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Any idea how to cut recess

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Forum topic by Warren posted 06-18-2010 12:12 PM 2897 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Warren

57 posts in 2744 days


06-18-2010 12:12 PM

Chaps, I am been asked to make a reproduction of the table shown here and I am at a bit of a loss on how to cut the recess shown on the rails. I know there is a simple method of doing it but have got a complete brain freeze on the topic.

Could someone put me out of my misery please?

Thanks

Table

-- Im more succesfull at making sawdust than I am at making furniture


24 replies so far

View Moron's profile

Moron

5032 posts in 3358 days


#1 posted 06-18-2010 12:40 PM

a 45 degree chamfer router bit (although I doubt they make one that big) and a bearing? or fence. I have a shaper but that is big enough. Hang on for dear life and make sure you have a lead line on the start and finish (means the piece is longer then you need). probably multiple passes as well.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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Warren

57 posts in 2744 days


#2 posted 06-18-2010 12:48 PM

I have a spindle moulder so any tooling that could cut it is an option, its the arc that has me thrown really. I hate pushing a piece of wood onto the moulder, no matter how many times I do it with every safety precaution I can come up it is scares the bejezus out of me!

-- Im more succesfull at making sawdust than I am at making furniture

View BroDave's profile

BroDave

107 posts in 3279 days


#3 posted 06-18-2010 01:08 PM

”a router with a large core box bit.”

This, but I would cut both side pieces at the same time while they were still one piece of wood,
Then cut it in half.

-- .

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Don Butler

1086 posts in 2860 days


#4 posted 06-18-2010 01:17 PM

Spindle moulders (shapers) scare me, too!

d

-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

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Moron

5032 posts in 3358 days


#5 posted 06-18-2010 01:30 PM

the shaper is about the only tool that still makes my heart pound but thats why you need a long lead and a long tail. By placing a pin (most shapers have several threaded holes in the bed to screw in pins) so that you use the pin as a place to carefully and slowly put the piece to shaping bit with bearing.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3589 days


#6 posted 06-18-2010 07:47 PM

I’m with BroDave. I’d do it on my router table, big ol’ bullnose or core box type bit, with stops on the fence to limit it to the leg length. In fact, I think I’d leave room on either end, and cut that down to the leg width plus the length of the recess cut later, because I have to be less accurate about the length of the recess cut then. But I think that’s a matter of which cut you think you can make more accurately.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3113 days


#7 posted 06-18-2010 08:03 PM

this looks like ~4” legs? judging from what I haven’t seen any router bit that size (core box bit would have to have a 4” diameter to accomodate for the ~2” cove cut.

the only ways I know of to make such a molding cut is either a shaper, or a TS, but because of the stopped cuts I would have to say it was done with a shaper as I wouldn’t take my chances with the TS setup for stopped cuts.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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uffitze

199 posts in 2419 days


#8 posted 06-18-2010 08:09 PM

Seems to me the easiest way would be on a bandsaw and then clean it up with hand tools or a spindle sander.

(Probably would want a sled to hold the workpiece at 45 degrees.)

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3589 days


#9 posted 06-18-2010 08:23 PM

If those are 4” legs, then the recess is only like 1” or 1½” radius. I’m sure Whiteside sells a bit that’ll do that.

If you can’t get a router or shaper bit that size, how about building a jig to cut that with a small blade in something like an angle grinder? My first thought was the way you do a cove cut with a diagonal pass across a table saw or with a circular saw, but that wouldn’t get the end shape right. However, someone’s got to make a blade that’d do the right thing that’d fit in a 4” angle grinder.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3113 days


#10 posted 06-18-2010 08:26 PM

I stand corrected Dan. the bit should be ~2” in diameter, so that makes it a bit more reasonable to find

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2470 days


#11 posted 06-18-2010 08:57 PM

I have in the past done larger coves on the tablesaw by carefully guiding the workpiece across the face of the sawblade and then raising it up a bit at a time to increase the depth of the cove. The final product needs scraping and sanding to get the lines out but it works. The only hard part on that application would be the gradual start and stop of the shape.

Maybe you could get a Cove raised panel bit from mcls or other manufacturer, with a bearing or rub collar that would do the trick and not cost an arm and leg.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3589 days


#12 posted 06-18-2010 09:02 PM

Still be a scary bit to wield, it’d take me a bunch of passes to cut the cove that deep…

Looks like Whiteside’s #1417 is a 1” radius core box bit. I’m looking for something with less of a circular profile, but Whiteside’s “classic round bottom” link isn’t giving me anything, and I’m reminded of why I had a paper catalog: their website sucks.

Amana has a H45948-CNC, but they have a warning about using it in CNC machines only. I’d risk it, but only if the piece was well restrained and I was taking off very small bits at a time (and, yes, my garage door does have a dent in it where I got bit rotation wrong once and saw high speed kickback in action. I keep meaning to do that again with video running as a cautionary tale…). In a router table with stops on the fence, and a stop outside of the fence, I think this’d could be a safe cut even with a bit that large.

I was hoping for something like the Amana bowl and tray bits in a wider diameter, but don’t see one.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2470 days


#13 posted 06-18-2010 10:15 PM

Here’s a shaper cutter that might work.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View Eli's profile

Eli

141 posts in 2471 days


#14 posted 06-18-2010 10:38 PM

Carve it!

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BroDave

107 posts in 3279 days


#15 posted 06-19-2010 12:16 AM

Folks, it isn’t a 45* cut. It is hollowed, like a core box bit, shaper or table saw would produce.

I really don’t think that you could reproduce that on a table saw( too small of a radius) so the OP is left with core box or a shaper

-- .

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