S3S vs RGH

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Forum topic by Shay posted 12-31-2007 05:34 PM 2738 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Shay's profile


59 posts in 4036 days

12-31-2007 05:34 PM

I recently decided to stop wasting money on s4s and try to save some by going to rough cut. What I’m wondering is if I should go with S3S or RGH. I’m planning on buying a planer but I have no joiner so I’d have to table saw the edges with a jig if I got RGH. It seems RGH is quite a bit cheaper, almost 1/2 at some places, over s3s.. so is it worth the extra time and saw blades?

If so, anyone recommend some plans for a jig? I have a Jet JWSS-10lfr SuperSaw which I really like, and it includes a gliding table.


-- Centerville, MN - Hobbyist and DIYer

14 replies so far

View Karson's profile


35152 posts in 4635 days

#1 posted 12-31-2007 06:00 PM

I get all of my lumber directly from the sawmill. I’ve let all of my wood age at home because it’s still quite green and wet when I get it.

Jigs are easy, there should be a few on this site and also on the internet. It’s a regular straight board or plywood with a couple of clamps to hold the board tight as you run it through the saw. Most boards you buy don’t have wain though, they are usually straight sided.

Since you don’t have a jointer, cut your parts oversize and then plain them easily to try to flatten them. You can also get a piece of plywood that you run through the planer with your board attached to it with double faced tape and shims underneath the board to lay it flat. Cut easily and when you get one semi-flat side take it off the carrier board and run the flat side down and plane up the other side.

Not as easy as with a jointer but doable.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia †

View rikkor's profile


11295 posts in 4109 days

#2 posted 12-31-2007 06:21 PM

Hey BN, I see you are from Centerville. There used to be a sawmill on the west side of Hwy 65, just south of Coopers Corners. Do you know if the guy is still there? I think it was called Sylvester’s.

View Shay's profile


59 posts in 4036 days

#3 posted 01-02-2008 04:45 AM

Not sure Rikkor, I’ll look into it.

-- Centerville, MN - Hobbyist and DIYer

View DocK16's profile


1184 posts in 4322 days

#4 posted 01-02-2008 04:56 AM

Still going to need a jointer, it isessential to mill your rough lumber flat and square, a planer won’t make your wood truly flat.

-- Common sense is so rare anymore when you do see it, it looks like pure genius.

View Jamie's profile


161 posts in 4049 days

#5 posted 01-02-2008 05:24 AM

Dock, You have my curiosity going.. I have both a planer and jointer. They both work pretty much the same except that the cutter for the planer is above the bed, and the jointer’s is below the bed. Of course each has a specific role in woodworking. Why would a jointer make your wood truely flat, but not a planer?

-- Jamie, Kentucky

View Chip's profile


1904 posts in 4327 days

#6 posted 01-02-2008 05:37 AM

The planer forces your board flat when running it through. Therefore, when it comes out the other side it’s cleanly planed but will still have a bow or twist that will spring back. You can run it through repeatedly after flipping it each time as Karson says but even this won’t take out all of the bow and in my opinion wastes a lot of good wood.

Before I got my jointer I would run it through the planer on a sled as Karson suggets but you have to shim the high spots (I used playing cards) so the planer rollers can’t force the board down. Once that side is good and flat, flip it over and run it through and you’re ready to go.

(did I explain that correctly guys and gals?)

-- Better to say nothing and be thought the fool... then to speak and erase all doubt!

View lclashley's profile


244 posts in 4349 days

#7 posted 01-02-2008 06:42 AM

Chip is right…a planer makes the top co-planer to the bottom, twist and all.

View Jamie's profile


161 posts in 4049 days

#8 posted 01-02-2008 05:20 PM

Yeah.. I guess I was thinking in a perfect world where everything is straight and not bowed.. Thanks guys. I guess I had a brain fart :)

-- Jamie, Kentucky

View MsDebbieP's profile


18618 posts in 4395 days

#9 posted 01-02-2008 05:40 PM

learn something new every day.

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (, Young Living Wellness )

View mot's profile


4922 posts in 4271 days

#10 posted 01-02-2008 05:54 PM

Somebody should fire up their video camera and do a Cyber Skill Share on using jointer, planer, tablesaw combo to dimension lumber. The old adage with the planer is, “Banana in – banana out.” Jointing a face, then jointing an edge square to that face, then planing the other face coplanar to the original jointed face, then ripping the final edge square to each face and coplanar to the other edge. Tada! It’s actually a pretty fun part of woodworking and saves you some cash.

We have a pretty good source of S2S here. If you can find them 15/16ths or better for 4/4, you have some room to dimension them. Watch out for the monkeys flogging 13/16ths as 4/4. If it’s not REALLY close to being flat on a face, then you can’t get 3/4 out of it. Just some stuff to keep in mind.


-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View Shay's profile


59 posts in 4036 days

#11 posted 01-02-2008 07:24 PM

So do you guys usually work with ~6” wide pieces only? or do you get a bigger jointer.

-- Centerville, MN - Hobbyist and DIYer

View Chip's profile


1904 posts in 4327 days

#12 posted 01-02-2008 08:56 PM

On wider boards I still use the planer with the sled (I have a Dewalt 13” with infeed and outfeed tables) and have been fairly happy. Don’t forget the shims though.

-- Better to say nothing and be thought the fool... then to speak and erase all doubt!

View Critterman's profile


601 posts in 4045 days

#13 posted 01-02-2008 10:22 PM

The FWW site they have a great quick video on a planner sled: you may need membership to get to the video, but you can try. And another on squaring up lumber (This one I liked) again might need the membership though, only about $15.00/yr I’ve got my money’s worth out of it. If you can get there, these will definitely help understand the process and the whys to go with it.

-- Jim Hallada, Chesterfield, VA

View motthunter's profile


2141 posts in 4034 days

#14 posted 01-03-2008 04:27 AM

you also can set up parallel metal rails and a jig to hold the board and then make a router jig to flatten a board. It is a lot of work and time consuming but it can substitute for a jointer in a pinch. I have an 8” jointer and love it. When I get wider boards than 8” I take them to local mill and ask them to help me out to flatten the surface. I would have troubles if I had only a 6” unit. You have to consider what kind of work you plan to do before you buy though. If you don’t see a future need for 8”, don’t waste the extra money. I keep my eyes open at all the machine salvage companies to get a used larger jointer to rebuild, but I have not had any luck so far.

-- making sawdust....

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