Band saw blade

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Forum topic by ClayandNancy posted 06-30-2010 04:24 PM 1182 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ClayandNancy's profile


520 posts in 3189 days

06-30-2010 04:24 PM

I ‘m thinking of getting into resawing. I have a 60 year old Delta 14 inch and I’m getting ready to refurb it. My question is how wide a blade can I use on it and will this saw even work for resawing? Been laidoff quite awhile so there’s not much money floating around.

12 replies so far

View syenefarmer's profile


508 posts in 3255 days

#1 posted 06-30-2010 04:57 PM

If your saw is powered by a ¾ HP or smaller motor than I would say the max width blade you should use would be ½”.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5103 posts in 4135 days

#2 posted 06-30-2010 08:03 PM

I resaw with a 1/2” Wood Miser blade from Highland Woodworking. All I’ve ever needed.


View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3249 days

#3 posted 06-30-2010 09:08 PM

Use the widest blade your saw will handle and make certain to get the tension where it should be (20,000 pounds per square inch). I think on most 14” band saws the widest blade they can handle is 1/2”.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View hairy's profile


2780 posts in 3706 days

#4 posted 06-30-2010 11:20 PM

I have an old Delta from the 1940’s. The widest blade I have used is 1/2”, but the manual says it can handle 3/4”. I’ve only resawn smaller pieces with it. I don’t have a riser on it.

This may not be your exact tool, but it might help. When I bought mine,about 4 years ago, it came with a copy of this.

-- My reality check bounced...

View ClayandNancy's profile


520 posts in 3189 days

#5 posted 07-01-2010 03:03 AM

Same one. I have a 1/4” blade on it now and have only really used it for tenon and scroll work. I haven’t checked the hp on it. It was my fathers, he also left me a drill press of the same vintage and they both work great. Does it do a good job on resawing?

View hairy's profile


2780 posts in 3706 days

#6 posted 07-01-2010 06:59 AM

It can be good, for small stuff. If everything is right, that saw is a good one.

I also have a newer vintage Jet 14”, with riser and bigger motor. Craigslist has been very good to me. I much prefer the old Delta. The Jet has a 3/4” blade, the Delta has a 1/4”.

I don’t resaw a lot,but when I do, I don’t use a fence. I cut the line very slowly. Works for me.

Read up on setting up your saw properly, it will be time well spent. A 1/2” blade should do fine, I’ve had good luck with Timberwolf, not so good with Olsen.

-- My reality check bounced...

View Porchfish's profile


847 posts in 2707 days

#7 posted 07-22-2018 02:04 PM

Hello. I rehabbed an older Delta 14” and added 6” riser blocks. I have put a 3/4” blade (Timberwolf) and switched to a 1/2” blade…..more flex more usage. Depends on design of teeth and # per ” .... I cut a lot of fairly green wood into bowl blanks for wood turning I like the hook pattern 3 TPI blade from Timberwolf. Good luck and good cutting. If I had the $$$$ I’d invest in a wood-maxx 26” bandsaw mill . 4k & free shipping plus 5% discount for Veterans.

-- The pig caught under the fence is always the one doing all the squealing !

View BobAnderton's profile


283 posts in 2965 days

#8 posted 07-22-2018 03:38 PM

I wouldn’t be too quick to get a very wide blade in your case. Consider that you’ll want to adequately tension the blade that you use, and the greater the cross sectional area of the blade the more lbs of force the saw will have to generate to get a certain tension. A modest saw may be able to generate sufficient force to tension a 1/2” blade but not a 3/4” blade. I’d start with a 1/2” or 3/8” and see how that goes. I find a 3/8” blade is a good compromise that I use both for resawing and curves. Just my 2 cents.

That said I would definitely encourage you to start resawing with your bandsaw. It’s very handy to be able to resaw stock down to the thickness you want instead of using a planer to turn 1/2 the board into shavings to get down to the desired thickness.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View bigJohninvegas's profile


503 posts in 1636 days

#9 posted 07-22-2018 03:47 PM

On the 2nd page of the manual that hairy posted it mentions a 3/4” blade. But a 1/2” set up properly would most likely work well on that size of saw.
I recently set up my saw using the method Alex Snodgrass demonstrates in this you tube video.
I have had my 17” bandsaw for a good 2 years and never got it to resaw until now.
amazing on how easy it really is to set up.

-- John

View TheFridge's profile


10500 posts in 1660 days

#10 posted 07-22-2018 04:28 PM

I use a 3/8 nowadays. 1/2 work fine w a riser but I wanted to try out a 3/8 just because. Can’t really say there’s much of a difference besides a hair better cut quality. I found the speed to be about the same.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View AHuxley's profile


820 posts in 3496 days

#11 posted 07-22-2018 06:30 PM

While the is a very old thread I figure I would respond anyway.

The best resawing blade for the 14” cast saws is an impulse hardened spring steel blade (they were actually “borrowed” from the meat cutting industry). The same blade stock is available from Highland Woodworking (Woodslicer), Iturra Designs (Blade Runner) and Spectrum Supply (Kerf Master). I listed them in descending order of price, Highland charges by far the most but they brought the blade to woodworking and are most often associated with them. They have a thin backer (so easy to tension) have a narrow kerf/little to no set (requires less horsepower and provides a smoother finish), have variable spaced teeth to reduce harmonics and are very sharp. They can be sharper than the average carbon blade since the teeth are softer. This does mean they dull quicker than a carbon blade but unless you do a lot of resawing they will still last a decent amount of time. I do not recommend bi-metal or carbide tipped blades for these saws due to their tensioning requirements and they have thicker kerfs needing more HP per inch of cut.

I should note the lack of set makes it a poor candidate for green wood.

View TheFridge's profile


10500 posts in 1660 days

#12 posted 07-22-2018 06:35 PM

What the hell :) keep it rolling

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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