Need help with old dewalt RAS

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Forum topic by DirtyMike posted 09-27-2016 02:04 AM 186 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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383 posts in 320 days

09-27-2016 02:04 AM

Hello all , I bought a 1964ish dewalt 1500 203800 yesterday for a good deal. The motor is very slow to get to speed (5 seconds) and very weak when it does. I rewired all of the bad wiring and it is still the same. The wire to the capacitor are sodered to the post so i don’t know if i am getting accurate numbers while testing. There is very little info on this saw but i believe it is a variant of models before it. I am planning on rebuilding the motor completely before normal use but i would like to see the power she has before doing so. I also posted on the dewalt page on delphi forums. Any help would be much appreciated thanks

not my saw, but same model.

7 replies so far

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4028 posts in 1617 days

#1 posted 09-27-2016 02:31 AM

Not familiar with that motor – but it could be a few things. It would do as you describe if you are trying to run it on 120v and it’s wired for 240v. Slow start could also indicate a start capacitor problem, but it should not effect power at full speed. You have to take the capacitor out of circuit to test – otherwise you are going through the windings as well. If it has a centrifugal switch, that could be sticking as well, which would effect full speed operation, but not start up speed. Break out your meter :)


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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383 posts in 320 days

#2 posted 09-27-2016 02:54 AM

Thanks brad, I have considered that it was wired for 240 as it is showing all the signs of low juice. It does not have a centrifugal switch but rather a morse code tapper switch that turns off after top speed is achieved. For some reason electrical knowledge is the only that that doesn’t stick with me. I did notice that the morse code switch(real name would be much appreciated) has a 230v rating while the capacitor has a 110v rating. I have only found 1 wiring diagram for this saw and the wire colors do not match mine, which make me nervous to rewire the motor and switch. Considering the age of the saw would it be worth it to have a motor shop completely rebuild it? I hate to hire work out but im thinking about it. Video link and pictures coming soon.

here is the diagram i found online.

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978 posts in 131 days

#3 posted 09-27-2016 03:25 AM

MY old band saw (craftsman 12” ) had about the same problem so I checked ohms on start capacitor seemed just fine next thing I checked was contacts in motor sanded them a little works like brand new again or maybe they could help better at OWWM good luck to you


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383 posts in 320 days

#4 posted 09-27-2016 03:39 AM

and here is my wiring , its hard to tell but that is a yellow wire tied in with the red via wire nut. The wires on the morse tapper are brown, and there is no blue wire in sight. the white and black wires that are not connected are where my power in was connected.

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383 posts in 320 days

#5 posted 09-27-2016 04:55 AM

Guess if i knew what i was looking for i would have answered my own questions by now. After an hour digging online i found the correct diagram and model number. apparently everyone else that has this saw is very confused on model numbers. and since my motor cover plate was missing i couldn’t properly id the saw. I rewired it to 220v and that was what she needed. But the capacitor does have a 110 volt rating, what will happen running 220 through a 110 capacitor? I believe the 2 previous owners have been running this saw on 110 for years as the plug was 110.

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Fred Hargis

3841 posts in 1912 days

#6 posted 09-27-2016 10:57 AM

Nothing will happen, it’s as it should be. There is only 120V passes through the capacitor. My 1030 K (slightly larger saw) is wired the exact same way. That said, I have blown the capacitor (twice actually) so it can happen. You have a very good saw, should serve you well! Congrats. PS: mine was the same way when I bought it, the PO said the motor ran very slow and he couldn’t get it up to speed. But mine did have the blue wire isolated, so it was easy to see it was wired 240V. As for your saw being run on 120V in the past, it’s hard to imagine anyone getting anything done with it set up that way…more likely they just figured it was trashed and didn’t use it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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383 posts in 320 days

#7 posted 09-27-2016 02:29 PM

Thanks fred, I have a soft spot for old american made tools and was lucky to get this saw. It has been for sale for a month now for $50 dollars. I assume any potential buyer saw how weak the motor was and passed on it. The guy i bought it from has been running it on 110 for 20+ years. The 110 cord and plug looked like the original. He said he could only cut 1” softwoods or ply with it, When it tested it, it could barely cut a 2X4. Not having a clear model number was a curve ball, I was going off the placard on the base, which is not the same. It seems others have had this problem trying to Id this saw. Looks like dewalt Changed model numbers frequently for the same saws. I believe it is a 1501 from the 62 catalog. thanks again everyone.

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