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Danish Oil?

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Forum topic by Maveric777 posted 06-29-2010 02:04 PM 3150 views 2 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2542 days


06-29-2010 02:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question danish oil lupyus finishing

Hey everyone, I got down to the finish side of my latest project and decided to try danish oil for the first time. I have applied 2 coats so far and I must say that I am very impressed with it. Absolutely love what it did to the enhance the lyptus wood used.

My question is … What is the norm when it comes to amount of coats? Is danish oil just a wood enhancer and you should come back with a wax or polly (I read you have to wait for 72 hours)? The reason I ask is I want to make 100% sure the wood is sealed up. I found lyptus very easy to splinter and want to prevent any issues down the line. I also see where in the light I have shiny and not so shiny areas. I have seen this before in my life on finished work. Just wasen’t sure if that is what it is suppose to look like. I know it may be a matter of opinion, but I would like to hear yalls.

Thanks for any insight on this. ! am a huge fan of danish oil now. Just want to make sure I cross all my “T’s” and dot my “I’s”....lol

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.


12 replies so far

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4541 posts in 2540 days


#1 posted 06-29-2010 02:18 PM

I use danish oil if I am going to buff the piece. The standard 3 step buffing process works very well with a danish oil base. If I don’t plan to buff, I stick with poly.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8256 posts in 2894 days


#2 posted 06-29-2010 02:20 PM

Number of coats: If oil is the only finish, keep applying until the finish is uniformly glossy after the 3 day drying times. Then buff it out.

Wax is OK, but it offers very little protection and that, for only a short time. We use it in the final 0000 steel wool rub. that is, the wax is applied with 0000 steel wool then buffed again.

Top coating? We used to top coat with polly. Now we mix it 50/50 with the oil and wipe it on. Saves oodles of time and effort. BTW, we use Watco.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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Maveric777

2692 posts in 2542 days


#3 posted 06-29-2010 02:40 PM

Thanks for the input guys. I will chock this up to a good lesson. Looking back now I really should have stuck with my norm (BLO & wipe on polly). I just wanted to give danish oil a go. I am still a big fan of it, but seems to me from what yall said it isn’t the fastest way around the horn.

Since this is going to be a daily used jewelery / keepsake box for my bride (and she can be rough with things at times) I will let it sit and cure for a while then come back with my old tried and true wipe on polly for protections sake.

Thanks again for the info.

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

View CaptainSkully's profile

CaptainSkully

1437 posts in 3024 days


#4 posted 06-29-2010 03:42 PM

I use three coats of danish oil to ensure saturation before I let it polymerize. I’ve had great luck with gel stain over the danish oil to give it a bit more depth and to dial in the color I wanted.

-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails

View degoose's profile

degoose

7196 posts in 2820 days


#5 posted 06-30-2010 12:33 AM

I use danish oil on table tops..
Poly on al small boxes..
Mineral Oil on all boards…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Triumph1's profile

Triumph1

861 posts in 2544 days


#6 posted 06-30-2010 01:33 PM

I put a minimum of three coats of Danish Oil on the boxes. 0000 Steel wool in between coats. let it dry for a week and then two coats of wax. Usually BriWax. First wax using 0000 steel wool and then another with just 100% cotton t-shirt material. Now, if the box is small enough and I want a gloss finish I use the Beall Wood Buffing System. If your worried about finger prints you could use Renaissance Wax . It is a micro-cyrstalline wax that whe used does not show finger prints. In my opinion using poly is like coating something in plastic. I use it only when something really needs a lot of protection. Boxes are meant to be held, touched, etc. I want the true warmth of the wood to felt and not just seen. To me that comes through more with a straight oil/wax finish. Plus small boxes are just that…small. Very easy to wax it again in a year if needed. Another finish I really love is a equal mixing of spar varnish/BLO/mineral spirits. I apply it the same way I do Danish Oil. Like I stated…just my opinion.

-- Jeff , Wisconsin Please...can I stay in the basement a little longer, please!

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8256 posts in 2894 days


#7 posted 06-30-2010 02:19 PM

Thanks Jeff. That spar varnish/BLO/ mineral spirits sounds like a winner for my boxes.
Do you use a particular brand of varnish. We use McClosky’s Man-O-War. Might be overkill but we make pistol boxes that get lots of use…well some of them do. And, I’d rather stick with one brand for convenience sake.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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Triumph1

861 posts in 2544 days


#8 posted 06-30-2010 05:21 PM

Gene…I actually have just used Ace Hardware brand and have had good results. I read the McClosky’s is the best you can get though. I guess I have to reiterate what I stated also. I put it on the same as Danish Oil only in the idea of the soaking technique but with the BLO/SV/MS I let it sit for 20-30 minutes and wipe it off. Unlike the Danish oil which you re-soak it after 30 minutes and then let it sit another 15 before wiping. I do a minimum of three coats with the BLO/SV/MS wipe. The only downfall is the drying time is longer. I let it dry for a minimum of two weeks….that BLO takes a while.

-- Jeff , Wisconsin Please...can I stay in the basement a little longer, please!

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3593 days


#9 posted 06-30-2010 08:21 PM

IMNSHO: McCloskey’s doesn’t hold a candle to Epifanes.
However, Ace Spar Varnish is a very nice product (tung oil phenolic resin based) at a good price.
I use it on outdoor garden structures.

The so-called “spar urethane” products are low-end consumer grade and should be avoided.

-- 温故知新

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3593 days


#10 posted 06-30-2010 08:39 PM

IMNSHO: McCloskey’s doesn’t hold a candle to Epifanes.
However, Ace Spar Varnish is a very nice product (tung oil phenolic resin based) at a good price.
I use it on outdoor garden structures.

The so-called “spar urethane” products are low-end consumer grade and should be avoided.

-- 温故知新

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1426 posts in 2961 days


#11 posted 06-30-2010 09:20 PM

I agree with everyting Triumph1 said…............. Danish oil & Wax is absolutely wonderful for boxes. It gives you “adequate” protection and feels as smooth as “a baby’s butt”.
This is the only finish I use on my boxes, including the larger chests that get even more use.

I have not tried the blo/varnis/spirits combo but plan to in the future, it sound very promising. This is the combination that many others on this site use as well.

But for simplicity and end results, Danish and Wax is my favorite…..........IMHO

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8256 posts in 2894 days


#12 posted 06-30-2010 09:34 PM

Man, I hadn’t thought of Epifanes for years. Used a lot in the dairy and meat business. FDA loved it.
Don’t think my boxes need quite that level of protection, though.
IIRC, it was about $40.00 a can, a litre, I think, about 15 years ago. Prolly a lot more, today

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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