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How to microadjust table saw fence ?

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Forum topic by Dick_Cheney posted 09-30-2016 08:03 PM 596 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dick_Cheney

15 posts in 72 days


09-30-2016 08:03 PM

I replaced my Grizzly with Sawstop PCS lately. What a saw !!!
However I cannot figure out how to move the 36” T-Glide fence a little bit. On my Grizzly a few light taps on the fence head would do the trick. With Sawstop it does too but when I tighten the lock the fence aligns square to the rails and all my tapping goes down the drain.
Since it is a clone of Biesemeyer which stays popular for so long I am sure I do something wrong. Not sure what though.


19 replies so far

View brtech's profile

brtech

906 posts in 2390 days


#1 posted 09-30-2016 08:07 PM

On mine, I get it close, lock, unlock, tap, lock. Seems to work pretty well. It also helps to knock in the middle of the fence rather than the end

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jbay

819 posts in 367 days


#2 posted 09-30-2016 08:15 PM

I do just the opposite of brtech.
I keep a little back pressure on the fence to keep it flat against the tabs, then I tap it at the back while holding back on it.

(Madmark should be along to brag about his Incra fence) LOL

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

View JayMnKato's profile

JayMnKato

8 posts in 646 days


#3 posted 09-30-2016 08:20 PM

One thing to try if you haven’t yet is to not open the fence lock all the way when making fine adjustments.

I have found with my T-Glide (sawstop pcs) that opening up the fence lock all the way will allow the fence to move freely and come out of square, as soon as I lock it back down it will always square back up but at the expense of possibly moving the fence out of position anywhere from a 16th to an 8th, just as you are experiencing. So now what I do is get the fence in the correct area, then lock it down all the way, then open it back up but only to the point where the handle rests on the lock but before putting any pressure on it to lock it down (almost in a horizontal position, parallel to the floor). I then gently tap it into final position and lock it back down, gently. This appears to take most of the play out of it and allows the fence to stay square but still move slightly.

Short of that you could make or buy a fine adjuster similar to this one from woodgears.ca.

Good luck, and enjoy your new saw!

-- --Jay

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unbob

719 posts in 1371 days


#4 posted 09-30-2016 08:37 PM

I have a Beismeyer fence on a Delta 12-14”. I can easily set the fence +- .001” Here is how, using a dial indicator on the fence- one hand on each side of the T square resting on the rail- with thumb pressure on both sides of the T square, the fence can be moved back an forth tiny amounts with light pressure on the fence lock. Set it to the indicator and lock it.

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MadMark

978 posts in 920 days


#5 posted 09-30-2016 08:51 PM

You expected something else? Try the Incra LS-III precision fence and an M1000 miter gauge – ask the man that owns one.

1/32” +-0.002” every time without bumping. It also has a ‘nudge’ adjustment in .001” steps.

It will take your skills up a level no matter how good you are !

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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Dick_Cheney

15 posts in 72 days


#6 posted 09-30-2016 09:15 PM

That thing is huge!, Where do you find room to place it when doing crosscuts for example ?

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jbay

819 posts in 367 days


#7 posted 09-30-2016 09:53 PM

Now, if you could only cut a 35 15/16 and a 59 15/16” piece out of a 96” long sheet. (1/8” kerf)

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

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Dick_Cheney

15 posts in 72 days


#8 posted 10-02-2016 02:55 PM

I probably did not explain the problem correctly. I have no trouble moving the fence 0.001. The difficulty comes when trying to replicate a piece. I move the fence so it presses lightly the original piece to the blade. It never works as the fence is not locked and is not square at this point. When I lock it it moves.

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JBrow

819 posts in 387 days


#9 posted 10-02-2016 03:38 PM

Dick_Cheney,

I have a PM table saw but from the photos the PCS fence systems look similar. Whenever I want to accurately set the fence to duplicate a width of cut, I have had consistent success by first moving the fence close to the wood resting again the blade. I then pull back firmly on each side of the fence to seat the fence against the front guide rail and thus square. The fence lock is fully disengaged. While keeping the fence firmly against the guide rail, I move the fence into position and lock it down. Since the fence is held firmly against the guide rail, it remains square when adjustments are made. This usually works on the first try, but sometimes I have to unlock the fence and, using this same procedure of pulling back on the fence, make the adjustment.

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Rick M

7935 posts in 1847 days


#10 posted 10-02-2016 10:44 PM



On mine, I get it close, lock, unlock, tap, lock.
- brtech

Ditto.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View jbay's profile

jbay

819 posts in 367 days


#11 posted 10-02-2016 11:03 PM


On mine, I get it close, lock, unlock, tap, lock.
- brtech

Ditto.

- Rick M.

What about this part? (“it also helps to knock in the middle of the fence rather than the end”)
You knock it in the middle also?

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

View MadMark's profile

MadMark

978 posts in 920 days


#12 posted 10-03-2016 01:40 AM



Now, if you could only cut a 35 15/16 and a 59 15/16” piece out of a 96” long sheet. (1/8” kerf)

- jbay

If you order the large 52” one, you can!

The T-arm does stick out to the right, but only when in use, you move it towards the blade when done. I also have a router insert on the right wing to share the fence and make two tools fit in one space.

It is an absolute improvement over any other sliding lock fence. Not opinion, truth.

If you cut one part 6” on the Incra and change & return the new part will be +-0.002 with no nudging.

Incra is easy to perfectly zero & rezero in moments.

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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jbay

819 posts in 367 days


#13 posted 10-03-2016 02:10 AM

In a real shop environment, I can cut 20 different size pieces, within tolerances close enough to build anything you can build, and you will only be on your 5th piece using your “dial-o-matic” fence. LOL

-- My “MO” involves Judging others, playing God, acting as LJs law enforcement, and never admitting any of my ideas could possibly be wrong or anyone else's idea could possibly be correct -- (A1Jim)

View Rick M's profile (online now)

Rick M

7935 posts in 1847 days


#14 posted 10-03-2016 02:18 AM

What about this part? (“it also helps to knock in the middle of the fence rather than the end”)
You knock it in the middle also?

- jbay

No, that’s why I didn’t quote it. I can also do it the same way you posted by pushing in but for me it’s just easier to slide it close, lock it to square it, loosen and check again.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1213 posts in 1578 days


#15 posted 10-03-2016 01:04 PM

In a real shop environment, I can cut 20 different size pieces, within tolerances close enough to
build anything you can build, and you will only be on your 5th piece using your “dial-o-matic” fence. LOL

Twice, I’ve seen Incra rip fences in pro shops. Both times, they had been removed from the saw, replaced with some version of Biesemeyer or Unifence, and were leaning against a wall.

I like Incra miter gauge heads, but my Incra stops and miter gauge rails have been on a shelf for over a decade, replaced by simple MDF or plywood fences on the Incra heads. If I could figure out a way to ship them safely at a reasonable price, I’d love to sell them.

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