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Ripping 6-8 foot boards (IT NEVER ENDS!!!!)

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Forum topic by ChrisCarr posted 1382 days ago 1383 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ChrisCarr

196 posts in 1399 days


1382 days ago

I am starting to work on larger projects now and i need to rip boards that are 6 – 8 foot long. After much thinking about how to provide outfeed support, I bought a little roller stand. However after having to buy a roller stand , return it ,and buy another I need infeed support apparently. I refuse to buy another roller stand and don’t have space for an infeed table, are there any other options that don’t require me spending money? ( I am a teenage woodworker and don’t have money or the space for anything else.


17 replies so far

View Jesse.R's profile

Jesse.R

50 posts in 1425 days


#1 posted 1382 days ago

why do you need infeed support? easiest thing is to find a helper to catch it comming out. make sure to tell them not to pull. they do it every time….

-- jesse

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Gary

6059 posts in 1933 days


#2 posted 1382 days ago

Chris, two or three weeks ago someone posted the idea of using an ironing board for outfeed. Your mom might not be too happy about the idea but, you wouldn’t be spending any money…..

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15544 posts in 2718 days


#3 posted 1382 days ago

I’m with Jesse… Once you have outfeed support, an 8’ board should require nothing on the infeed side other than you holding onto it. What is the problem?

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Ger21's profile

Ger21

600 posts in 1631 days


#4 posted 1382 days ago

Having someone catch boards on the outfeed side is extremely dangerous, and is just asking for kickback. If they move it toward the blade the slightest amount, it can kick back.

-- Gerry, http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/CNC_Woodworker.html

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4520 posts in 1574 days


#5 posted 1382 days ago

If you are not doing it already, I suggest you use a feather board to keep the wood firmly against the fence.

You may be having trouble on the infeed side if you are trying to hold the wood next to the fence with one hand and pushing it through with the other.

IMO – With an outfeed roller and a finger board, you should have no trouble pushing an 8’ board through with no additional support on the infeed side.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1826 posts in 2061 days


#6 posted 1382 days ago

Does your project really use 6-8 foot boards? If not, I’d cut them about a foot longer than your project requires (if your planer has a snipe problem, shorter if it doesn’t). My philosophy is to never deal with a board that is bigger or smaller than necessary.

-- Joe

View ChrisCarr's profile

ChrisCarr

196 posts in 1399 days


#7 posted 1382 days ago

my project does use 6-8 boards. Its an outdoor project for a friend. I was afraid the board would sway away from the fence as i push it through the blade as it hangs of the front. I would use a featherboard but I can’t cause the board is too wide and covers my slot. I don’t have a magnetic featherboard.

also the ironing board in my house is too short for use with the table saw and i have no way to raise it.

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1826 posts in 2061 days


#8 posted 1382 days ago

OK, understand. I don’t think you’ll have a problem if you rig up a decent outfield table and stand at about 7:00 to the blade. From that position you can easily push the board forward while holding it against the fence. Then, when the back of the board clears the front edge of the table move to the right of the fence and finish pushing the board thru, using a push stick if the space between the blade and fence is less that 6 inches or so.

When I have to rip a long board, I cut it about 1/4” oversized, because if I have to pause the cut you’ll get some saw marks. After the rough cut I cut it again using a feather board which makes it easier to keep the board moving all the time and avoiding any saw marks.

-- Joe

View Jesse.R's profile

Jesse.R

50 posts in 1425 days


#9 posted 1382 days ago

unless your trying to rip a sheet of plywood solo 8’ isnt a dificult length with an outfeed support. try running the board through with the saw off and the blade down a few times to figure out how best to keep it tight to the fence if your worried about it. that way youll be more comfortable when you do the real cut. also if you have a roller pin style support roller “i hate those” make sure its parallel to the back of the saw table cause the board will follow that thing if its off.

-- jesse

View ChrisCarr's profile

ChrisCarr

196 posts in 1399 days


#10 posted 1382 days ago

Ok, I think I understand now. Normally on smaller work i use a sanding block as a push stick/block but that would be difficult on these long boards, do you guys have any recommendations on the kind of push stick/handle I should use?

View mathom7's profile

mathom7

69 posts in 1411 days


#11 posted 1382 days ago

I don’t know what your table saw looks like, but, couldn’t you make a long feather board and clamp it to the end of the table on the other side of the miter slot?

I think I even remember this being the recommendation in the owner’s manual of the table saw, they didn’t show the miter slot being used, must mean they don’t market any miter slot feather boards. I have a rule, anything that can cause me to bleed gets a complete owner’s manual read through. Computers, DVD players, toaster etc. user manuals have a draw my office.

View JimDaddyO's profile

JimDaddyO

284 posts in 1579 days


#12 posted 1382 days ago

I have a roller I use for outfeed and I hate it. It is impossible to line it up exactly perpendicular to the blade, and when the wood rolls over it, the wood wants to move to one side or the other (perpendicular to the roller). I have some 16’ boards I want to rip and have been putting it off because of this.

-- I still have all my fingers

View ChrisCarr's profile

ChrisCarr

196 posts in 1399 days


#13 posted 1382 days ago

My table saw is very hard to clamp to because of the tube style rails.

Also JimDaddyo I found this idea (http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/homemade-tools/pivoting-outfeed-table/) it likely will solve your problem, and I’ll try it if I have the same problem.

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

920 posts in 1643 days


#14 posted 1382 days ago

Here are some that have really helped me- http://lumberjocks.com/toddc/blog/12006

I only have the single roller stands and mine are solid. You could even build your own, after all, they don’t need to roll if they are underneath.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View Gregn's profile

Gregn

1642 posts in 1483 days


#15 posted 1382 days ago

Chris, I took a look at your saw. You can make a feather board for your saw and clamp it to the extension table this way you can adjust it for the size of your board, also clamp one on your fence to hold the piece to the table as well. A couple of things to check for when ripping long boards would be to see that the blade is in alignment with the miter slot and that your fence is in alignment with your blade. You will also want to make sure your stock is flat and straight to help prevent kick back. You might also want to put a sand bag on the base of your roller stand to help in keeping it from moving.
Another solution may be to use your circular saw with a guide on it for ripping boards. I use mine more than I thought I ever would, and it allows me to cut pretty straight and this can be done on a pair of saw horses.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

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