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Forum topic by deucefour posted 06-16-2010 08:43 PM 1203 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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deucefour

285 posts in 2720 days


06-16-2010 08:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer planer milling

I am sure that there is an obvious answer to this but would someone please help me understand something, I used my 6” jointer to plane both faces of a board, I ended up with a wedge shaped board, I do not own a planer yet so that was not an option. I also would appreciate someone telling me the correct milling process to end up with square stock. thanks in advance for any help

robert


12 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile (online now)

Gene Howe

8260 posts in 2895 days


#1 posted 06-16-2010 08:51 PM

Sorry, but ya can’t do it with a jointer.
Got a router and a good sized straight plunge bit?
You can rig up a sled and rails and plane it fairly well with a router mounted on a temp. base to span the rails.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

452 posts in 2471 days


#2 posted 06-16-2010 09:02 PM

A jointer will make a board’s face flat, but it has no reference to the other face so if you do what you did you have two flat faces but they aren’t parallel. 6” jointer so the board must be 6” wide or less. Raise up the Table Saw blade, make sure it is parallel (not tilted) to the TS Fence and rip trim off the other face in two passes. You might end up with a ridge down the middle where the blade can’t reach, get out the handplane and take that down.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

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Cher

942 posts in 2560 days


#3 posted 06-16-2010 09:02 PM

Try this link.

http://lumberjocks.com/patron/blog/14330

-- When you know better you do better.

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swirt

2118 posts in 2438 days


#4 posted 06-16-2010 09:13 PM

The basic method: Joint two adjacent edges, then thickness plane the other two. (Same is true whether using hand planes or the powered variety). As Gene said, you can’t really get to where you want to be with just a jointer. There are ways to do it with just a thickness planer, but not so much the other way around.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3043 days


#5 posted 06-16-2010 09:23 PM

If a board is 6” or less you can joint one face and two edges put the the jointed face against your table saw fence and set it so the board is just will be barley cutting the thickness of the board, set the table saw blade a little more than half way up the non jointed face of the board. After the first pass on the table saw flip the board over and run through the table saw again with the jointed side still against the fence . Now the other side is parallel with the jointed face . To clean up the the sawed face joint it. It may be necessary to make a taller extension to you table saw fence to properly use this technique. It is also important not get you hands to close to the table saw blade by using a pair of push sticks if possible or a dedicated sled to slide across the top of you table saw fence. during this operation is very important to keep your material at 90 degrees to the table saw blade,

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Gene Howe's profile (online now)

Gene Howe

8260 posts in 2895 days


#6 posted 06-16-2010 10:36 PM

I like that idea, Jim.

How about one of those “Safety Planers” for the drill press. Safety Planer

Or, better yet, get a real planer!

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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Sarit

514 posts in 2606 days


#7 posted 06-16-2010 11:05 PM

If you have a bandsaw adjusted for drift, then you can resaw it with the jointed face against the fence.

If you use Jim’s idea, I would definitely make a sled that rides over the fence and clamp the board to it. Its very difficult to do that operation using only push sticks.

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3111 posts in 2400 days


#8 posted 06-16-2010 11:16 PM

If the jointer can not get the 2 sides parallel to each other than perhaps the hand plane could not do it either…

I am making a fool of myself or am I right?

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

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bayspt

292 posts in 3171 days


#9 posted 06-16-2010 11:29 PM

With the Jointer you are taking the entire face at once. With the hand plane you are taking however much you decide. thus you can take the high spots down and work to a line that is an even thickness from the other face. There are options, but passing each face over the jointer just isn’t one of them that I know of.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

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lanwater

3111 posts in 2400 days


#10 posted 06-17-2010 12:09 AM

It makes sense,

Thanks!

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View deucefour's profile

deucefour

285 posts in 2720 days


#11 posted 06-20-2010 07:22 AM

Got it, thanks for your help everyone, I will be getting a real planer soon but I just did not understand why it did not work the way I thought it would.

Robert

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lanwater

3111 posts in 2400 days


#12 posted 06-25-2010 08:31 PM

Planer you say?

Dewalt dw735, It’s a great planer. The built in fan to blow out the chip is very powerfull.
I get very clean smooth surface.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

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