TheTurtleCarpenter's profile

TheTurtleCarpenter

823 posts in 527 days


#8 posted 10-19-2016 07:48 PM

I think the tablesaw is your best resource Roman. Take a cardscraper or something a little thicker and cut the profile in it a fasten it into a block of wood to finish it out and, fastening it in a block will give you a register to control depth. Good Luck

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle",,,,,member MWTCA area K. Kentucky

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

688 posts in 848 days


#9 posted 10-19-2016 07:59 PM

Again, this might depend upon how long of a piece you need and I have never tried this but you might be able to use a fret saw and some sheet metal to fashion a sort of scraper. Trace the profile on the metal and cut it out with a fret saw and use a file to refine the profile. You want a smooth and continuous edge. If you can get a burr on the edge like a standard card scraper, it will cut better. You’ll want to get as close as you can with table saw and router before using the scraper to minimize the amount of scraping.

Just an idea.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

13713 posts in 2079 days


#10 posted 10-19-2016 09:24 PM

How many linear feet of this profile do you need? Hollows and rounds can do it. Another solution is to raid base cap from a smaller area to get what you need (closet that was framed in, maybe) and replace it with near-match stuff.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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