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Forum topic by lalkie posted 10-02-2016 01:58 AM 441 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lalkie

20 posts in 442 days


10-02-2016 01:58 AM

I have just begun working on segmented turning and have a shopsmith sled that I am using. I getting the angles pretty close but having trouble with the decimal measurements for the outside segment length. What is a good way to measure the distance from my fence to the fence side of my saw blade. I am presently using a caliper to set the distance then transferring that measurement to a telescoping gage to transfer that to a block on the fence and the saw blade. Anyone have a better way. Also is a sled better than an incra 1000HD miter gauge. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry


10 replies so far

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3125 days


#1 posted 10-02-2016 12:15 PM

I use software (Woodturner Pro) to do those kinds of calculations. Many turners draw their rings (full size) on graph paper and just measure.

I don’t know what a ‘shopsmith sled’ is … I use a Wedgie sled on my tablesaw to cut my segments:
Click for details

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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lalkie

20 posts in 442 days


#2 posted 10-02-2016 03:17 PM

It is a lot like your sled with one fence that is adjustable with a protractor. Was your software expensive? I have looked at some but I am also working with graph paper. Thanks Larry

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3125 days


#3 posted 10-02-2016 06:37 PM

Was your software expensive?

Currently sells for $69 … I don’t recall what I paid for it several years ago: http://woodturnerpro.com/software/woodturnerpro.htm

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3125 days


#4 posted 10-02-2016 11:32 PM

BTW, there are many free apps for calculating this stuff. Just Google ’segmented bowl calculator software’ and take your pick! Some are online, some you have to download and install.

The free apps may not be as full-featured as Woodturner Pro, but they will get you started.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View gwilki's profile

gwilki

121 posts in 935 days


#5 posted 10-03-2016 01:42 PM

The others have advised you on how to determine the length, but to me, you know the length, and seem to be asking how to set the length once you know it, correct?

I have a stop block on my fence so that I am not pinching the wood between the cross cut sled and the rip fence when I’m cutting the segment.

Once I know the length I want, I set a caliper to that length. I mark the strip that I am cutting with the caliper and darken the mark with sharp pencil. Then I use that marked piece to set the distance between the stop block/rip fence and the blade. It’s far easier to use the strip than to use the caliper, trying to get the distance between the fence the blade correct, I find.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

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Julian

1034 posts in 2152 days


#6 posted 10-03-2016 03:25 PM

I second the recommendation to use a “Wedgie” sled. You will get accurate cuts each time. If you don’t like decimals try using metric measurements. Regarding the outside measurement; I do the same process as Grant described. Keep in mind that you don’t have to measure down to a hundredth of an inch or 1 mm. When you glue up the rings they can easily shift a little so I always include a fudge factor.

-- Julian

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lalkie

20 posts in 442 days


#7 posted 10-03-2016 09:17 PM

Thanks for the help. I was also using a stop block on the fence which allows room for the pieces I cut.
after looking at this site I saw a stop block listed as cutting narrow strips and built one like the ones pictured. I haven’t tried it yet but expect it wo work better. It does not use the fence and is only about 4 inches long and slides in the miter slot. I should be able to be more accurate. Hopefully I am bale to get a finer cut with the block up between the fence and the saw blade. Thanks again. Larry

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3125 days


#8 posted 10-03-2016 09:39 PM

The stop you make with the Wedgie Sled is the way to go …
http://www.segeasy.com/sawstop.pdf

The plan for the Wedgie sled calls for building it out of Corian …
http://www.segeasy.com/wedgiesledplan1.pdf
... I made mine of out plywood.

A zero-clearance throat plate will give you cleaner cuts (less sanding) ...
http://www.segeasy.com/zeroclearancestrip.pdf

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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lalkie

20 posts in 442 days


#9 posted 10-10-2016 12:44 AM

I am having better luck with my shopsmith miter and the stop block I built. I kind of gave up on the shopsmith sled as it was to difficult to set the correct angel. I may build a better sled as I gain experience. I build some 0 clearance throat plate form wood. They work well. Thanks Larry

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Woodmaster1

736 posts in 2049 days


#10 posted 10-10-2016 01:33 AM

After getting segmented turning down try an open segmented bowl. They are just as much fun and challenging.

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