LumberJocks

Fixing a sniped cutting board

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by lennyk posted 09-09-2016 12:12 AM 473 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View lennyk's profile

lennyk

30 posts in 298 days


09-09-2016 12:12 AM

I recently glued up strips for making an end grain cutting board.
Ran them through my dw735 planer and unfortunate due to the shortish length of the board got some snipe,
Prob .25mm
However I didn’t notice it and flipped the board over and ran the other side through only to get the same snipe
Now on the other side, same end,

So now the glued up lengthways board has snipe on the same end, both sides.
I suspect if I try to run it through again and do very light passes it make rock on the sniped section and repeat itself.
Unfortunately the board is pretty much the max width of the planer so cannot glue strips to the side.

My planers side tables have the slight up setting so I don’t usually get snipe with linger boards.

Any suggestions ? I am going to put some blobs of glue to act as a filler on the low area and see if it helps.


13 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4035 posts in 1817 days


#1 posted 09-09-2016 01:03 AM

Use the part of the board that doesn’t have snipe to cut your end grain strips from. If that doesn’t yield enough material for your board, then make up a new board and cut strips from it. Consider the sniped portion waste. You’re lucky that the snipes are on the same end.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13506 posts in 1322 days


#2 posted 09-09-2016 01:42 AM

You can use the thinner portion for the end grain board. Just don’t use the part where it steps down. The difference in thickness won’t be noticeable when you flip the pieces and reglue.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

819 posts in 386 days


#3 posted 09-09-2016 02:26 AM

lennyk,

My comment goes to avoiding planer snipe rather than how to fix the existing problem. I defer to bondogaposis and firefighterontheside regarding fixing the current problem.

I have had success in controlling planer snipe by running a short sacrificial piece through the planer first. As the sacrificial board disappears from view, the first work piece is butted against the end of the disappearing sacrificial board. Just as the first work piece disappears from view, the second work piece is end butted to the first work piece and so on. When the last work piece is just disappearing from view, the sacrificial board is end butted against the last work piece. This method seems to trick the planer into thinking one really long board is being planed, resulting in minimal to no snipe, except on the sacrificial board.

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

3338 posts in 3362 days


#4 posted 09-09-2016 02:45 AM

Lenny – I agree with JBrow – I call the technique “chasing”. it works very well when you can’t add the sacrificial pieces to the sides of your workpiece.

As for the current issue – cut your slices from the “un-sniped” end. When you get to the snipe – clearly mark the last few slices that have the snipe and position two of those slices one on each end of the board with the snipe facing out. When you finish the board just lightly shave the snipe off at the table saw. if you shave the same amount from both ends no one will think anything of it.

Good luck

-- "Our past judges our present." JFK - 1962; American Heritage Magazine

View lennyk's profile

lennyk

30 posts in 298 days


#5 posted 09-09-2016 09:19 AM

Ok, will test out the chasing technique.
I guess I can still fix the boards by using by using my router planing sled setup if need be.

View ellen35's profile

ellen35

2724 posts in 2898 days


#6 posted 09-09-2016 10:52 AM

If you have a drum sander, use that to level the board. Works for me.

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3024 posts in 1263 days


#7 posted 09-09-2016 11:55 AM

PSA: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/end-grain-through-the-planer/

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View moke's profile

moke

861 posts in 2242 days


#8 posted 09-09-2016 05:57 PM

I highly advise reading the article that CharlesA posted…...I have a scar on my hand where my planer spit out the board at Mach 2 back at me and my hand was in the way. I was lucky it did not break my hand.

You can fix that. If you do not have drum sander available to you, use a belt sander. Wedge the board down flat some how, and sand “side ways” with the belt sander, lightly…...then finish with a ROS. You can check for flatness by using a metal ruler on end, across it. Get down to the level of the board and look for light showing through between the ruller and the cutting board, mark those areas that need work with a pencil, and repeat…....yes it is labor intensive, but you get to keep all your appendages. No where does it say the board has to be dead flat…you are using it to cut meat on!!!!

Like great wood worker on this site once said:
Write it down….I will never use a planer on end grain anything…now write it another 99 times!!!!

Mike

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

628 posts in 1418 days


#9 posted 09-09-2016 06:14 PM

I agree with the “do not plane end grain broads” and have posted on it.

However, I think what the OP was saying is that he had made the FIRST glue up and was planing the piece with the long grain to prepare it for slicing off the individual pieces for the second glue up.

View moke's profile

moke

861 posts in 2242 days


#10 posted 09-09-2016 06:27 PM

ok, thanks for clarifying kazooman….I misread…
Sorry

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

628 posts in 1418 days


#11 posted 09-09-2016 07:23 PM


ok, thanks for clarifying kazooman….I misread…
Sorry

- moke

Moke, You might not have misread,the OP really isn’t crystal clear on the matter. I am assuming his initial glue up was long grain, as usual, but perhaps he has a different technique. Good to remind everyone about the potential dangers of running an end grain board through the planer.

View lennyk's profile

lennyk

30 posts in 298 days


#12 posted 09-09-2016 09:25 PM

Yes, this is the first glue up of the edge grain strips.
I can get a couple strips from the sniped section so it is no problem.

I guess i should have tested my planer to see at what short lengths it will start to snipe and presumably it snipes on the trailing end.

Have read and seen the dangers of end grain planing long before I got the dw735.

View lennyk's profile

lennyk

30 posts in 298 days


#13 posted 09-09-2016 10:33 PM

Good news is I planed them over just slightly and got them pretty much fixed
Took off small amounts like 1/8 turn of the dw735 at a time and held the board as it was coming out with a slight upwards bias.
Was also able to see that my out feed tables weren’t exactly parallel with the main center table.
Probably shifted as I never checked them since setting them with the the penny trick.
Can see on the right board where the sniped section was.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com