Best Concrete Floor finish in shop

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Forum topic by CovenantCreations posted 06-24-2010 07:15 AM 12025 views 1 time favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View CovenantCreations's profile


127 posts in 2327 days

06-24-2010 07:15 AM

What do you have in your shop and how is it holding up? Looked at some of the concrete garage floor paint in walmart and was wondering if that would be worth doing all the prep work and moving everything around for. I would like to put something down, especially something that will make clean up a little easier. Thanks, – Covenant

25 replies so far

View Greedo's profile


470 posts in 2384 days

#1 posted 06-24-2010 12:50 PM

i have a polished concrete floor, it’s as slippery as marber but just as cold. cleans verry easy, but any oil, paint or whatever will leave a permanent stain.
it’s verry uncomfortable in the winter because the cold goes right up through my shoes and paralyses my feet, i need to put a carpet where i stand.

if cold is not a problem in your shop you could put down some epoxy, or another finish on it to make it smooth. a smooth floor is really the top in workshops, i suppose you now have a regular concrete floor that wasn’t polished or smoothed?
for my own shop i am concidering to put down a vinyl carpet with fake wood appearance, cheaper than real wood, softer on your back and feet.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2498 days

#2 posted 06-24-2010 01:58 PM

In my last shop I put down an epoxy paint over the concrete. Despite sprinkling on the flecks it was still too slippery. In one part of the shop it was dangerously slippery.

In my current shop I have raw concrete with no finish on it. I have mats at most of the places that I stand and that makes standing more comfortable.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View TheDane's profile


4939 posts in 3087 days

#3 posted 06-24-2010 02:01 PM

I did the epoxy with aluminum chips about 5 years ago. No problems … it sweeps easy, looks good, and isn’t dangerously slick. I have 1/2” thick rubber mats in front of the workbenches, and a couple that I throw down in front of the table saw.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View SnowyRiver's profile


51452 posts in 2904 days

#4 posted 06-24-2010 03:52 PM

I have the so called professional expoxy coating from Rustoleum. It has worked great. I painted it about 6 or 8 years ago and it still is in great shape. The key though is to prepare the floor correctly before applying.

They make a clear coat also if you would prefer not to have the gray painted look.

I dont have any fleck in it.

I wouldnt be without it. It makes sweeping and clean up (spilled glue etc) so much easier.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View mnguy's profile


183 posts in 2822 days

#5 posted 06-24-2010 04:11 PM

I used a latex enamel floor paint (Behr) in my basement shop. I did it mostly to lighten the space by reflecting more light vs. the bare concrete. It has excellent adhesion as long as water doesn’t stand on it. It sweeps up well, but boot scuffs, glue drips, etc. don’t clean off that readily. I haven’t found it slippery, and I didn’t add any chips or grit. If you have a dedicated shop space (no cars on it), I think a latex floor paint could be a decent choice, and easier to apply and a little cheaper than epoxy, and maybe a little less floor prep. I’m sure the epoxies hold up better, though, so they might be worth a little extra prep.

View BTKS's profile


1984 posts in 2888 days

#6 posted 06-24-2010 04:26 PM

I used a concrete sealer. The floor is smooth and sweeps real easy. So far any oil or staining fluids have come off with little effort. I have white paint over spray on some places right now and they seem to be wearing off on their own. I think the sealer can be purchased from about any concrete supplier. I think mine was around $70.00 for 5 gallons. I did two to three coats on 1800sq ft and it took about 8 gallons. I applied it over a year and a half ago and so far no peeling or wear where the truck is parked.
Hope this helps, BTKS

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

View tyskkvinna's profile


1310 posts in 2410 days

#7 posted 06-24-2010 04:29 PM

I have also used the Rustoleum Epoxy. I cannot suggest it enough. We use it in our workshop and I have personally applied more than 20,000 square feet of it. (yep.)

Definitely follow the directions. In fact.. (rummages around internet)

Here are instructions I wrote on how to do it and how to do it best. :)

(Disclosure: Rustoleum did donate the epoxy to us for use, but they didn’t pay us. I’m allowed to say it sucks if it did, but it’s awesome.)

-- Lis - Michigan - -

View CovenantCreations's profile


127 posts in 2327 days

#8 posted 06-25-2010 02:26 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I think Ill look into the rust oleum stuff. ANyone try just plain old clear thopson water sealer on their floors?

View SnowyRiver's profile


51452 posts in 2904 days

#9 posted 06-25-2010 03:24 PM

I have tried Thompson Waterseal on my sidewalks etc, but I wasnt too impressed with it…it didnt seem to last very long.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Rileysdad's profile


110 posts in 2702 days

#10 posted 06-25-2010 03:50 PM

I used the RustOleum stuff on the floor of my basement shop (the basement stuff, not the garage stuff.) The flakes didn’t stick to the floor very well. I ended up using a stiff bristle brush to get most of them off. Actually, I think that worked out for the best. It’s really easy to sweep and slipping is not a problem.

-- Measure twice, cut once, buy extra stock.

View 8iowa's profile


1540 posts in 3185 days

#11 posted 06-25-2010 04:30 PM

Preping an older concrete floor is difficult, often requiring grinding, but this is necessary if you are going to use one of the epoxy finishes.

When i built the “Workshop in the Woods” in ‘07 I applied three coats of Ace Hardware’s liquid wax, which effectively seals the pores and makes clean-up a breeze. It is surprisingly non-slippery and glue and varnish drips will not stick.

I have a lot of anti-fatgue mats and use them in my most often used work areas.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View Tim_456's profile


170 posts in 3019 days

#12 posted 06-25-2010 04:42 PM

Ditto on the Rustoleum. Flakes worked fine except in the area where my 5 year old just dumped a handful but the ones taht made it to the paint/epoxy stuck. I know there’s more chemicals involved but this goes down just like paint and doesn’t build up much of a finish. I say that because it won’t fill anything. If you have a small divot, this isn’t like epoxy in other arenas where it’ll fill that in. This covers, but does not fill.

Having said that, it works great. It sealed my concrete floor and is washable and allows dust to be controlled. This product probably deserves a review page with 5 stars ;)

View tyskkvinna's profile


1310 posts in 2410 days

#13 posted 06-25-2010 06:01 PM

The trick is to follow the instructions, precisely. If it’s too hot/cold, you wait too long, the flakes won’t stick.

Tim is also right in that it will not fill gaps. Use filler for that first.

-- Lis - Michigan - -

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2484 days

#14 posted 06-26-2010 12:26 AM

Stay away from products from walmart paint, Behr, olympic, valspar, any big box store paint. They are crap.
Go to Sherwin-Williams or Benjamin Moore.

View Canadian Woodworks's profile

Canadian Woodworks

702 posts in 2494 days

#15 posted 06-26-2010 01:42 AM

good info here, I think one of the best posts i’ve read, and I do creep a lot ….lol

-- Paul Lemiski, Ontario Canada, Custom Wooden Rocking chairs and tables

showing 1 through 15 of 25 replies

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