Router Table Help

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Forum topic by ChrisCarr posted 06-27-2010 03:58 AM 1121 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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196 posts in 3139 days

06-27-2010 03:58 AM

I own a cheap skil router table ($Ntt=router%20table$y=0$x=0) and have had it for about 6 months. I just now am starting to do more than edge routing on it. Today I destroyed about 4 strips of mdf trying to cut a 1/4 groove into them, the fence on my router table keeps moving from the force i put against it. No matter how hard I tighten the knobs to lock it (i also square the fence before and after the knobs are tightened perfectly) the fence moves when i am cutting the grooves, which makes the grooves un-straight and essentially destroys my workpiece. I don’t have money to get a new router table or fence system for it.

I have always been interested in the way the festool mft allows you to rout boards. Has anyone done a diy festool mft and guide rail? .

6 replies so far

View Uncle_Salty's profile


183 posts in 3313 days

#1 posted 06-27-2010 04:12 AM

My personal experience on a cheap router table and cutting grooves: I have had the best look, when using a 1/4” straight cutting bit, only cutting about 1/8” of an inch at a time. When using a spiral downcut bit, I have had better luck taking a 1/4” out of it. In addition to the lockdowns that the manufacturer use to hold the fence down, I tend to “overdo” it a bit, and will frequently add parallel clamps from the top of the fence to the bottom of the table. This tends to help a lot.

And… I really woulld rather use the table saw and the dado stack to make grooves whenever possible, if possible.

View wseand's profile


2796 posts in 3282 days

#2 posted 06-27-2010 04:14 AM

You might be taking out too much wood at one time. Try taking smaller amounts of wood out at a time. Start with 1/8th inch or smaller than raise the bit an 1/8th inch or so till you reach the desired depth. The other thing you can do is ditch the fence and use a straight piece of wood and clamp it down or find a way to clamp down the fence that came with it.

View sikrap's profile


1121 posts in 3599 days

#3 posted 06-27-2010 04:14 AM

I haven’t done what you’re asking about, but I suggest using a clamped/clamping edge guide and using the router freehand. I find this method to be better than doing grooves on the router table. I’ve used it for mdf, particle board and plywood with no problems. HTH.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View lanwater's profile


3111 posts in 3174 days

#4 posted 06-27-2010 07:32 AM

I started with a bosch router table similar to yours. after few months I made my own big router table.
I did buy the fence.

It works great. I have done a lot of tong and groove without a problem.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View a1Jim's profile


117417 posts in 3817 days

#5 posted 06-27-2010 07:45 AM

silly question are you routing from right to left? If you are routing the correct way right to left use a clamp behind both sides of your fence to keep it from moving. and as earlier folks said you can also take lighter cuts and use a spiral cut router bit.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View ChrisCarr's profile


196 posts in 3139 days

#6 posted 06-27-2010 04:20 PM

Fixed! I replaced the knobs and carriage bolts with better quality ones and it seems to stay in place.

I would use a stacked dado for grooves but they never give a flat bottom and when cutting rabbets that a must for me.

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