LumberJocks

New Bandsaw, need blades. I have confused myself reading too much on the internet.

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Goat0311 posted 10-14-2016 12:40 AM 1344 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Goat0311's profile

Goat0311

13 posts in 202 days


10-14-2016 12:40 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw grizzly g0514 bandsaw blades lenox wood master resaw

I just purchased the Grizzly G0514XF 19” 3HP Bandsaw, now I’m looking at bandsaw blades. I have been searching and reading for endless hours the last couple days on the internet and it has just left me confused, so I hope you guys can help.

I mostly will be doing re-sawing and ripping. My barn is now full of thousands of board feet of black walnut I had taken down on my uncles property (He was gonna clear cut it for houses) and have been milled. A lot was kilned dried but some is still wet around 18%.

Question 1: I am willing to spend the money to get some good blades, I was about to order the Woodmaster CT 1” x 0.035×1.3T for re-sawing but I have read that this saw won’t be able to tension properly, read that it will it run fine and read that it will run but at very high tension. Anyone have experience with this or can make a better recommendation?

Question 2: What other blade should I get for general purpose, mostly ripping. I will never be doing fine or intrique cuts. Should I be looking at a 1/2” blade with what TPI recommendation?


15 replies so far

View Woodchuck2010's profile

Woodchuck2010

508 posts in 321 days


#1 posted 10-14-2016 01:00 AM

Simple. The “Woodslicer” blade from Highland Woodworking. With 3HP you could do 1/2 to 3/4” easy.

-- Chuck, Michigan,

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1190 posts in 1357 days


#2 posted 10-14-2016 01:04 AM

Second the woodslicer.
I don’t recommend Timberwolf, I’ve gotten several bad welds from them.

View Goat0311's profile

Goat0311

13 posts in 202 days


#3 posted 10-14-2016 01:31 AM

Is it really worth it though to spend $40 for a woodslicer or buy a carbide tipped Lenox that is gonna last a lot longer?

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

493 posts in 2784 days


#4 posted 10-14-2016 02:19 AM

First the Woodslicer is overpriced both Iturra and Spectrum Supply selll the same blade stock for significantly less (Bladerunner and Kerfmaster).

Second, unless you need the narrow kerf of the above blades or you rarely ever resaw a carbide tipped blade will be MUCH more cost effective in the long run. The Woodmaster CT is only available 1 and 2” widths with a fairly thick back. The blade will not be tensioned correctly (27,000-30,000 psi) on that saw. My suggestion would be the Lenox Trimaster or Laguna Resaw King in 3/4” the Trimaster is thicker and will push the saw to the limit to tension it correctly the Laguna RK is thinner and will work very well. The RK and Trimaster are more expensive than the WM CT but will give a smoother finish (though hand fed they will be pretty similar unless one is really good at keeping constant pressure), the RK has the benefit of inexpensive resharpenings by just sending it back to Laguna. The other option is a bi-metal blade which will outlast the hardened spring steel (Woodslicer) or standard carbon blade 6-8 times and are much cheaper than carbide blades. I recommend the Lenox Diemaster II and while it still needs much higher tension than a carbon steel blade it is avaiable in 1/2 in 3, 4 and 6 tpi hook. Keep in mind the wider blades are only good for the beam strength they bring to the table, if a saw can’t tension a blade correctly the extra width is a negative rather than a positive.

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

3674 posts in 1728 days


#5 posted 10-14-2016 02:29 AM

AHuxley, thanks you answered a lot of questions I’ve had and haven’t had gumption to ask. I’ve been muddling along hit or miss on my own. That’s some great information.

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1190 posts in 1357 days


#6 posted 10-14-2016 03:15 AM

Did not know the Woodslicer is the same as the KerfMaster, they are cheaper. Thanks.

Second, unless you need the narrow kerf of the above blades or you rarely ever resaw a carbide tipped blade will be MUCH more cost effective in the long run.

- AHuxley

Had not heard this before, carbide blades don’t hold up well long term for resawing, or is it a significantly larger kerf? (Not trying to hijack your thread, goat, just curious.)

View coxhaus's profile

coxhaus

14 posts in 357 days


#7 posted 10-14-2016 03:46 AM

Do you have a metal detector? I sure would hate to hit a nail or something using a high dollar blade. To me using low dollar Lenox blades in case, seems safer to me. I guess you could hit a rock or something non-metal also.
But I am no expert so my advice is free.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7172 posts in 2040 days


#8 posted 10-14-2016 12:06 PM

http://www.toolcenter.com/bandsaw_coil_stock.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzKSk_Zs0Ew

Maybe learn how to silver solder and make your own blades from bulk stock?

Something to consider….....

View Goat0311's profile

Goat0311

13 posts in 202 days


#9 posted 10-14-2016 12:21 PM

I appreciate all the comments and advise. It’s already helped me a ton, and worry about hijacking this thread.. I have had all the questions you guys are asking.

View Goat0311's profile

Goat0311

13 posts in 202 days


#10 posted 10-14-2016 01:49 PM



Do you have a metal detector? I sure would hate to hit a nail or something using a high dollar blade. To me using low dollar Lenox blades in case, seems safer to me. I guess you could hit a rock or something non-metal also.
But I am no expert so my advice is free.

- coxhaus

I dont have a metal detector, I have never hit a nail or metal in any wood I have worked with so I’m really not concerned with this issue. If for any reason I thought I might I would switch to a cheap blade.

View Goat0311's profile

Goat0311

13 posts in 202 days


#11 posted 10-14-2016 01:52 PM

I also have a bunch of half inch thick exotic hardwoods I would like to be resawin, what type on blade should I be looking for when cutting those (width, TPI)?

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

493 posts in 2784 days


#12 posted 10-14-2016 02:57 PM


Second, unless you need the narrow kerf of the above blades or you rarely ever resaw a carbide tipped blade will be MUCH more cost effective in the long run.

- AHuxley

Had not heard this before, carbide blades don t hold up well long term for resawing, or is it a significantly larger kerf? (Not trying to hijack your thread, goat, just curious.)

- ColonelTravis

The problem with comprehension was my convoluted choice of wording. What I was trying to say is the carbide blades outlast all other types of blades by a significant margin but that the hardened spring steel blades like the Woodslicer have two (I will include a third here) advantages. 1. they have a very thin kerf which can save an extra slice or two of veneer. 2. they are cheap so if you don’t do much resawing using them may make sense and 3. they are thinner and require less tension so it works well on smaller saws.

Sorry for the confusion.

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

493 posts in 2784 days


#13 posted 10-14-2016 03:10 PM



I also have a bunch of half inch thick exotic hardwoods I would like to be resawin, what type on blade should I be looking for when cutting those (width, TPI)?

- Goat0311

First, I would not even consider the Woodslicer or its type UNLESS you are cutting veneer and need the thin kerf to eek out another slice. The cost of each cut will be high with that blade in exotics particularly ones with high silica content. The three blades I would recommend would be the Diemaster II which comes in 1/2” 3 tpi, the Tri Master which comes in 3/4” 3 tpi or the Reasaw King which comes in 3/4” 2-3 tpi variable pitch. Properly setup all three will leave a finish that only requires a small amount of prep before finish.

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1190 posts in 1357 days


#14 posted 10-14-2016 03:18 PM

Got it AHuxley – thanks again.

View Goat0311's profile

Goat0311

13 posts in 202 days


#15 posted 10-14-2016 03:23 PM

Thank you AHuxely you have been a huge help

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com