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Miter Saw Fence

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Forum topic by Beeguy posted 06-11-2010 08:24 PM 4936 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Beeguy

178 posts in 3103 days


06-11-2010 08:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw fence miter saw

I have a 10” sliding compound miter saw. I use it for almost all of my crosscuts. I have read in a few places recommendations of adding a wooden fence to the back. It prevents tear out at the edge and also makes cut line up easy. (My saw does not have a laser. I bought one for it but never got around to installing it. I probably should.) Anyway, when I installed the fence it did what others said it would do, but I could not tolerate all the sawdust bouncing back at me. After a few cuts I took it off. Does the saw being a slider add to the problem or is that just one of the drawbacks to the fence. Or am I doing something wrong. It seemed like a good idea, but I don’t think it outweighs the side effects.

-- Ron, Kutztown, PA "The reward is in the journey."


7 replies so far

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pmayer

864 posts in 2532 days


#1 posted 06-11-2010 09:45 PM

I have never had a problem with tearout on my SCMS. If you use a good quality MS blade that is sharp, and take your time through the cut, it shouldn’t be necessary IMO.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

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Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3288 days


#2 posted 06-11-2010 11:09 PM

I generally put an auxillary fence on my slider. I don’t have a problem with tearout since I use a quality blade that is sharp but I just like the support that a fence gives to pieces being cut on the saw that do not span both sides of the fence. With a fence I don’t notice any difference in the sawdust but it does help with cutting smaller pieces. My slider has a 6” gap between the stock fences. Without the auxillary fence I have also seen movement in end of moldings which are unsupported from the pressure of the saw that can throw off miter cuts.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3043 days


#3 posted 06-11-2010 11:31 PM

I echo Scott’s comments

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Beeguy

178 posts in 3103 days


#4 posted 06-12-2010 12:04 AM

Thanks guys,

I do have a good blade and I agree it gives more support for small parts. How high is your fence? I think I was using a 4 or 5” inch board. There was no magic, it was just what I had laying around when I was trying it. But as I recall the sawdust bounced back and it felt like little stone chips hitting me. So it was sending it back with some force. (I never thought of myself as a wimp. I work my bees in a short sleeve shirt and getting stung 15 or 20 times is never a problem.)

How wide is your opening, do you have something like a V cut into it that would allow the spray to pass ?through?

Thanks again.

-- Ron, Kutztown, PA "The reward is in the journey."

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pmayer

864 posts in 2532 days


#5 posted 06-12-2010 02:08 PM

I don’t think this is what you are referring to, but when cutting small parts I do sometimes add a simple temporary auxiliary base/fence so to better support the piece. But the fence height is only 3/4” (It is essentially a 3/4” x 2” x 20” board attached to the top of a 3/4” x 4” x 20” board). I don’t use this to prevent tearout, but rather to keep a small piece of trim from flying into the dust chute. It doesn’t cause any dust problems because it is low enough that the dust mostly rolls over the top of it, and when I am using it the pieces are so small that they are not generating much dust to begin with.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

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ElmoSr

241 posts in 2493 days


#6 posted 06-12-2010 03:14 PM

Hey Guys my main problem with a miter fence is that i have to take it off if i need to make an angle cut where i tilt the head over

-- ElmoSr,Ga. Life is Hard by the Yard,,,But a Cinch by the Inch

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4541 posts in 2541 days


#7 posted 06-12-2010 03:26 PM

My SCMS (Makita) has a very low regular fence. I attach a wooden fence to make it taller. I use 1/2” stock because I don’t want to give up anymore sliding capacity than I have to.

I see no need to bring this fence right up to the blade. I leave a relatively wide V-shaped gap in the fence at the blade. I also shape the fence such that it won’t interfere with the motor housing. I can leave this fence in place for virtually any cut I do.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

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