How to keep table saw blades from getting too hot

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Forum topic by jordanmc posted 09-21-2016 04:39 PM 1172 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 762 days

09-21-2016 04:39 PM

First post here, but I am an avid reader of others posts. I repurpose skateboards, making them into cutting boards, coffee tables, stools, etc. In case your not familiar most skateboards are made out of hard rock maple.

I have a Delta 34-444 table saw, and I use Diablo blades (I am a hobbyist not a pro) but I dulled my last blade pretty quickly. When talking to my local woodworking shop he suggested I might have overheated the blade. There was one day where I ripped about 10 skateboards into 1” strips all in a row. Then I didn’t use my saw for a bit, and when I came back to it, that is when I noticed is was dull.

He also suggested I scrap the Delta and get a 5 hp Saw Stop, which I would love, but don’t have the cash for that, or the space. I was just curious if you have any suggestions on why my blade went dull so quick other than what he suggested, or how to keep the blade from over heating other than let it cool down between cuts. I know when working with metal you put oil on the blades or bits, but I have never done this with wood.

Thanks in advance!

10 replies so far

View JayT's profile (online now)


5893 posts in 2360 days

#1 posted 09-21-2016 04:51 PM

It would take a lot of heat to do anything to the carbide teeth on that Diablo blade. Tungsten carbide has such a high melting point, it is almost always worked by sintering (heating the powder and forcing it together under pressure). You can’t generate that kind of heat by cutting, so need to look elsewhere for the problem.

My first thought. Are you removing the finish from the skateboard before cutting them up? The really durable commercial finishes like found on pre-finished flooring, and very likely skateboards, contain aluminum oxide, which is incredibly hard and abrasive (it’s used on a lot of sandpaper). It will wear off the sharp edge very quickly. So would a fiberglass mat and resin.

Your Delta saw should be just fine for what you are doing. The guy at your woodworking store either is just trying to sell you something you don’t need (a 5HP saw is way overkill, the Sawstop feature you may want) or is just not really that knowledgeable. Overheating could possibly cause issues on a steel toothed blade, but not a carbide tipped one.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View muleskinner's profile


898 posts in 2586 days

#2 posted 09-21-2016 04:56 PM

LOL. Now that’s a salesman!

Customer: My blade gets dull.
Salesman: Oh, you need this $3500 saw.

Aren’t most skateboard decks covered with a layer of glass or epoxy finished? That might be the problem.

-- Visualize whirled peas

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Dan Krager

4165 posts in 2383 days

#3 posted 09-21-2016 05:15 PM

+1^^. Both comments are appropriate and informative. 3HP is PLENTY for a hand fed table saw. Keep your blade sharp by replacing as necessary. Given what you are cutting, I believe that nothing is going to prolong the blade life. You might do a little better with a different tooth configuration, but probably not enough better to be worth a lot of trouble.


-- Dan Krager, Olney IL You can allways find three nuts to secure the four bolts you need.

View MrRon's profile


5090 posts in 3393 days

#4 posted 09-21-2016 06:55 PM

I would not use a good blade to cut skate boards (too abrasive). Get some 7-1/4” contractor “throw away” blades. They are real cheap; around 5 bucks apiece. Look for them at your lumber yard contractor’s counter.

P.S. Find a new woodworking shop.

View MrUnix's profile


6949 posts in 2348 days

#5 posted 09-21-2016 07:05 PM

I was going to suggest the same thing as Ron did above – cheap circular saw blades. Heat should not be an issue, but the abrasive nature of the material being cut is. Trash the cheap blades and keep the expensive ones away from that stuff.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View jbay's profile (online now)


2681 posts in 1048 days

#6 posted 09-21-2016 07:12 PM

How many teeth on your blade? 24 tooth blade I recommend.
Other than that, keep them in the shade!

View HorizontalMike's profile


7770 posts in 3063 days

#7 posted 09-21-2016 07:15 PM

I keep several cans of this around and use about every 4-5 passes/cuts. Works very well on saw blades and even BETTER on large drill bits (think 3/4” dog-holes on a workbench).

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View jordanmc's profile


9 posts in 762 days

#8 posted 09-21-2016 09:38 PM

Wow thanks for the info, yeah the guy was totally trying to sell me a sawstop, but as a sales rep which is how I make my living, I totally didn’t mind, If I had the money I would own it already. I was using a 40 tooth blade previously, the one I wore out. The shop told me to try 24 tooth, so I went with that. So far so good, but I haven’t been ripping too much lately. So it is hard to if this one will have different results.

I like the cheap blade idea, I will pick some up next time I am out.

Thanks again!

View Woodknack's profile


12372 posts in 2529 days

#9 posted 09-21-2016 11:59 PM

I doubt any finish is going to dull a carbide blade that quickly. Maybe aluminum oxide if they use that on skateboards but I’m skeptical. 10 boards is not much use. Why don’t you contact Freud and see what they say.

-- Rick M,

View TravisH's profile


615 posts in 2084 days

#10 posted 09-22-2016 01:29 AM

The finish on skateboards isn’t that tough in my experience. Very thin cheap clear to no clear at all. Could smear the paint just messing around with a bare board on the carpet on some of the boards I had. The board manufactures have never been concerned about longevity as boards simply don’t last very long once you reach a certain level.

So looking at essentially cutting maple or birch plywood (PVA glue typically used).

You are removing the grip tape….

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