Millers Falls No. 1
An incredibly recent addition to the shop, the MF “Cigar Shave” is a unique tool with a mixed reputation when it comes to performing well. This forum is for future reference; a place to index sites, sources and methodologiea that help owners of the tool get the most out of it. Here, for example, is a terrific article on sharpening the No. 1, followed by an introductory artictle posted by Lee Valley with patent details:
Boatman53 (Jim) created a jig for use with the venerable Eclipse:
Michael Brady described such a jig in 2011 on Wood Central:
Actually, you can put the cutter from a MF #1 shave into an Eclipse jig, but you need to make a simple fixture to do it. This is my original design: I used a scrap of oak 1/2” thick and 3”x4”, with the 3” wide end grain rounded over so that it is similar to the metal section of the shave in profile. I placed two flat head screws in the rounded section of the wood at the same spacing as the screws that hold the cutter in the shave. What you have now is a way to hold the cutter on the rounded-over end of the wood block much the way it is held in the shave. This wood block is then inserted into the upper jaws of the Elipse jig. You can adjust the block or the cutter until the flat of the bevel aligns with the sharpening stone. Go through your regular schedule of grits. I went all the way through 8000 grit on mine. As said in this thread, you have to sharpen the whole bevel…no microbevel…or the shave will not stay in the cut due to its very small radius.
I would say that my #1 shave is as easy to use as any small radiused shave I have used. The steel in that cutter is very nice quality.
Here’s a discussion on WoodCentral where David Charlesworth cautions against entirely removing the interior bevel:
Kelly Tool Works produced a cigar shave in the 1990s (?) and offered the following sharpening instructions with their tool (thanks to the Wayback Machine for this):
Have a cigar shave? How’s it working? How did you tune it? Share pics and stories below!
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