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Shop Made Table Saw Fence Sides?

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Forum topic by Dave posted 06-21-2010 08:29 PM 2606 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dave

15 posts in 2809 days


06-21-2010 08:29 PM

I’m trying to get ideas on making my own fence slabs. A fellow Lumber Jock is kind enough to sell me a Jet Exacta table saw fence for a very reasonable price however one side is missing. Jet sells them for 90.00!

I can buy a fair amount of Formica and baltic birch for that kind of money. I’m just looking for ideas, maybe something with T tracks for feather boards.

I’m a newbe here, so I can use all the help and advise I can get.

Thank you,
David

-- David


9 replies so far

View Gary's profile

Gary

8968 posts in 2898 days


#1 posted 06-21-2010 08:33 PM

Hey David…I’m no help at all with your question B UT…you’ve been here 447 days and you are a NEWBE?

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View j_olsen's profile

j_olsen

155 posts in 2636 days


#2 posted 06-21-2010 08:40 PM

David
I was in the same boat as you—bought a Jet TS at an auction back in February that came with the Xacta (not the Xacta II)—called Jet and got the same price—the material is UHMW material—went to Amazon and got the material for around 18.00 each and will make my own
The stuff can be machined to add what you want
That may be an option for you

-- Jeff - Bell Buckle, TN

View Dave's profile

Dave

15 posts in 2809 days


#3 posted 06-21-2010 08:45 PM

Well kinda sort of. LOL. I’ve been reading, reading, reading. I come from a big box hardware store backround. I’ve done rehabs you name it.

Now that I’ve worn out my body and I’m disabled (chronic pain, lower back, legs and feet) I’ve been trying to put together a small woodworking shop in my basement. I figure it will give me something to do instead of sitting around going stir crazy and also give me something to look forward to. When the pain gets too much, I can go upstairs.

I’ve joined the Saint Louis Woodworkers Guild and Show Me Woodturners. both are a great bunch of folks. I don’t claim to know it all and am all ears.

NOW, The Million Dollar Question….. Is there a spell checker available on here?? Taint much of a speller. LOL!!!

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- David

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3113 days


#4 posted 06-21-2010 08:49 PM

I’ll second the UHMW material, it’s naturally sleek, and easy to work. you can shim it to flatten it on the fence.

good luck

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Dave's profile

Dave

15 posts in 2809 days


#5 posted 06-21-2010 08:50 PM

Jeff,

Thanks for the reply, I do have several pieces of UHMW. After talking to a few folks, they’re not sure it’s straight enough. Look at the Shop Fox fence, it has tons of fasteners. I’m not sure how Jet secures it because I don’t have the fence yet.

Just a thought, the main complaint against UHMW is that it’s wavey. I’ve thought about using heavy duty double stick tape with the cloth inside for holding it on there. Again, just a thought.

I guess I can try it and use my trusty dial indicator to see how bad it is.

Thanks again,
David

-- David

View GregD's profile

GregD

783 posts in 2601 days


#6 posted 06-21-2010 09:23 PM

I’ve wondered whether the phenolic faced plywood sold by Woodcraft and Rockler might work well for fence faces. The good thing about plywood – if its flat – is that its stiff. Otherwise being stiff might not be so helpful.

Formica on MDF seems like another option provided it is attached to something flat along its length. MDF being not so stiff, although Formica on both faces should stiffen it at least a bit. Formica isn’t exactly sticky. The other concern I have about Formica is getting a smooth coat of contact cement – the stuff is so thick I get a pretty rough coating out of it. After rolling the Formica I don’t notice any issue, but then I never check either.

For that matter I would think even decent melamine would work for a while.

BTW, my dial indicator says that my new SawStop fence face isn’t perfectly flat along its length. But I’m not disappointed with my rip cuts when I check them against my table top. I think the manual has something about adjusting this, but I haven’t been motivated to go back and check.

-- Greg D.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8254 posts in 2893 days


#7 posted 06-21-2010 10:17 PM

As far as material is concerned, cement supply houses carry a form material that is essentially a good ply that has a plastic(?) material laminated to both sides. I don’t know the thickness you need. They may not make it thin enough, but it’s worth investigating. It’s great for jigs and saw tables.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Dave's profile

Dave

15 posts in 2809 days


#8 posted 06-22-2010 02:18 AM

Greg, I drool every time I go to Woodcraft and see the new SawStop’s! Gene, do you know the name for it? I’ve googled it and can’t find anything.

Thank you all for your great ideas!!!!!

David

-- David

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3113 days


#9 posted 06-22-2010 02:26 AM

phenolic is another good option but more $$$ than UHMW. for what it’s worth – no material will be perfectly flat – thats why you have bolts holding the faces to the fences – on ALL T-Style fences – some are through bolts (shop fox) while others are embedded (HTC, Bies, PM, etc) but they all share the same design – bolts that you can shim in order to straighten the fence – in a way, I believe this is why the faces came about to begin with, as even steel fences are never perfectly flat.

Good luck

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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