Power Switch

It’s a matter of choice as to how you do this.

For me it was sufficient to just relocate the switch from the base of the saw to the edge of the Xacta fence.
I just bent a piece of metal and took the switch form the saw, attached it to the metal and it was a LOT easier to reach. My concern was not turning it on but being able to quickly shut it off.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

I like the idea of the magnetic drop-out switches that won’t come back on when power is restored, but if the lights are out, how likely is it that you’re going to pick that time to fiddle with your blades? I have the mag switches on my table saw, band saw, and jointer.

I like the knee bump to shut down. Sometimes you realize that things aren’t right, but if you let go with one hand things will get worse!

-- Coffee is best with a fine layer of sawdust on top. -- http://www.north40custom.com

i like a magnetic switch and I also love a huge knee bump shut off. Safety first

-- making sawdust....

How often does the power go off? I’ve only lost power once in thirteen years at this location, and I wasn’t in the shop at the time. You may have enough safeguards in place already.

-- Maplewood, MN

There are many ways of doing this off the shelf or home made. But you’re on the right track. Just decide if you want a foot kick switch (for hands free shut-off) or if a hand paddle would be adequate.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.theeasellife.com

The power switch I had on my Delta 34-445X Contractors saw was a toggle switch mounted low on the cabinet. I wanted a paddle switch undernieth the fence rail on the left side to get to it easier, plus I never did like the switch box inside the cabinet filling up with dust. One of my first concerns when relocating the switch was would the wireing to the motor be long enough. It turned out not to be a problem. So this is how I started. I bought a paddle switch from Woodworkers supply, it’s a Woodtek brand that comes with a plastic box to mount it in. I modified the new box to accept the Delta wireing useing the old Delta metal box as a marking template for the slots. Next I needed to design and build a switch mount for under the fence. The switch mount is actually mounted with one bolt undernieth the extension wing where the fence bolts to it. I wanted it set the switch back some so the chances of accidentally bumping into the paddle and shuting the saw off during a cut would be reduced. I’m very pleased with the way the project came out, the switch is mounted firmly and now I don’t have to reach way down and try to find a tiny toggle switch anymore. This upgrade was long overdue, and well worth the time and what little money it cost. It should easily pay for itself quickly in safety.

-- If you can't find the time to do it properly, how will you find the time to fix it ?

Once again, why do I bother takeing the time to post these prodjects ?

-- If you can't find the time to do it properly, how will you find the time to fix it ?

Woodchuck, it looks like you have some great ideas for solutions to a common problem.

I think when you reply to someone else’s post, other LJs assume you are giving feedback instead of looking for feedback. If you want ideas or opinions about what you’ve done, you might start a new forum topic.

-- Coffee is best with a fine layer of sawdust on top. -- http://www.north40custom.com

Actually I think that all large shop tools should come with a magnetic type switch. It’s just another one of those safety issues that should be.

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

Here is a not so good picture of the knee kick cut off switch I made for my Grizzly 1023. It is made from standard 3/4” PVC pipe and fittings. The idea came from a woodworking magazine, but I can’t remember which one.

-- Mark