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Best way to quickly knock down heavy rust?

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Forum topic by Vrtigo1 posted 06-11-2010 10:21 PM 1138 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vrtigo1

434 posts in 2453 days


06-11-2010 10:21 PM

A friend of mine inherited an old cabinet saw that’s in good condition, except it looks like the previous owner hasn’t done any table maintenance in years. The table is almost black from a combination of rust and being generally dirty. I’ve tried scrubbing with a normal dish sponge, but at that rate I think it’d take me 10 hours. What’s the best thing to use to get it cleaned up to a manageable level? I know they make hard scrubber pads that you can chuck in a drill, but I’m not sure if that would damage the table. The kind I’ve seen at HD seem like they’re significantly harder than a sponge material. Is there something else I should look for?


9 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3110 days


#1 posted 06-11-2010 10:27 PM

1. there are some chemical products out there that you could wipe/spray on, let it do it’s thing, and wipe off with the rust.

2. you could slap on a green scotchbrite to a hook-n-loop type sander and use that to speed things up – make sure you have good DC going on cause it’s gonna be metal-dusty.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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dbhost

5604 posts in 2694 days


#2 posted 06-11-2010 10:34 PM

If it’s not pitted, try “Evaporust”. Harbor Freight among others sells the stuff.

WD-40 and a green scotch brite pad CAN work okay…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#3 posted 06-11-2010 11:37 PM

I use a method similar to #2 of Sharon’s post with rubbing compound

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Howie

2656 posts in 2385 days


#4 posted 06-11-2010 11:46 PM

What kind of top does it have? Steel or cast iron?
The sander and scotch pad works really good. Keep some WD40 or light oil on the top and sand away. After you are done give it a good coat of wax(I use Johnsons Floor Wax)
IF you use Evaporust or something similiar make sure you clean it off before it drys.

-- Life is good.

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flowchart_jockey

37 posts in 2538 days


#5 posted 06-12-2010 12:01 AM

I used a wire wheel chucked into my hand drill to take off a healthy coat of rust on my TS when I first got it. Worked like a charm. I also swear by a product called PB Blaster for removing rust from bolts. It cleans really well, but does leave a thin film.

-- Why make it easy when you can make it difficult?

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swirt

2117 posts in 2434 days


#6 posted 06-12-2010 12:29 AM

Iif the rust is also mixed with crud and dust and old oil gum, use a razor blade scraper. Wet the top with wd40 or mineral spirits and then scrape from one side to the other. I use this method on old hand saws and it gets removes a lot of the rust flakes and other crap… then spray it again with WD40 or mineral spirits and scrape again. Repeat as long as there is still crud coming up with the scraper. Then use evaporust, then follow with wed dry sand paper on a flat block.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2593 days


#7 posted 06-12-2010 04:01 AM

220 grit sandpaper on a random orbit sander.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

View djwong's profile

djwong

167 posts in 2681 days


#8 posted 06-12-2010 04:32 AM

When I rehabilitated a rusty jointer table, I found using a razor blade to scrape off the rust was effective. This allowed the chemicals to work more quickly. When using razor blades, be careful not to dig the corners into the table. I generally used the razor blade pulling towards me for better control.

-- David W. Cupertino, CA

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

1113 posts in 2406 days


#9 posted 06-13-2010 01:35 AM

Check out the following post for some other ideas on rust removal:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/17809#reply-184293

I’ve used RustFree and a few other products over the years. For the farm, we buy the rust neutralizer by the gallon. The rustier the surface, the more reaction I get with the rust neutralizing acid, black being the result when the amount of rust in significant. Unlike farm equipment, looks are half the game with woodworking equipment. Accordingly, I try to remove all the rust and, if practical, any pitting. For a protective coat, I, currently, am staying with Corrosion X (not the heavy duty stuff, which is remains sticky).

http://corrosionxproducts.com/?gclid=CPOLoKLbm6ICFRYBiQod612Dxw

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