Finish for workshop projects

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Forum topic by mathom7 posted 07-04-2010 05:24 AM 1110 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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69 posts in 2330 days

07-04-2010 05:24 AM

I was wondering what everyone uses to finish there projects intended for the workshop: carts, stands, workbenches etc.

I haven’t finished any of mine yet, but, was just thinking of using some stain and polyurethane left over from a project for my wife.


9 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile


51452 posts in 2899 days

#1 posted 07-04-2010 05:29 AM

I think if you are going to finish shop items, the stain and poly are the best.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View a1Jim's profile


115171 posts in 2996 days

#2 posted 07-04-2010 05:34 AM

water base poly

-- Custom furniture

View Andrew's profile


709 posts in 2617 days

#3 posted 07-04-2010 05:36 AM

Boiled linseed oil for the workbench, poly won’t protect against the abuse it will take, it might as well feel natural and warm.

-- Even a broken clock is right twice a day, unless, it moves at half speed like ....-As the Saw Turns

View trifern's profile


8135 posts in 3186 days

#4 posted 07-04-2010 06:04 AM

Blood, sweat and tears…

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

View Rick's profile


8287 posts in 2451 days

#5 posted 07-04-2010 06:49 AM

trifern: I know that Group. They put out some great songs! David Clayton Thomas?

mathom7: Don’t tell anyone I did this but …...My Workbench isn’t like most of the “Pro’s” on here ;-} It takes a real beating and it has a 5/8”, OSB Well Supported Top.

Started to look a little “Ratty” so I ran over it quickly with a Belt Sander to get rid of all the High and Torn Out Spots. Then Diluted a Bottle of LePages Woodworking Glue with Water 50/50. Smoothed that off with a Wide Blade Paint Scraper. Let it Dry for 2 Days just to make sure. Another Quick Hand Sanding. Put a Coat of Minwax “Water Base Stain” “Burnt Orange”, which is more lika Paint than a Stain in my Humble Opinion. Let Dry overnight. 3 Heavy Coats of Water Base Poly and All Done.

In a Nutshell. Same as what Jim and Wayne said. Actually “Sealing Up” that OSB was a good move.

Also: Poly can might or might not say it but, while Poly seems to dry very fast it actually takes a full week for it to get to full Dry/Hardness.


-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


17573 posts in 3094 days

#6 posted 07-04-2010 07:08 AM

A little blood once ikn a while ;-)) Wax or tape to keep glue or epoxy from sticking.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Pete_Jud's profile


424 posts in 3171 days

#7 posted 07-04-2010 07:15 AM

I use a lot of Seafin teak oil on projects, its a combo of tung and poly wipe on wipe off 6 coats, with a long time between coats, but the finish is great I get it from Daly’s in Seattle, but they have dealers all over the country.

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

View Sailor's profile


543 posts in 2683 days

#8 posted 07-04-2010 05:01 PM

Poly is what I use for nearly everything in the shop. My workbench, cabinets, sawhorses, router table, and saw horses are covered with poly, I love that stuff.

-- Dothan, Alabama Check out my woodworking blog! Also my Youtube Channel's Facebook page

View PurpLev's profile


8523 posts in 3067 days

#9 posted 07-04-2010 05:04 PM

Boiled Linseed Oil!

it penetrates the wood and protects/seals it from moisture (which is all you really want) but does not leave a hard film finish which is smooth and can crack when banged on. this also leaves the warm soft wood to the touch.

when I secure something to my bench, or when I hit something with a mallet, or hold a tool in my hand, the last thing I want is for the tool/piece/mallet to slip away because they have a smooth finish on them.

your miles may vary.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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